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jmckay

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  1. Did some climbing on Reality Check today. It is fatter at the top than at the bottom, which makes for the steepest climbing I've had there yet. Sustained WI5 for 45 m. The ice is solid and takes full length screws well. There are two climbable lines on the falls, but the climber's left one has lots of chandeliers. The access from the bottom of the Ski Smithers chairlift is fast and easy. Do bring skis. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide IFMGA Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0 tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  2. The temperatures at timberline have been around -5 since Sunday. The 10 to 30 cm of snow on the 6 December raincrust are settling and bonding well. The crust reacts to compression tests with hard results that compact progressively. Ski cutting in steep terrain only led to sluffing on the crust. We saw no new avalanche activity. Skiing quality was good where the crust is not exposed by wind. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide IFMGA Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0 tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
  3. With the exception of Arsenic Falls behind the parking lot, all ice is in and fat. We climbed the middle falls which were in good shape with two steep sections. It seems like a big avalanche swept the right hand falls on 19 November, but nothing big has slid since. The creek is well covered and allows good skiing where last year one had to walk it with crampons. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide IFMGA Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0 tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
  4. Hi gang, I have been busy skiing the trees at Corbin Pass (just west of Glacier Park) the last few days. Continued snow (@ 20-30cm every 24hrs.) made for fresh trailbreaking every day. Lots of wind even down below treeline on Tuesday Dec.12 – less so today and Monday – I was barely into the treeline elevation today but I suspect that there are some lingering windslabs up there as well as in the Alpine from yesterdays wind event. There was a weakness in the snowpack down 30cm. yesterday, but it tightened back up with the cooling temps today and wasn’t reactive to ski’s – at least where I was skiing. On Monday at @2200m. there was @ 130cm. of snow over the Nov.7/06 crust and a total snowpack of @ 200cm. - there is an additional 40-60cm. since then from the last storm systems. The Nov.7/06 crust was 5-10cm. thick and the snow above seemed well bonded and quite strong. So there has been lots of snow (and it looks to continue) and a fair bit of wind so be wary traveling above or at treeline for the next while – in the long term however all this snow should make for a strong snowpack – and in the short term there is some fantastic tree skiing to be had out there. Also of note is the fact that Telus is now setting up cell towers along the Trans Canada highway from Revelstoke and through out the Roger Pass – so far the west side is done (so there is cell service at Corbin area as well as the Asulkan Parking lot – I haven’t got it at the hotel yet) – bring your cell phones(with the ringer turned off of course) and see where you get service in the backcountry – a worthy emergency device to carry – but it won’t cover everywhere out there, so nice to know where you do and don’t get a signal. Keep them slippery side down, Scott Davis Mountain Guide
  5. Guided Aquarius, Fearful Symmetry, and Rainbow Serpent today. What an amazing day of ice climbing! Aquarius is dry and fat, WI4 Fearful Symmetry is a full 70m up to WI6. It has sections of overhanging ice with good protection except for the first pillar. Dry. Rainbow Serpent: Dry ice w/ good rests between awkward and funky moves. Very windy today (west). Beware of the unsupported and sublimating ice features that are numerous in the Recital Hall. We saw one significant dagger break off spontaneously due to the wind. Rob Owens ACMG Alpine guide.
  6. Monday Dec 11: Climbed Rogan's Gully on Cascade. Generally in good shape and surprisingly not very wet inspite of the warmth. The big funnels above the route have already slid earlier this year and avalanche debris can be found before the last pitch and in the exit bowl. Cascade was not looking very inviting. There is a fair bit of water running underneath the ice and I bet the two crux pitches would be scary right now. Tuesday Dec 12: Climbed Coire Dubh on Loader Mountain. The ice climbing is in good shape - a bit wet in places but easily avoided. A couple of intense snow squalls passed through during the climb and deposited about 5 cm of snow, which made the initial rock pitch for the integral finish quite tricky. For those who don't know, the bolt that is mentioned in the guide book and which used to protect the crux move has been gone for a while, but one can get decent trad gear placement instead. We descended from the tree after the crux pitch due to the adverse conditions on the rocks. Good luck out there, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA / UIAGM) 1-800 506-7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 www.ontopmountaineering.com
