elaine
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Posts posted by elaine
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Madrone Wall enthusiasts!! We need your help!
Saturday Feb 23rd at the Lucky Lab in SE Portland ( SE Hawthorne) at 3:00 pm
We have about 1000 mailings to snail mail out to the various folks on our mailing list. Kinko's does a nice job of folding them, but they need address labels and stamps.
I'll buy a couple of pitchers to those that come and spend a sunny afternoon for an hour or two with us. Look for the skinny guy with glasses ( Keith), his wife ( an angel), his 2 year old son ( full of piss and vinegar), and me ( average and full of piss and vinegar, as well!!)
Many Thanks!
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
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The monthly PAB meetings happen on the 3rd Tuesday at 7:00 pm at the Sunnybrook Service Center
I'm going from memory here and not looking at Clackamas County's website. I know how to get there. i'll look on the County website and edit the info below if I need to
Address is 9101 SE Sunnybook Blvd
4th floor- conference room.
Someone can direct you once inside the building.
This building is just west of 205 and on the north side of the road.
The most important meeting happens March 18th when they look at their "Capital Improvements Plan" and look at where funds get divided up. They look at this multiple times each year.
Keep in mind that the meetings are open to the public, but it is not a public forum where guests have the opportunity to have the floor for very long. Maybe a minute or two.
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I'm not sure what some of this ranting is really all about either? All of this argueing..... pro trad, pro bolts...how about pro climbing????? The original post in all of this came from me wanting to try and find an Access Fund replacement when I step down in May. Silly me thinking that it would be such a simple thing......
And for anyone that wants to bad mouth Bill.........
Bill Coe has been one of my favorites since I met him a few years back. He loves climbing with the rookies as well as the long-timers. I 'd hang with Bill whether he was a big supporter of the Access Fund or not!
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Like I said, I've always had my naysayers and doubters, as has the Access Fund.........And all I did was be a volunteer.....
Best wishes to you Raindawg!
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Thanks, Bill.
I always welcome an open discussion about the AF organization.
To Raindawg, it may not be convenient to have a discussion ( and not a rant on line) with me in PDX about the Access Fund, but your local rep is in Seattle, and I am sure you can discuss with him your perceptions about the Access Fund.
If the Access Fund was anti-bolts, then they would not be sponsoring or supporting our various clean ups and providing grants for our many sport climbing areas; Frenches Dome, Meadow Crags, Rabbit Ears, Callahans, Broughtons, Smith Rock, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee.... Oh, yeah, and in the Summer of 2006, both Jason Keith and myself worked with the Attorney General in Medford and got some bogus bolting charges dropped. A climber in Southern Oregon was developing some routes at the Williamson River Cliffs ( USFS land and NOT Wilderness). He was fined for developing this sport area and drilling bolts. His fine from the USFS? "Developing a trail without a permit." The bolt line was considered the trail. He was set to go to trial and we were ready to head down there and testify on his behalf.
The Attorney General contacted the USFS and the charges & fines were found illegitimate and dropped.
This was your last statement that you posted about the Access Fund......... So for consistency sake, the Access Fund should take a stance against sport-climbing or quit the charade...The "Leave No Trace" people are playing the same game:
superficially noble, and ultimately meaningless statements are made to accomodate everyone, no matter how environmentally or otherwise unethical.
So is the AF really superficially noble and standing on meaningless statements???
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You all can read the Access Fund's position statement on bolts and fixed protection at
http://www.accessfund.org/advo/stand.php
So Joseph, it seems to me that the issue that you have with bolting at Beacon Rock ( or maybe bolting in general) is really not an Access Fund issue, but an ethics issue. The Access Fund organization will never take a position on a specific area, and whether it will have bolts or not. If former or current Access Fund reps want to drill bolts, their actions as a route developer will be subject to the criticism or support from the people that use that area.
If anyone ever wishes to discuss the Access Fund's stand on anything, my personal contact info is for public viewing on the Access Fund's website.
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
971-235-6169
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The Madrone. Of course.
Nothing has changed since my last posts from this Fall. I always put important updates regarding the Madrone and it's progress on this site.
Clackamas County Parks has to do their thing......They've allocated some funds during this current fiscal year to see what it would take and cost to make it a park ( parking lot, bathrooms, use of the 44 acres, etc). They expect to have the "what it will cost" finalized at the end of this fiscal year- June 30th. After that, They need to seek approval from the state to change what the land was zoned for. It's zoned for timber, and not recreation. They need to file a "Conditional Use Application" and get approval with the State to change it to recreational use.
