Stewart
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Posts posted by Stewart
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thanks Kev I got that one, but was trying to just use a picture so I don't have to use valuable time with a video, even though I could just show the last 20sec. I did find this one thats pretty good.
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Anybody have any or know where to get some pics of whippers?
I have a Power Point Presentation due for my class and My Teacher wants me to include a 2 minute explanation of how I broke my leg via whipper.
Thanks
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Hospitals have nice Teli's! Considering an upgrade at home while I'm here for the next few months.
I've been shootin guns with my soon to be father in law. He's got my favorite's. 30.30 Winchester and a Dirty Harry .357 all shiny and what not. Also has a couple classic 6 shooters. I'm not much of a gun guy, but there's something spiritual about your reflection in a .357 magnum.
Stewart
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Was at the Drop-Zone Proper Wall and took a 15ft fall. I was aid climbing and had a zipper not too far off the deck. I hit a ledge and broke my fib/tib of the same leg I broke under 2yrs ago. This time a little bit worse, my foot was dangling loose below my leg. Embarassing, I know! I lowered myself down to the ground and began constructing a make-shift splint for my leg. After I realize I wasn't going to be able to hike out, we called 911. SAR is great! They bring you morphine when your in a pinch and as far as I could tell I could have as much as I wanted. They were all stoked to see the rock wall as well as interested in the climbing we were doing. They all had climbing experience.
At the hospital the Doc lifted up my kneecap, drilled out the marrow, and hammered in a 10mm diameter titanium rod down the length of my bone. He say's it will be real hard to break in the future! Lucky me! On to the right leg!
I'd like to say I learned something, but I'm not so sure. Maybe next time I'll bolt the crack.
The injury wasn't as bad as you might think. However, in the hospital I learned that I have a high tolorance for pain and not a high tolorance to the drugs they were giving me. The drip with the button to press is pretty cool. They kept asking me what my pain was on a scale of 1 to 10. I would say 5. Then they would ask why I wasn't hitting the morphine button. I would reply that "I wasn't interested in sleeping anymore and 5 isn't that bad, is it? Plus there's a basketball game on tonight."
PEACE OUT BUDDHA OR WHOEVER!
Stewart
Ryan Sund on BooCoux (5.9)
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I think its great that someone free'd it. I don't reserve ground up climbs, just thought a belay partner gives respect and at least lets the climber know when its been free'd. I know I've called you several times to tell you that I free'd one of your new route's. I hold great value in my climbs. Maybe to you it didn't mean anything, just another day of climbing. I would think of it as an exciting event to free an aid climb. Even if it was just 10d. and only 30ft tall. Just throw me a line yo. As for my future climbing, ground-up bitches! "Je'mapeljonphillip"
"Open door" is a retarded one-eyed drunken shamen indian from the midwest. His original name was "loud noise" because of his ability to fart at will. He later became the respected shamen of one of the badest ass tribes of indians to ever fight the white man in the Ohio River and Detroit area. His brother Tecumsah was their chief. He was the bad-ass leader and was, of course, betrayed by the "french" while fighting the English. After that "open door" became "loud noise", the drunken retarted shamen, once again. I don't care what you call it, it will always be "loud noise" and the "Drop-Zone" to me.
Bill, I am very grateful for every FA made available to me and hold them in very high regard. You have to admit that this is an akward way to find out about a climb that you hold in high regards.
Stewart
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It is Bryan, the route right above Kenny(?) in yellow shirt, but Jon hasn't yet heard that you finally free'd it back in June and named it after him. He called it open book btw, I found out like 2 weeks ago.
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That's cool that you free'd it, I don't know you and its a good looking line. But please don't call it "stewart's ladder" it sounds like I'm too weak to climb it or something. I figured it went at about 10dish. What did you think?
Bill, just so I know and since your writing all the rule's down for that wall; What reserve's a line out there amoungst belay partner's. Say you do a route ground up in the snow and rain and I belay you on it. Then you begin to "project", how much time do I have before I can go and lead it with another friend. And then how much time do I have to let you know that we did it, so that you don't have anxiety about freeing the climb? Just curious for future climbing!
Stewart
Here's where I was climbing the weekend before.
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A pic of where we were climbing near this weekend. This is the 3rd GFFA of "je'mapel Jon Phillip" in June. I gave my other ground up aid climb a try but was shut down for another try later. You can see it in the background. Its the corner. 1st time on "je' mapel" I had to climb 15ft above my piton on loose rock before I realized there was no gear, so I lowered off my equalized lowball and piton. Second time I put a bolt in on lead and then was shut down by blackberries, loose rock and then exhaustion. The 3rd time glen, with no helmet, got the rain of softball size boulders and then I made it to the ledge and put in an anchor. All ground up, which I like. The problem is that you leave the line open. And my greedy ego climber mentality can't handle leaving climbs undone so I have nightmares and sleepless nights dreaming of freeing the climb. But those are fun too.
