counterfeitfake

Happens to me every year, generally in September. I catch up with friends who don't climb, drink, tune skis and sharpen ice tools, and wait for the snow to start falling. Personally I can't imagine only being passionate about one sport.

Tale of Two Shitties has one good pitch... Wherever I May Roam is many pitches of decent climbing, and all bolted too. Crack of Infinity is a couple good pitches. Honestly I realized recently that I have almost climbed all the well-traveled Smith trad and multipitch routes that I am capable of climbing. I hear that the second pitch of Wartley's Revenge is pretty good...

Are you drunk?

I'm not even going to bother to make a "let me google that for you" link.

You get lost on the most well-traveled trade route in the state, you should expect to take some shit. So you're looking for a secret route that isn't in the guidebook? Maybe you did a first ascent, check with summitchaserCJB.

Based on the one time I was up there, there are no clouds on Rainier, you should be fine.

If you have to go out on the weekends... this would not be a good weekend.

You mean like a guidebook? Is this good enough?

What does "in" mean? Real snow isn't falling in Washington yet so it's a function of the weather and how determined you are.

Fisher makes several "Watea" skis, you might get more attention if you specify.

yup.

Is it a first ascent if you just go sideways?

I've seen some bashie cams in fact.

I have a pair of the Mammut Genesis you're considering and I think they're good ropes. I think they're on the thicker side for half ropes (8.5) and I've felt good using them in a variety of situations. Double ropes are like a get-off-the-mountain-free ticket. If you led it, you can rap it. That said, the double rope system takes a little getting used to, and if you're leading something hard you would want to have it dialed in.

I climbed EVERY SINGLE WEEKEND between the end of May and the beginning of September. I never once got weathered out of a trip and conditions were generally fucking rad. EVERY year people complain about the weather all summer and then complain that summer is over the first rain we get in September. With fall coming, pretty soon people can switch to complaining about how the snow is not the right consistency. Whiners gonna whine.

Good suggestion. GREAT suggestion!! Those sound exactly like the mellow grade I/II low-fifth rock the original poster was asking for!!

Trip: Mount Stuart - Upper North Ridge Date: 8/28/2010 Trip Report: Last weekend, racsom and I headed up the Upper North Ridge of Stuart with Brandon and Nathan, a couple of students in the class we teach, for their graduation climb. The forecast called for cold temps and possibility of precipitation. Well, we got some- fortunately we were nice and high and it came down as snow/hail. In the morning we found the route in pretty good shape, with a little snow and ice to keep things interesting. Note that the Gendarme bypass looks pretty awful right now. Great work, Brandon and Nathan, on a very worthy grad climb! They led the whole way and it was especially impressive the way they slayed the Gendarme pitches. What an awesome way to climb this route. One thing I really appreciate about climbing is the seasons. Just when I am getting tired of warm rock, something comes along to remind me what is just around the corner. Time to tune the skis and sharpen the ice tools... Gear Notes: Rope Rack to 4" with a couple doubles .75-3 Bivy gear and puffy jackets Crampons and ice axe seem necessary to me Approach Notes: Glacier is bare and hard, the last 30 feet before scrambling up to the notch was pretty darn icy. Even as cold as it was we found a trickle of water through the rocks in the middle of the glacier. There is a LOT of snow in the gulley leading to the notch.

Does anyone have a picture of this spraypaint?

I think it is not crystal clear what the OP did, or was asking... but it sounds pretty clear he was off route. Go up, go right, go up, go right, following a trail most of the time, when you get to the top you step through the other side onto snow. You definitely do not "rappel down onto Salmon Glacier". I have only been down it, but it seems to me the hardest part would be finding the start.

Cunning Stunt seems like the most well-traveled sport route in that range that I know of. 5.10d but it felt way easier than similarly graded trad routes... There is a pretty dense concentration of sport routes at The Country: http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/lower_wall/105790671 But I'm talking out my ass because I don't climb that hard.

Yes. Once on the summit the only beta you need to not wind up in Ulrich's is that you don't go down the first couloir you see, you need to traverse around the false summit before descending.

Why don't you call the shop?

All he said was that she was too tired to go on. But I'm sure she's glad you guys are around to defend her honor.

I think it doesn't apply to AT bindings, and it REALLY doesn't apply to Dynafits.

beacon is a wretched hive of scum and villainy