You can see more detailed info in my previous posts from this past Fall.
And like I said.....I'm in it for the long haul. Park creation does not happen quickly or overnight. I'll once again remind all of you climbers who do care about the Madrone Wall that our all- volunteer preservation committee of 4 are the only squeaky wheels that keep our foot in the door and participate with the monthly parks meetings. If all of you would take a moment and send a note or make a quick call to the County once in a while, this thing would move along a lot faster. Greater weight also comes from those that actually live in Clackamas County.
You can e-mail the Commissioners at
bcc@co.clackamas.or.us
503-655-8581
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(I posted this on the climbers board forum yesterday....it fits here, too. I'm going to do my best to recruit)
I made this decision several months ago, and I was feeling that it was time to hand over the reigns to someone else. It is my intention to stay on until May 3, 2008. This is the date of the Annual Spring Thing at Smith Rock State Park. Come this May, it will be 5 years that I have been volunteering for the Access Fund as a RC.
However, I am not leaving the world and the work of the Access Fund entirely. I've already talked with Keith Daellenbach ( Madrone Wall Pres. Committee) about staying on board and seeing that through for the long haul.
I will do my best to recruit and help to find someone else. If and when I do, I will also serve in some sort of mentor capacity if the new RC wants that, and be a resource for them whenever it was needed. I will also make sure that they go through the appropriate application process with the Access Fund. If you are interested in volunteering for the organization, feel free to contact me.
I assume that Tony Holmes will still be a RC, and act as the Mt Hood and Columbia River Gorge liaison to the Access Fund. However, I also feel that more than one person is needed to deal with issues in the state of Oregon. I was handling most of the issues and events in the Portland area, down through the Willamette Valley and I-5 into Corvallis and Eugene, Roseburg, Medford, Ashland, Kalmath Falls in Southern Oregon, as well as events and issues in Central Oregon. I was also a contact point for others in Eastern Oregon.
Thanks for all of the support, and allowing me to be part of an organization where I've been able to serve the Oregon climbing community. I do look forward to staying involved with the organization in other capacities.
Kellie Rice
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Thanks, guys.
I learned that there was people that I would never reach about the work that the Access Fund does. Some people think that the Access Fund is pro bolts, and that was my intention in this position. It's always been completely the opposite with the AF's stand on bolts. I've never drilled a bolt in my life, nor do I plan to. The AF does not get involved in bolt wars. They support fixed pro for safety purposes, but they leave the "how" to the local climbers.
Hopefully this means some more climbing, but again, I'm not leaving the world and the work of the Access Fund entirely.....I've got something stirring in my brain
Much love!
Kellie
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I made this decision several months ago, and I was feeling that it was time to hand over the reigns to someone else.
Since May of 2003, I have been a Volunteer Regional Coordinator for the Access Fund here in Oregon. I've met many amazing folks along the way, and I have appreciated the support that so many of you have given me.
However, I am not leaving the world and the work of the Access Fund entirely. I've already talked with Keith Daellenbach ( Madrone Wall Pres. Committee) about staying on board and seeing that through for the long haul. I think there are other ways that I can be involved within the Portland and Oregon climbing communities.....More to come.
It is my intention to stay on until May 3, 2008. This is the date of the Annual Spring Thing at Smith Rock State Park.
I will do my best to recruit and help to find someone else. If anyone out there is interested in volunteering for the Access Fund, read below, or feel free to contact me through a PM.
I assume that Tony Holmes will still be a RC, and act as the Mt Hood and Columbia River Gorge liaison to the Access Fund.
Many thanks again to those that have supported me and who have been a resource. To those that doubted me, were nay-sayers, or said I had no business in this role, I hope you'll be a little kinder and a little less condescending to any new Regional Coordinator that steps up.
I've volunteered ( and will continue to volunteer) because of my love for climbing. The Access Fund has never paid me a dime (or a penny) for what I've done and. The thanks and support from many of you has been my reward.
See you all soon!
Warm Regards,
Kellie Rice
For anyone that is interested in volunteering for the Access Fund-
There actually is an application process with the Access Fund. I'll provide you with the contact information. They want to see commitment with their volunteers. I will also be willing to stay on as a mentor, providing the new RC('s) with contact info, the "how to's", "who to's", and the like.