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Sorry I don't have any pics, but maybe Markd can put some up of our weekend at cougar.
Stewart
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Hey Bill, nice pics! Where's that wall at, I'd love to check it out? You can PM me if you don't want everyone to know.
stewart
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I plan on putting a flyer out at the zone on Sunday. Let me know if there is one out there already as I will be on my way to beacon and just stopping by.
If anyone needs a flyer I have a few and I believe pinkchalk has some. She was kind enough to print them out for us.
See ya all at the party. Oh yeah, don't forget about the silent auction. I just got 3cases of wine from work that I'll be splitting up into many 4 and 6 packs for individual bidding. Its not beer but it has alchohol in it!!
Stewart
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The nut is what caught me. apparently it was stuck. I was gonna go back and get it but someone got there first. Would love to get that piece back too. I think it was a #5 DMM. There my favorite size.
Stewart
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forgot to mention, the best part of the day was saving the 60'some odd bucks i was planning on spending on a new blue alien when i found one some gumby had abandoned on cruising - 15 seconds and no nut tool landed a fine metollius cam in the same range! if the owner has a blue alien they'd like to swap out for this orange-spray-painted model i'd be fine to make the trade
Thanks for getting that for me! I'll trade a smoke!
Stewart
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Wait, what day is it?
Thought it was only the 3rd!
Stewart
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Yeah Ivan, I'm all good and back to climbing 5.9c.
The reward is different depending on who has it. do they like beer, wine or wiskey?
Stewart
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Sorry to bring up an old topic!
Jim told me that someone cleaned out the nut that caught my fall.
Was hoping to get it for my mantle and a reminder.
If anyone knows who has it let me know. Huge reward!
Stewart
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Dude, those are for you to use as your own "bail biner"
stewart
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Who the fuck bolted cracks out there?
JL
i have climbed there once. It was one of the best days of climbing I had all summer. Thanks to Markd for getting me out there and my girlfriend waiting at the base for us. We climbed the "direct old school route" (5.9). It was incredible!
On the descent, I noticed a bolted fist Jam. It looked like the bolts had also been glued in. The glue left huge stains all around the bolts and made them more obvious. Its hard to say that it was textbook for "bolted cracks", because it was worse than that. I just can't understand how someone could think that those actions were ok. they disrespected a gorgous place.
Lucky for me, I remember the climb, more so that the shitty bolt job.
stewart
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So I am looking for free wood to make the steps out of (old pallets). I will use the wood to hold back the dirt and use rebar to anchor the wood inplace.
When the Washington State Road crews replaced the guard rails, they threw all the old wood posts over the cliff. When the leaves fall off the maples, you can see them below the pathway. These are what I used for a few steps and belay ledges.
Also, I was thinking of using the spare tire's that people have thrown over for steps. It's pretty ghetto, but easier that hauling them out. With a little thought, they might actually look ok.
Good Luck!
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I can't believe how easy the kid makes it look (anyone under 40 is a kid to me these days:-), who's old?
Yeah he makes it look easy. I've watched the video a few times and I'm convinced I can do it Myself.
yeah-right!
Stewart
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Why do you get to respond on this thread and I don’t?
Bill Coe said he didn't want a pissing fest, just appreciation of video. Trying to keep it at that.
Stewart
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I'm meeting with the doc this afternoon to discuss removing the cast. Can't wait for Physical Therapy! I mean the "corner" over and over again!
See ya all soon! Best guess is Thanksgiving Weekend.
Stewart
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clipping a fixed piece might mean you don't have to make a 6" to 12" clip. that's alot. however, you do it how you do it and as long as you don't claim you did it in a betteer style than you did it then so what. juyst have fun.
Right-On!!
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climb a natural gear climb with pre placed gear.....to Pink Point! I know....I have done it.
You climbed "Angle of the Dangle"? Nice Job!
Just Kidding! My point is that we have all done it. And I wouldn't want anyone calling me a pink-pointer after sending a 13- route. Ask Andrew what it feels like to be called Pink all day. Wait, he probably enjoys it. And my point is.....
What is it that you really don't like about it? Please answer me on another thread or email.
Stewart
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The bolts themselves are "pink point" What's the difference if you add a draw to it.
Sure, on a "pure trad" route, maybe you need another way to discribe an ascent with fixed pro. However, I believe many of the hard "pure trad" route's were established with fixed pro or in yo-yo fashion. Just pointing out to Kevin that an FA is a FA on any hard route.
Pink also pointed out that its a crag, not Big Walls of Yosemite. I'm sure the Big Walls have plenty of fixed gear on them for your own "pink-point"
I understand the definition just didn't understand the context in which Kevbone was using it.
Stewart
Pictures of Whippers
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
yeah pink, the fall in that video looks simular to the first time I broke my leg. However beacon has all those little arete's ledges and what not. Those are my curse.