  7. Yesterday guided ‘Shooting Star’ on Mt. Wilson. The route is in good shape: mostly dry and solid. The first pitch will not last long with some sunny days. The route is in WI5/5+ shape right now. It snowed lightly all day with moderate winds and mild temps. Isolated slabs were forming throughout the day. Today guided ‘Mixed Master’ near the Weeping Wall. The route is in fat shape. The crux is the 5.8 traverse pitch and the ice pitches feel like WI4 as they are very hooked out and protect well. 10cm ice screws are useful. There were flurries and strong SW winds throughout the day. The snow was moving around a lot. I would be hesitant to climb under the snow bowls on Mt. Wilson or Cirrus in the coming days. Rob Owens Alpine Guide
  8. Enjoyed a cragging day at Bear Spirit today (Dec 12) with some friends. The trail in is well packed but very icy in spots making for slippery walking (and embarrassing wipe-outs). The ice up the approach gully is a thin shell with lots of holes in it and running water behind; however, it is short and easy and if all else fails can be avoided by yarding up the fixed rope on the left. It should repair itself once we get some colder temperatures again. The two main WI4 pillars are touching down and very wet. We also climbed the mixed routes Hocus Pocus, No Love and X-Mass Chopping which all had their "normal" amounts of ice. The other mixed routes (All Canadian Torque, Child Care, Woody, Scratch and Win, Spoiler / Spoiled Rotten) all looked to have plenty of ice on them as well. Some of the tat around the trees on top are starting to show wear and might need to be replaced soon so bring some extra sling material just in case. It snowed off and on all day and by the time we left over 5cm of fresh snow covered our tracks from the morning. Sean Isaac Assistant Alpine Guide
  9. Climbed Malignant Mushroom yesterday in the Ghost. Plastic blue-goo offered one swing sticks but the top third was a little sun-leached making screw placements less than ideal. By noon the sun had escaped the clouds and was heating up the sunny amphitheatre. We started up our second route, the mixed corner immediately left (Perfect Day M6), but quickly retreated only a few moves up because a small hanging icicle on the left margin of Malignant Mushroom crashed down. We decided it was getting too warm so called it quits and left. By the time we returned back to the car at 2pm it was 8 C; way too warm for ice climbing, especially in the sun. Warm temps are still forecasted for the front ranges tomorrow and Monday so be prudent of where you decide to seek out ice. In short, avoid sunny ice in the ghost and Kananaskis Country until the temperatures become more seasonal. I was at Haffner today and it is slightly cooler towards the west in the main range. Sean Isaac Assistant Alpine Guide
  10. Just a note on some of the quickie ice climbs close to jasper. BS canyon (Gorbie Canyon) is in good shape! The waterfall out of the hole is in as well. Schwarz's on the west highway is in, fat as well. Edge of the world is good, a bit wet on upper pitch but can be avoided. Peter... Peter Amann Mountain Guiding Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0 780 852 3237 www.incentre.net/pamann pamann@incentre.net _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  11. "I am looking at the ten classic climbs in the world" Sound familiar, should it was you up at gros morian park. You should let the cat out of the bag on that one. joe
  12. Climbed the route today with Kristen. Fantastic shape with lots of ice and good snow on the mixed pitches. Good trail into base - 2 other parties on route. Last pitch felt like it was short but steep grade 4 with a good rest and soft ice. Pictures on gravsports dot com. One of the best routes around... Have fun! Mike Stuart Assistant Alpine Guide m_stuart@telus.net Joe's note This is one of the best climbs in the area and forms only every 5 years or so. If it as good as they say then I highly suggest giving it a go.
  13. Went up Asulkan valley today as far as the Cleaver between the Sapphire and Dome Glaciers @2200m. Snowing lightly all day (a skiff on the car at the end of the day) with a few blue sky breaks in the morning to lure us up above treeline – clouds settled in again by the later afternoon. 15cm. of snow in the track at valley bottom since yesterday afternoon bumped up to 25-30 by the time we began breaking trail above the Mousetrap making for 45cm+ ski pen and a good workout going uphill. Numerous small loose snow point release avalanches in this newer storm snow in 40 degree + terrain as well as skier triggered sluffs when we skied steeper terrain. No real slab in the upper snowpack as of yet and no wind effect in the terrain we were in though I am sure that may change higher up at ridge crest or wind exposed locations (looked like some wind action up high on the Youngs peak side of the valley. All in all great (okay amazing) skiing but be aware of loose snow sluffs especially in confined features or where there is a consequence below you should you be swept off your feet. One other thing , I am sure that Parks will have plowed out the parking lot by tomorrow but if you are in a 2 wheel drive make sure first as it was bumper deep in the Asulkan parking lot today. Keep them slippery side down – at least when you land! Cheers, Scott Davis Mountain Guide
