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Everything posted by counterfeitfake

  1. You know it now, you can't un-know it! Nope, I was just trying to understand your timeline. Oh shit, there it is, another opinion! Talking to non-climbing rangers about climbing stuff just doesn't work very well. But when I went up there a couple months ago, I was told by the non-climbing ranger that anything north of the ridge was Forbidden zone, which in my OPINION (watch out Oleg!) HAS to be the truth. There is no other dividing line.
  2. It only takes one climber pissing on the arch to make it golden.
  3. One nice thing about bivying up there is that you're in the Forbidden zone, for which permits are not in high-demand. I think it's not a good idea to go up there intending to bivy without a permit, and a worse idea to proudly put it on the internet. Did you spend a lot of time at your bivy site waiting for nightfall?
  4. Did you do the legit first pitch? I was up there a couple years ago with a friend who'd climbed P1 of the Waterway and then 2 pitches of GA. We went up and replaced the anchor on the big ledge, which I think would be the bottom of P3 of GA. My friend, fenderfour here on CC, thought that P1 was kind of sketchy looking in it's current state, and might need some bolt replacement. He thought the Waterway was a good means to access the rest of GA. If I remember correctly he thought what he climbed of GA was really good, and the parts above that he didn't do also looked good. I thought he did not use a hammer. You might be able to get some info if you contact him.
  5. Please stop it, people. If you find gear, it is yours, but it's good of you to try to give it back. If you leave gear behind, you can't expect to get it back, but you can ask and hope. It's really not that complicated. There's not much to bicker about. Especially so if you aren't the loser or the finder.
  6. Both are #4s? That's kind of a bummer. But I guess you now definitely do not need to bring your own.
  7. Borderline is so great! One of my favorites. Was linking into AC easy to figure out?
  8. Good report, nice pics! I skied the SW chutes last Saturday, it was in great shape, no sun-cups. The south spur would ski well too, if that's your bag. We skied down right about noon which was good corn timing, the south spur would warm up faster. Approach on snow was super easy, good boot pack, I did it all in approach shoes with ski poles, no crampons, ymmv.
  9. I'd like to know more about the NW buttress descent, does anybody have conclusive beta?
  10. Also not that relevant. Come on, we know you have some pictures of dudes sitting on stuff.
  11. Bullshit. I spend hundreds of hours every year instructing beginners. Nobody has ever asked me anything as stupid as "how do I not sit on my cams?" If you lack common sense to this degree, I would advise you that climbing is not a sport you should be involved in.
  12. You move the cams out of the way of your ass. Any child could have answered that, your question was idiotic. Your others have been pretty bad, too. I appreciate the idea that the newbies forum should be spray-free, but you're wasting our time. You said you learned to climb 20 years ago. And you have a baby. You're not going anywhere. Come back when you're serious.
  13. My experience has shown me that if my toes slide to the front of the boot while walking downhill, they do the same while frontpointing on vertical ice. I've lost toenails over both. Having a low-volume foot is a hassle. Shoe "size" is one dimension, and it's usually the only one that we are given by the boot manufacturer. When I try on boots I tell the salesperson I have a really skinny foot, and see what happens. It's taken a lot of trial and error for me to understand what fits and what doesn't.
  14. How can you really be asking so many ridiculous questions? What is your deal.
  15. You mean "That guy who chopped the compressor route"? Tosh is an asshole.
  16. You need a screw extractor, sometimes called an easyout. If it's really stuck, spray some PB Blaster penetrating lube on the bolt first.
  17. This site has certainly not become more useful in the last 11 years.
  18. For those competent enough to do the T-F traverse, the east ledges are reasonable, but I still think they suck pretty bad. Loose, shitty, unprotectable, nervewracking. I do agree it is cool as far as taking your route clear around the mountain. YMMV!
  19. Nice! Most parties seem to go from Torment to Forbidden, but I have wondered about the idea of climbing the E Ridge of Forbidden to start the traverse, and then going from Forbidden to Torment. Seems like a more aesthetic route, since it has no backtracking. I guess it might be a bummer to watch rock quality deteriorate for the whole time between peaks, and maybe the descent down Torment is not so great? What do you think?
  20. It is definitely possible to climb Lane peak right now. The question is how? You may still be able to climb up the Zipper or the Fly, I have seen reports of these being skied into July. If you aren't sure those are in, an approach from the south is a safe bet. Summitpost.org has more details.
  21. Having been up to Burgundy both when it's snowy and when it's not, having the col covered by snow is a lot easier to deal with. If you are trying to ditch an ice axe and crampons, don't forget the trick where you can kick steps the afternoon before.
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