sjwages

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partner found

Saturday and/or Sunday Stuart (North Ridge, West Ridge) Dragontail (Serpentine) Lead around 5.8 Can leave saturday morning, pm if interested.

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Visited the Bugaboos during 4th of July week. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in good step kicking condition, no crevasse or 'schrunds have opened up yet. There was about 1 foot of snow on the slab just below the NE ridge of Bugaboo, the scramble for the Kain route had snow but people were climbing it. Eastpost and Crescent is dry. Don't know if Snowpatch was being climbed, it looked like there was at least a foot of snow on top. Pigeon 7/4/07--the finger crack at the top was wet, snow and ice kept us from climbing the last bit to the top, otherwise awesome weather.

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4/22/07--It was a half hour walk from the lower Elinor TH to Washington's TH. Tried Route 2 but it's melted out, so is winter direct. We went over to the NE ridge and it got very warm around noon with icicles breaking off above us and zipping down the slope so we bailed.

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Went up the gulley instead of the roof pitch.

Not a lot of info out there for this one. HWY 20, MP 164-3/4 The trail starts where the woods are closest to the highway, winds down to the creek, and crosses the creek via debris and a large tree fall. From there it leads up, breaks into the open and crosses a 20 ft wide wash leftward. The rest of the trail/cairns are pretty easy to spot. When an apparent dead end is reached, ascend a 15 ft wall with big holds and a cairn at the top. The footpath will then lead to a series of fixed ropes and the base of a gulley. We ascended about 30 feet of 4th class loose stuff to the right of the overhang and cruised the ridge to the 5th class section.

Climb: Le Petit Cheval-Spontaneity Arête Date of Climb: 8/6/2006 Trip Report: Last summer Trogdor and I climbed the descent gulley in its entirety not knowing where to start the climb. This time I went with Astrov and Jeseeca, beginning the ridge climb immediately upon entering the gulley--much better. Good rock, off the beaten path, lots of moderate climbing (up to 7P but we probably ran a couple together). Rapping the upper ridge took longer than descending the gulley. Approaching Petit Cheval The ridge as seen from the gulley Mantling on fairly clean, solid rock Slinging an opportune tree There are plenty of cracks, flakes, horns... Rewarding views and exposure And the summit Gear Notes: up to 3.5", shoulda had shoes for the descent Approach Notes: The fixed ropes are getting flat, first one has an exposed core 10 feet up.

Yep, there it is. I didn't expect there to be any snow in the chute. Heavy snow year I guess.

Climb: Surprise Basin-Mt Clark West Flank Date of Climb: 7/30/2006 Trip Report: Took a long day trip w/ AstroV and Jessica out to Royal Basin. Our original plans were for Arrowhead but due to low clouds we shifted our plans to the lower walls on Clark's west side in Surprise Basin. Clark and the west flank during a brief clearing. Our route on the west flank (Low 5th, 3P) Enjoying the exposure on the 2nd pitch. Simul climbed some of the 3rd pitch which tops out in a small gully. Topping out on the ridge. We traversed the north side of the ridge instead of trying to find adequate rap anchors. Most of the rock we traversed was pretty solid aside from some scree. After traversing under NF of Clark we found a notch to scree ski down and make our way back into Surprise Basin to retrieve our packs. We made it back to the parking lot around 0400--a very long walk out. I would suggest at least 2 days to explore this area. Gear Notes: Small rack up to 3", set of nuts. Should have brought bivy sacks and/or GPS. Approach Notes: The approach to Arrowhead is still filled w/ snow--FYI

Have book, how about Saturday?

partner found, thanks

Would like to carpool, I'm in Bremerton. I lead 5.7 trad, follow 5.9--SEWS sounds good or Petit Cheval...flexible w/ my plans though.

Sat and/or sunday Have rope, rack Olys, Cascades whatever 360-337-7943

SE Ridge Mt Washington SUN? 360-337-7943 leave a message if not there. Have rope, rack.

I have a pair of 5.10 Mountain Masters. Excellent friction, not so great at edging, good in cracks; works well for me up to 5.7.

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We headed up there 4/2/06 with a 4WD pickup and got bogged down in wet slushy snow about 2 miles from the lower trail head. It was raining so we decided not to hike the road. Snowshoes would be a good idea, used them around Mt Angeles and Steeple as snow is still nice and fluffy. I've heard there's a rap involved somewhere...

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