  14. Climbed Dancing With Chaos with Dr Jim Wilson today. It's a great day out on a rarely formed climb. Be aware that there are two approach trails within 20 meters of each other, 6.8 km past the David Thompson Highway coming from Lake Louise. The left hand trail leads to Shooting Star, the right hand one leads to Dancing With Chaos. Enjoy, Grant Meekins Alpine Guide gmeekins@telus.net _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  15. Saint Nicholas' Day brought another 30 cm of wet snow in the valley bottom, southerly winds, and rain at higher elevations. We flew the east flank of Hudson Bay Mountain at ten this morning and were surprised to find less snow than expected, no slabs and wet surface sluffs only in steep terrain. In the main start zone at 1800 m, some of the bed surface from the 19 November cycle was still visible and the cornices were small. There was a lot of wind effect from that elevation on, with the upper mountain appearing stripped. We then skied up to our observation site at 1500 m and found about 15 cm of new snow, the top 6 cm of which were wet and very high density. It was 1.5 degrees above freezing, raining lightly, and there was a strong southerly wind. The skiing was vile. Even in steep terrain, ski cutting only led to surface sluffing. The visibility was not very good, and we saw and heard no other slides. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide IFMGA Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0 tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  16. We spent the weekend up in Hope Creek, the drainage east of Railroad Pass or north of Tenquil Lake. At 1450m it was -17 when we arived on Friday night, and 0 when we left on Sunday evening. We found a prominent weak layer in the upper snowpack, that was settling out with warming temperatures. This layer was the interface between the snow that fell on Weds/Thurs (Nov 30) and the previous snow. In the Alpine this layer was very wind affected and varied from 5-50cm deep. At treeline and below this interface was 18cm deep and equally reactive, but the surface snow was very light. We saw two size 2 avalanches on steep NE terrain in the alpine that probably occurred on Thursday or Friday. In the alpine steep rolls would produce small avalanches (so we stayed away from the big stuff) and at treeline and below it would slough off. In technical terms we were finding Easy to Moderate (SP) shears down 18cm (HST) on a cold stellar layer, which was preserved under 1F to P dense slabs in the alpine. While we were out there we watch the Surface Hoar grow to about 1cm in size, before getting wiped out (in our valley) to about 1650m by above freezing temperatures. We skied it like: Saturday: Alpine-Considerable, Treeline-Moderate, Below Treeline-Moderate Sunday: Alp-Moderate, TL-Moderate, BTL-Moderate If I were to go back in the next few days I would be really keeping an eye out for that newly buried surface hoar layer and checking to see how the next layer down is reacting. Conny Amelunxen MG, ACMG
  17. Spent yesterday on Lesser Flute. Excellent ski conditions. At 1800m the height of snow is about 2 meters. By 2:30 air temps were -16 with high humidity. Brrrr. Within the snow pack stability tests gave hard and moderate results with one easy test 20cm down from the surface within a fist density layer. Yesterday afternoon I rated the Hazard at tree line as Moderate, and the Stability at Tree line as Good. The northerly and outflow winds started to effect the area at around 1pm. Dave Sarkany, Ski Guide
  18. Short day at the Gorge today, above Malakwa, near Sicamous. Temperature was minus 9 at 6000 ft / 1800 m, snowing less than a centimeter per hour, with light to moderate SW winds (probably stronger winds in the alpine). There was a 200 cm snowpack, and 70+cm of low density storm snow on the recent raincrust below 5500 ft / 1700 m. The only raincrust found above 1700 m is the Nov 7th crust, which is 20 cm thick and down 140 cm now. We skied a steep north facing line with well spaced trees. There was only surface sloughing on 35+ degree terrain. Excellent ski quality, and great coverage with a supportive snowpack down to the road at 4500 ft / 1350m. There was even good skiing to be found in the lower cutblocks. Driving back to Revelstoke there was a strong outflow wind at Three Valley Gap. Looked like good (but very cold) windsurfing. Jordy Shepherd Mountain Guide
  19. I was east of Whistler Mt's ski area boundary in Burntstew Basin. In the flats of the basin, at around 1700m, there is a height of snow of 150cm and a foot penetration of about 70cm. Ski penetration is 30cm. The ski quality is pretty much excellent. As the visibility was pretty bad by the time I got there I don't have a lot to say about the Alpine. At Tree Line I saw no avalanche activity, and many slopes got there first tracks of the season; I'd place the hazard as Moderate, and going up as it storms tonight. Dave Sarkany, Ski Guide
  20. I was back at the pass today because yesterday was just too good to be true. We were up the Connaught drainage this time wound with a lap on Grizzly Shoulder with excellent ski conditions and then a run to punch a track up to Balu Pass – where we spent the rest of the day by ourselves in 40-60cm new, very light and and very cold new snow. The shears down 15cm and 30cm are still present but not producing any significant results in areas skied today. Minor sloughing in steep features but no real mass or momentum to speak of. The winds were generally light from the north, gusting moderate and starting to transport snow up high on the shoulder up from Balu Pass just beneath 8812 peak, no slabbing observed at all today. The weather was in and out but we got a reasonable look at the high country including 8812 bowl and the Cheops slide paths. No wind effect in 8812 bowl at all that we could see, and most of the paths off Cheops that affect the valley floor have sluffed off in the last 24 hours, all running to top or mid path elevations. All in all another fantastic day out at the pass... and its only November... Skiing is excellent all round, reports from the Ursus area were 5 star as well. Hazard wise, things are changing with all the new snow lately and more on the way – keep your eyes open, tips up and repeat your ‘Obvious Clues’ as a mantra out there...Avaluate things carefully. Ian Tomm Assistant Ski Guide
