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counterfeitfake

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Posts posted by counterfeitfake


  1. Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing.

     

    I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know?

     

    The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me.


  2. If the weather is nice, and you don't wait until too late in the season, by midday the snow will probably be soft enough you don't need crampons. Also, that route is not the worst place you could try to use crampons for the first time. Be careful while you are walking with them, and absolutely never glissade with them on.


  3. I climbed Liberty Crack back in 2007 when I was basically a 5.9+ climber without a lot of multipitch experience. I'm thinking about going back to do it again, now that I'm pretty solid on 5.10 and have much more experience.

     

    I am wondering about the sections that go free reasonably but are aided by most parties, and I haven't found much in the way of firsthand descriptions.

     

    The first pitch supposedly goes at 5.11- and I am wondering what it is like. I'm also wondering about the sections right below and above the "rotting block", I remember they seemed much too hard 5 years ago, but supposedly are 5.10.

     

    Thanks for any help.


  4. Obviously you shouldn't build a belay out of 3 bad pieces, but thanks for mentioning that, it is what I was asking for, and more than I've heard in the past.

     

    To quote Will Gadd:

    If the belay is so shitty that I feel perfect equalization is in order then I might go for the duo-glide option, but realize I’m basically being an idiot for trusting my life and that of my partner to a dubious belay.

     

    Stay safe everybody.


  5. Blake is a far more accomplished climber than me, and makes good points, but I like cordelettes. It's true that they are a single-purpose piece of gear, but they make anchor building so fast and easy that to me they are worth it. If you're wanking around on 5.10- trade routes like me, they're a good way to go.


  6. I was looking for "the ultimate racking 'biner" and I figured it would be a wiregate keylock. However I eventually wound up going with the Neutrinos.

     

    I find them to not be very snaggy, and the color is convenient. I rack on my harness and my gear loops are plastic, so if you use a gear sling you might find differently.


  7. Dynafits are the way to go, period. Plum and La Sportiva and G3 tech bindings exist, but what advantage do they give?

     

    Honestly I don't know how much lighter you can get than BD Crossbows, I thought they were a pretty skinny lightweight ski already.

     

    There is such a thing as too light for some people, we can't tell you where that lies. Demo if you can.

     

    I've heard really good things about the Atomic Century for a skier like you (small, strong, female).

     

    There's some stuff here:

    http://blistergearreview.com/

     

    You can also search TGR's Tech Talk for reviews of specific skis.

    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/8-Tech-Talk

     

    Getting some bigger leg muscles makes the uphill easier. I recommend lunges, made a big difference for me last winter.


  8. I climbed Orbit on Sunday, and there was a party that looked to be climbing MJD. If it was very mossy and dirty I would have guessed you'd see some signs of their travel, but maybe not.

     

     

    I personally believe replacing dangerous old belay bolts with solid new gear is a good idea. Be aware that CC has seen numerous shitstorms regarding the replacement of the shitty old hardware on Orbit. Nobody has replaced any of it, and it's probably because there is ample opportunity for gear anchors nearby. Just filling you in on some history.


  9. Anyone been on Flying Circus lately? Those hoser guided groups hang a TR on it all effing day long and let their clients thrutch themselves to exhaustion on something they have no good reason to be on. They've ground all that Squamish crystalline goodness down to snot. :mad:

     

    So true. And where will the next generation of 5.8 leader go to tick a 5.10a?


  10. I was up there that day, to ski the Crooked for the first time. What a good call for the day!!

     

    We probably summitted around 11. There were two guys in patrol jackets who skied just before us, it looked like they had the first tracks of the day. I'm told that the usual entrance is right off the summit but with those cornices we had traversed to a little notch a couple hundred feet away.

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