chinook2

I would like to know how different experienced climbers rack their pickets. A more efficient method would same significant time on running belays. For instance, say you are carrying and placing 4 or 5 as a leader. Thanks

Any suggestions for accessible places to teach a couple of newbies ice axe arrest this late in the season? (Minimum time spent approaching with good runouts and varying terrain.)

Climb: Adams-South (dog) Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: A little late posting the TR but it's been a hectic week. The conditions on the southern route are fine. You'll be on snow from just below the lunch counter to the top. It's tough not to notice the odor of human habitation at the lunch counter. Some people were actually taking water from the tarn forming to the west and below - yikes! Got to it at about 4:30 am. The neve' was in shape with good crampon conditions. Later in the day, I spoke with a group without crampons that turned back. The glissade chute was a bit icy above about 11,000 ft at 8:30 but had good standing glissade conditions below for most of the way down. Some of the glacier ice is showing as the snow continues to disappear. IMHO**************** You can add my voice to those calling for an improvement to the sanitary conditions at the lunch counter. There are just too many people polluting the area at this altitude. I think it's time to build an outhouse and concentrate the impact. All of the stone wind walls makes opposition to building a structure ridiculous. Gear Notes: Crampons Ice Axe

I was thinking about a solo (among the throngs) trip up the south (dog) route on Adams this weekend. Any reasons (crevasses) I should rethink the plan. Also, any beta on trickles (running water) above the lunch counter would be helpful. Thanks.