  21. Just a heads up that on our way to Lake Louise for a ski tour this morning we noticed that La Goute's top pillar had broken off probably due to cold temps. As we were skiing out from Surprise Pass (which is still in similar condition as Sean's post) we talked to a couple of guys who had just experienced a really close call at the base of Louise Falls when the right side of the curtain fell off above them and left a huge pile of debris where they had been standing. Its seems that its good to be weary of hanging ice when there are big changes in temperatures. Cheers, Marc Piché Mountain Guide
  22. Temperatures have dropped to -24 degrees at timberline with a moderate southerly wind. There is wind effect to timberline and the upper mountain shows a lot of wind effect. The 19 November avalanche cycle has stripped the large start zones. The debris is blown off and showing. Cornices are small. A profile at 1550 m shows 160 cm of snow. There is a very easy shear on surface hoar 3 cm down, but we found no rain crust, contrary to our expectations. The temperature gradient in the top 50 cm is very strong. Since the run down was variable and wind affected, we carried our skis down into the path. Skiing quality was very poor on the avalanche debris so we carried them all the way. -- Christoph Dietzfelbinger Mountain Guide IFMGA Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0 tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854 info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  23. Headed to Highwood Pass today for a crisp afternoon of skiing before the Hwy #40 gate closes on Dec. 1. We were one of 6 cars parked in the area. -22C at 11am in the parking lot with broken skies and a moderate wind from the south that made us sprint into the trees for some reprieve. I was pleasantly surprised to find an 80-85cm snowpack at 7500 ft. in the trees. The Nov. crust sat about 10cm off the ground, 2cm thick with facets and/or depth hoar beneath almost everywhere I looked for it. About 15cm of fist density snow on 55cm 4 finger - 1 finger density snow that sat on the crust. Below treeline the snow was not consolidated enough to move on steeper features, but that changed in a hurry when we reached treeline. Where the snow had any exposure to wind it was forming a soft slab that produced moderate, resistant planer hand shears. The HS also decreased to 40-50cm and some thinner spots with burried rocks - one such spot producing a sizable settlement with cracks shooting for several meters. I believe the wind had removed some of the HS beneath the most recent storm snow as the surface was not visably affected until above treeline where wind etching was evident. The alpine looked uninviting and even a little scary with loaded pockets here and there, although I saw no recent activity anywhere. The best skiing was definately in the trees where we had great boot top powder. Just above treeline and in more open areas we were getting the odd "free stone grind". At our high point of ~7700 ft. light wind transport had blown ~5cm of snow in to our tracks in ~30 min. On the drive home Whiteman's Falls looked quite thick, Kidd Falls looked in typical condition and Amadeus was in although perhaps a bit stiffer than the grade right now. Cheers, Shaun King Asst. Ski & Alpine Guide _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  24. Erica and I had a recreational day up Connaught Creek on Friday, skiing Dispatchers trees and Ursus trees. Snowing lightly all day, generally calm or light winds with some sudden westerly gusts to moderate although up higher it seemed to blowing harder. -12 at our high point. About 150cm of snow at treeline, 120 cm on top of the Nov raincrust. The entire upper part of the snowpack was fairly low density with no major layers noted with probing. A couple of size 1 soft slabs on steep rollovers in the immediate lees of ridges. Some moderate sized cornices hanging around. No activity today in the alpine that we could see in a couple of hours of decent visibility although the light was flat. Overall, in the treeline areas we skied things felt fairly benign although the light snow would be transported by winds and form slabs fairly quickly. Ski quality: super excellent. Cold smoke! Mark Klassen Mountain Guide _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
  25. Do to a verry late start this AM we headed into spray falls. A popular route lately. However conditions have changed since its condition was first posted. This is what i found: It was not as wet as it was earlier in the week. But more snow than on my first visit. The colum cracked while climbing it. At the top i decided to go and take a look above the route, to familiarize my self a bit more. Above there is much wind loading and lots of snow! Over 1 meter penetration in some sections. Significant slab formation in the main shoot coming in from climbers left(aprox 20cm thick) observed at about 40m above the route, already enough material to take you off the route. At the top of the shoot maybe 300m away a nice 1.5 to 2m cornice overhangs the line. Basically those are the facts. The snow felt good but the terrain and the volume did not. Maybe the next major snow fall or wind event.... At the least I would pay serious attention to minize the exposure: on the approach and during belays. The terrain was bigger than i had thought and despite the current Hazard posting i would find something else to do for a while. Patrick Delaney ass. alpine guide
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