I feel that more than one or two peopleare needed to deal with issues in the state of Oregon. I was handling a good chunk of the issues and events in the Portland area ( Rocky Butte, Madrone, Banff, climbing gym events, etc), down through the Willamette Valley and I-5 into Corvallis and Eugene, Roseburg, Medford, Ashland, Kalmath Falls in Southern Oregon, as well as events and issues in Central Oregon. I was also a contact point for others in Eastern Oregon.
I would welcome anyone from any region of the state to volunteer. Dividing up the region is something that the main Access Fund office in Colorado is willing to do.
Feel free to contact me!!
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Yes, we are still asking people to respect the closure.
However, do not be afraid to continue to e-mail or call the County and state your support as this site goes through it's park development process. Right now, Keith Daellenbach and I are the only squeaky wheels for the time being......But then again, someone has to be!!
Here is the link to the Clackamas County Commissioners webpage.
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There has not been a specific timeline developed.
Most if this out of our ( MWPC) hands now and in the hands of Clackamas Co and the State.
According to the newest County Commissioner ( Lynn Peterson);
-It takes at least 1 year for the Master Plan to be complete. Funding for the Master Plan began July 1, so they have til next June.
- Once the Master Plan is complete, then it goes to the State along with a conditional use application to change what the property is zoned for. It is zoned for timber and not recreation.
I guess think about what properties are zoned for residential and what plots of land are zoned for commercial and how to change those?? Very different from this, but there is a process with the state....
So, in order for it to become an official and designated park, there needs to be an approved conditional use permit to allow recreation on it. Clackamas County has to draw up the property boundaries and use of the 44 acres. They still want to harvest some of the timber and designating a buffer zone to keep the recreation use area safe is important. ( For example- They'll want to keep a 200 foot line from the top of the cliffs and back to keep climbers and hikers safe as they harvest the timber from the top of the property. Make sense?)
- The state has to see these plans as well as the parking area, ingress and egress ( spelling?) for water drainage in the parking area as well as an EIS ( for environmental impact). ODOT or Clackamas Co transportation will also be involved at some level for the parking and entryway from the road, too.
- This whole approval by the state could take 2008-2009 before it is complete. Ground will not be broken on a parking area or new trails until the state approves of it.
Subsequent funding has been projected for 2009-2010 for about 200k for the parking and again in 2011-2012 for final improvments- about another 200k.
Funding changes from year to year based on the County's needs and goals. It may happen sooner than later. They look at their buget and their priorities each year. I can tell you that 2 of the 3 Commissioners want to see this site become a park and DO NOT plan to drag their heels on it's progress.
The 3rd commissioner is not against park creation really, but wanted to see the site quarried back in the 90's when it was shut down. Comm. Bill Kennemer called the site a "cash cow" believing it would bring in millions to the county budget, but in fact it is only worth about 1.5 million including the timber and acreage. Not valuable enough to quarry, but we climbers and outdoor enthusiasts cannot put a monetary value on recreation.
Park creation does not happen overnight. The MWPC has met it's goals. 1) Preservation. 2) Keeping it in public ownership and not sold or developed. 3) Progress towards becoming a park.
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Thanks everyone for coming out. As we finished up with the raffle, about 5 kids from Reed College showed up. Bless their hearts. They brought their own trash bags, too. We sent them back down the trail to where they parked, and we welcomed them to pick up any more trash they found to add to the 45 + bags of crap!! Aside from the 3 needles that were found, there was a small TV that Keith Daellenbach found, then there was a lawnmower, and I heard Knottygirl found a tire. No cars or shopping carts this time.
We did find 2 homeless camps near the concrete barrier next to the freeway. I called ODOT this morning to let them know about it. The Multnomah Co Sherriff did come out and said they would wait with us there while we broke them down. None of us had the hearts to do that so we decided to leave it to ODOT.
Thanks to all that came out and got a little dirty. Lots of smiling faces. Thanks to Climb Max again for all of their support! They've been great! Go to their sale this coming Saturday!! A few Tualitin REI employees made it out there, too!
Kellie
Access Fund RC- Oregon
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I've had so many people come up to me and tell me that they heard that the Madrone Wall is open for climbing. Not True!!
Clackamas County has allotted some funding as it goes through the park master planning process in 2007 and 2008. Parks staff, engineers and other County officials are going out there to consider the opportunities for the park, and usage of the land for recreation.
Last I saw, the No Trespassing signs are still up at the site. If it were legally open, the signs would be gone.
The Madrone Wall Preservation Committee asks that people respect the closure as it goes through the park planning process and not climb there until the County takes the signs down and it is open for recreational use.
Thanks!
