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Stewart

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Posts posted by Stewart


  1. Agree. Need to get some ropes on em as I haven't been on them since ''06. Probably since it's an awkward anchor. May be it just needs a directional or movement of the rap anchor.

     

    As I recall it was run out after the last bolt to the first piece of gear anyways. Also noticed that the first bolt of rolling and the first bolt of high planes drifter are only 4 ft apart on huge ledgy jugs. Maybe share 1 down there so it doesn't look like machine gun fire.

     

     

    I'll chat with the third.

     


  2. Jon Stewart here. Kevin Rauch was the First ascentionist for Rolling thunder. Not sure if I took part in the FA, but I attempted a redpoint at least a dozen times with him and we discussed this same point several times before he passed.

     

    His intention and how we climbed it was to climb "Rolling" and continue up TippTopp (5.8) with gear to the anchor directly above Rolling Thunder. The two routes were done seperatly with TippTopp being done first from the ledge and around the corner which is akward. He then lowered down to the ground and Rap bolted Rolling Thunder which was FA'd during a storm. Doing them together really does make it a nice direct line. I've also seen people finish up Burrito killer. I can't speak for rope drag, but it looked ok with a couple long slings.

     

    I have seen several parties cut off TippTopp and use the rope drag anchor on the ledge which looks akward and slightly unsafe.

     

    I guess here's the questions.

     

    Would we cut up a direct line to the top?

    Would we make it safer for sport climbers?

    Do we need another bolted route?

    TippTopp is a great route and see's limited use, would it be done more or less?

    Rolling Thunder is a great route with limited use, same question as above.

    Would we be discouraging people from learning how to lead traditionally?

     

    If we need an anchor........I would use Kevin's drill


  3. Looks like a cool place! Are there any 5.9's or less? Look's pretty stout.

     

    I remember talking to Ben, must have been 5+ years ago, about the place. He had a real mystical tone in his voice when he talked about it.

     

    Hope to visit!

     

    Stewart


  4. My mother-in-law and wife are both nurses. They would always harass me to wear a helmet. Penny(mother-in-law) works on the trauma unit and always see people who are vegetables just because they were too cool to wear a helmet. I would always argue that its the persons right to wear one or not. After she researched insurance statistics of veggy-patients it becomes obvious that most of the care ends up on the tax payers after the million or so is used up by the insurance companies, if you have insurance. So most of the time it becomes more of a social burden if you get clipped.

     

    Ahh the debate....

     

    Anyways... any time your climbing at the (O/Drop)zone's, or any other new crags, best to wear a helmet. My opinion

     

    Stewart


  5. finally, some laughs. ground-up solo aid-climbing really is the best way to break your leg. better than breaking your leg on a sport climb, eh?

     

     

    If you snap your leg in two on a sport route, you just tell people you fell in the shower!

     

    Stewart


  6. so what do i do now?

     

     

     

    Move on to your next project!

     

    Rap bolting vs. Rap-trad vs. Ground up!

    I've watched this Rap-trad movement going on at the Drop and it's created some really fun lines. I first put up the "Martr" in Rap-trad form, then I did "the close-out" ground up, soon I put up a rap bolted route called "2TRAD4U". What I was doing was "practice". Every route after that I put in "ground up" after inspiration from JosephH. What I discovered was....

     

    Ground-up is the most pure style! I have put in several bolts into the rock and into my leg attempting this style.

     

    Some have questioned my bolts(see pictures above). My answer is "ground-up" bitches! or in french, "Je mapel Jon Phillip"! Do I think that those bolts should be removed? Maybe, but I'll remove them! After having my gear in that crack for months and months I just decided to put the anchoor in so I could get down with my gear. I guess I was lazy. I just have problems rapping in, seems like cheating.

     

    Bryan,onward or ground up and slam in angles into your predrilled holes! Then you can say, "ground-up trad bitches"!

     

    Stewart


  7. It's funny, I break my leg going ground up with a drill strapped to my back and neither my doctor or my wife told me not to do it again. In fact it seems as though they are encouraging me to get back at it.

     

    I plan to always carry a compresser bolt gun like in "cliffhanger" with me at all times. Probably would be pretty handy in NoPo.

     

    Aesthetically, bolts are obnoxious and I think people should always camoflage their hangers and bolt heads, not that I always do it, but I should. I like the sign at Smith that says "Pack it in, Pack it out" unless your a climber with a sick project and a handful of bolts.

     

    Also, why is it that people don't use tan chalk at smith? Before I started climbing I was offended at what the climbers had done to the "peanut gallery" at smith. Don't get me wrong, I love a little bump of the white powder to get me up, but the white dots visible from the highway is a disgrace. I don't know how the State park still allows it or why climbers don't demand it from chalk companies.

     

    Done


  8. I am interested in replacing bolts at broughton, ozone and madrone. Where can I find stainless bolts at a poorman price? Also, do you really have to use stainless hangers with the bolts or can those just be replaced as they rot.

     

    Kevbone, your first hanger to "House of Pain" is missing. Now I know this has been a problem for nearly 2 years. What gives? That route is great and I'm sure people would love to get on it. I will replace the bolt and hanger for you.


  9. What's wrong with the people in the audience.

     

    Was the acid so good then that you had to sit down.

     

    When I saw the Allman's in the early 90's during the whole "hippie revival" man we were dancing, spinnin in hallways, meditating in corners, making fun of the spinners and meditators...........


  10. [video:youtube]KHhKnc0XZrs

     

    Whipping Post! That's a whipper for sure!

     

    Car accidents are whippers, Indiana Jones is a whipper, etc...

     

    Climbing whippers you have to hurt yourself; from any height for it to count! Otherwise, its just a fall.

     

    Jon


  11. I'm not sure the SAR people carry morphine, but who ever it was that was carring would gets a ham and a turkey for thanksgiving if I can find out who it was. I think he was a paramedic.

     

    Lots of agencies working together.

     

     


  12. I was recently rescued by SAR. I was most thankful. I asked them "how much it was going to cost me" so that i could prepare for the finances. I don't think I got a straight answer, in fact I think it was nothing.

     

    Either way, I'm most thankful and would consider volunteering myself to repay costs or send a fat ham to everyone for thanksgiving.

     

    How would I get the names of the people who helped me.

     

    Jon Stewart


  13. ivan said "that's alright i reckon, but you pretty much need to have series of shots for it to convey the idea - wasn't there a thread last year about some giant fall at red rocks or indian creek? dude decked in it - i think there werea lot of stills in it too."

     

    That's what I'm talking about. a Series of photo's

     


  14. Yeah Ivan, I was attempting to go up the arete. I had my drill on a tag line, I figured 1 to 2 bolts until the fern filled crack near the top. Besides all the garbage, will probably be a pretty good line.

     

    Think I'm done with the ground-up business. But we'll see. Ground up is the coolest!

     

    Jon

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