sparverius

If the guys are carrying an altimter they'd be able to detect a rise in pressure, which would let them know that stable weather was on it's way. I'm guessing that at least one of the three had one of these.

this is an awful day for climbers in Oregon. Vern was one of the most passionate climbers I've ever met. Talented and driven as well. May peace be with his wife and young son.

I'm looking to take Casaval Ridge up Shasta while this weather window lasts. I am flexible and could go early to mid week while the weather is stable. I live in Ashland and am generally looking for climbing partners in the area. I've been up the Hotlum Glacier route, but not Casaval.

Nice work letsroll. I think we camped close to you on sat. night. We were the party of three that scoped out the adams glacier while you guys were resting after the climb. We headed up early (1:30) sunday morning and took advantage of the firm snow before it got too warm. We topped out on the glacier as the sun was rising and had the summit to ourselves. It was a perfect morning for a climb. There was a party of three climbing the adams glacier as we were descending the north ridge.

I guess an appropriate rack would be different for each party, dependent on climbing styles, experience, etc. We took 10 cams up to a 4 friend, 10 nuts, 3 tri-cams, and a 60m 9.4mm rope. In hindsight, we could have done without the tri-cams, the extra #4 friend, and could have used our 8.6mm 60m rope since it would have been doubled the whole time.

I'm planning on doing the traverse in early September and was wondering which topo(s) to pick up for the trip. I've been poking around in Oregon for the past three years and am excited for my first trip to the North Cascades.

yeah, I'm with you Szyjakowski. The colorado rockies and sierras have some sweet peaks and climbs, but have tiny and unimpressive glaciers. They don't hold a candle to the Cascades when it comes to challenging glacier routes. Are you trying to lure me away from the Cascades?

several things learned on the trip: 1) should've had the rope doubled at all times. We decided to run it out on the last several pitches and were rewarded with lot's of rope drag, confusion, and cursing. 2) could've lightened the rack by a few cams, biners, and slings 3) Chunky chips ahoy don't come in sleeves. So our dreams of auto-dispensing cookies from the jacket sleeve didn't pan out. 4) We need to move to Washington

Nice trip report and pix Ivan. Could you get a good look at the N. Ridge of Stuart? We're headed up there soon, and are curious if there is any snow on the ridge.