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
President, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee
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Thanks Bill.
I'll want to touch base with you about another event that I might like your input on. We'll chat at the clean up!
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It is important to note that this lawsuit was between the Access Fund and the USFS. The Washoe Native American’s religious beliefs were not being questioned in the lawsuit, rather the suit sought for equal usage rights (other user groups were not banned) and fought the unconstitutional nature of the climbing ban. This is pointed out for clarification because the issue is often construed to be an issue between the Access Fund and the Washoe which is not the case.
See the AF's press release
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Not quite in shape for the Portland Marathon on October 7th?
Come and join us for a clean up out at Rocky Butte in NE Portland. With an alpine start at 9:30 am, we'll pick up trash for 2-3 hours. Skilled climbers can clean climbing ledges while rapping down. Some climbing equipment provided.
Some good prizes ( Access Fund memberships, Stoneworks gift certificates), some swag, and I'll even bake some yummy treats!
When: Saturday Oct 6, 2007 at 9:30 am
Where: Rocky Butte Natural Area across from the City Bible College- 1 mile east of the NE 82 & Fremont intersection
What to bring? Water and work gloves. You'll definitely want the gloves!!
Questions? Send me a PM
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
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I wouldn't be surprised if more dates get added. Check back to the above website.
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Reel Rock will be coming back to Portland, Bend and Eugene.
Film features Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle, and other climbers. Other films include bouldering in Bishop and big wall climbing in Zion
Saturday September 22 9:00pm in Bend (as part of the Smith Rock Detour). Tickets TBD
Thursday October 11th at 7:00pm in Portland at the Hollywood Theater. Tickets TBD
Thursday October 18th at 7:00pm in Eugene at Lawrence Hall - U of O Campus. Tickets TBD
Go to www.reelrocktour.com for more info
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Come on down to Terrebonne and be part of this 2nd Annual Climbing Fest.
Comps, clinics, food, music, swag, yoga, slackline, and media presentations. Event is in conjunction with the Reel Rock Tour on Saturday the 22nd. Arno Ilgner ( Rock Warrior's Way Author), and Mike Volk, a local pro climber and photographer will also have presentations.
Sponsored by Climb Max, Mad Rock Climbing, The Circuit Bouldering Gym, Metolius, Free Solo Photography, Rock and Ice, Black Diamond, Yakima, Next Adventure, and many more!
Go to www.smithrockdetour07.com
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Madrone Wall folks!
Last night, both Keith Daellenbach and I attended one of Metro's open houses for the particular region where the Madrone Wall area is. Metro is calling this targeted area the Clackamas River Bluffs and Greenway. Although Metro is not taking ownership or management of the Madrone Wall ( Clackamas County owns it), your input supporting parks and open spaces in this area could only help the Madrone Wall as it goes through the master planning process starting July 1st. Metro has been very supportive of the Madrone Wall site on becoming a park. Jim Desmond, one of Metro's Directors, has participated in meetings with Clackamas County Parks Staff about the importance and value of the Madrone Wall site as a park. Please take a moment to visit the map of this potential park area and fill out the survey on the 2nd link ( Due July 6th). The first question asks you to pick a targeted area on the Map. Area D on the Map incorporates the Madrone Wall property. You can check this site (Area D) if you want for it to be the highest priority for park creation.
The statement below is the line from that survey. Other areas ( A, B & C on map) in this survery include Johnson Creek and the Carver area.
"Protecting the scenic views and providing future recreational opportunities by acquiring lands along the Clackamas River bluffs."
(Map area D)
Link for the map:
http://www.metro-region.org/article.cfm?articleid=25062
Link for the survey:
http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=_2br1aYrgBQj5BynYEVH_2bMQg_3d_3d
Thanks!
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
President, Madrone Wall Preservation Committee
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Yo Climbers-
A friend Stan and I were the only volunteers that showed up on Saturday. The two of us and 3 USFS workers built 2 sets of steps around the belay platforms. I hope some more climbers show up this Saturday!! More volunteer opps in the fall for planting vegetation, too.
Kellie
Access Fund RC- Oregon
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I think there are a couple of routes harder than 5.7!!
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Thanks all. I know we can't reach everyone, but it helps if people stay away from the place.
Believe it or not, I've NEVER climbed there!
Kellie Rice
Access Fund RC- Oregon
Madrone Wall Preservation Committee
Madrone Wall Mailing Party- This Saturday
in Access Issues
Posted
3:00pm - Bill
Make sure you show up to the one on Hawthorne