Choada_Boy
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Posts posted by Choada_Boy
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Washington has some great climbs, for sure, but we have some of the best winter via ferrata routes in the lower 48. The N. Ridge of Stuart, for example, is an excellent via ferrata this time of year, with great views and low commitment. It is often done in a short day, thanks to fixed neutrinos.
Other good via ferrata for this time of year are the N. Rib of Mt. Triumph, Nooksack Tower, and der Murderhorne. Have fun, and don't forget your windshirt!!
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If you do climb the NORTH Face, make sure you decend the NORTH side of the mountain. Do not descend to the SOUTH. Do not march SOUTH, mile after mile, into the middle of nowhere.
If you do decide to descend SOUTH, though, you may get free hamburgers, if you are able to get back to your car.
Remember: NORTH
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Nothing beats hunting human.
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Yet another valuable contribution from Spew Sprayshaw. Do you still possess any orginal human tissue or are you finally a fully cybernetic Spraybot? How's your homemade Holodeck coming along?
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I'd say ~30% are permenantly banned while ~50% are Dru avatars.
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Pardon my dickishness. It's easy to grow hyper-sensitized to the "Dru Factor" around here: posting for the sake of posting, rather than posting because you have valuable information to contribute to a discussion. See above for a number of examples. My apologies, I'm just looking for info, not pictures of ass.
I don't claim to be a hardman, either, just interested in technique. I'd rather get a wheel from someone instead of inventing one myself at the risk of getting mauled.
Why a modified gri-gri over a Silent Partner? I would be worried about reduction in strength when you drill a hole where a hole wasn't designed in. Is the weight savings/functionality worth the risk of malfunction?
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Pardon my ignorance: is Bruce Hendricks still alive?
Two daisy chains doesn't sound like "rope-soloing" to me. Thanks for the non-valuable input.
Dru: What system do you use for rope-soloing in the alpine?
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fenderfour: What system do you employ for rope-soloing in the alpine?
As much as I appreciate your input, I'm looking for an effective technique, rather than a list of suggestions that may or may not work, or are so obvious they are not even worth stating ("you'd better be dialed" for example. No shit).
Sadly, this site is lacking in world class superalpinists willing to share their knowledge. I do know there are some local hardmen soloists out there lurking. Any thoughts? PM if you're shy.
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I'm hoping that this is only informational. Anyone who would be "qualified" to solo in the alpine environment shouldn't be asking such questions.
It's one thing to be "qualified" to climb at a certain level, and yet again another to be "qualified" to utilize a system of rope and gear management. I'd say that the latter is far more subtle, and not as intuitive as the former. The logical step for climbing at a harder level is to climb harder. Rope-soloing in the alpine is not something that is necessarily a logical step from climbing with a partner. For example, the use of skinnier ropes seems counter-intuitive. Rope-solo aid techniques may be adaptable, but they don't necessarily lend themselves to the "Light is Right" alpine edict. And, finally, I don't feel that in this case a "go figure it out for yourself" attitude is the best approach.
But, please, no more bullshit, as per the cc.com normality.
Does anyone have any valuable input? Does anyone have any personal experince with a successful rope-solo system that they have used in the alpine? How are skinny ropes employed without the risk of certain death (I've even heard of poeple climbing on 8mm statics)? Any tricked-out gear? What about rope management?
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As usual, cc.com provides a wealth of valuable information in a timely fashion...
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What's the trick, other than big cajones? I understand that a significant amount of free-soloing would have to be done, but what about the roped pitches? Self-belay off of clove-hithes? Silent-partner? Super-sick top-secret Russian beryllium uber-gadget?
I also get the impression that folks are using super-skinny ropes. Specifically? How? Why even bother, if the rope wouldn't hold a significant fall anyways? Is it just a "cross your fingers" type of deal?
An example: Babanov's ascent of the N. Face of Kangtega
...or House on K7, etc.
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Please post your FUNNIEST Holocaust cartoon here.
Don't forget: it should appeal to the Proper Audience
..and who the fuck thought that W.W. III would start over are cartoon of a guy with a bomb for a hat?? It'll make it SO worth it....
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No I think it is Whitechuck
Wrong. See above. Polish Bob on East Face Cutthroat.
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Never existed. She just made that one up.what, was catshitleak banned too?
I thought so too. I am pretty sure it was trask.I thought catturdeat was hilarious with that alternative mark twain avatar. haha! genius.Nope.
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You've forgotten that Canada is the Land of the Midnight Sun.
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Bump. I broke the keychain, sorry!
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Keychain got broken last night at a party!!!
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Is there any merit to the "REI Recall" over the "misplacement of the hole in the cam lobe" "issue" with the orange camalot? There has been some discussion of it on the RC.com thread...
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To sweeten the deal, I'll throw in the original Smiley keychain with the Smiley ice screw!!! What a scremaing deal!!!!!
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Getting cold out there. Freezing up pretty quick.
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Buy My Stuff!!
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Buy My Stuff!! Here's the process:
1) PM if you're seriously interested.
2) I calculate S&H depending on your location.
3) You send me cash or check.
4) Your check clears.
5) I send you your stuff.
6) Everything is as/is, no returns.
Charlet Moser Grade 8 Monopoints ($50)
Grivel G12 Crampons with "Cramp-o-matic" attachment ($100)
Grivel (left) & Smiley (right) 22 cm ice screws ($25 each)
SMC Deadman ($10)
Monopoints: Used for ~7 seasons, look hammered, but plenty of life left in them. Classic crampon, much cheaper than new these days.
G12s: Carried around, never used, near-perfect condition
Screws: Used, nothing special, Smiley is loosing some plating, work fine for belays.
Deadman: Used maybe twice
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Yet another example of why Canada sucks so much ass: you claim to pay tribute to Dionysus and not a hint of animal sacrifice, bestiality, or homoeroticism. Showing your rectum to the front desk and watching your buddy clean his foreskin hardly count.
My guess is you'd barf all morning long, after 2 beers the night before, if you came down here and raged with the big boys.
Boundary Bay IPA
in Spray
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Use extreme caution. Ask jordop for more details.