Jump to content

laurel

Members
  • Posts

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by laurel

  1. Lassen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Lassen McLoughlin (I hadn't heard of it before today's wikipedia poking either): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_McLoughlin I think after that we finally end up with something that's not a volcano, Fernow (not Goode?): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernhard_Fernow
  2. I'm guessing Baker: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Baker_(captain)
  3. sws, I found a #3 in the bushes under Acid Baby, check your PMs.
  4. depending on how close you need to be, there's an official campground up the Middle Fork road (exit 34) and also places near there where you can camp for free along the road http://www.recreation.gov/camping/Middle_Fork_Campground_Wa/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=75386
  5. Maybe this will be obvious once I get there, but I'm pretty good at getting lost so: One of the photo captions says: "P3 starts with a hidden traverse on jugs, straight right for 25'" but is this actually P4 (as listed on the topo)?
  6. If they're uncomfortable in the store they will be even worse for real. A half size difference in shoe size measurement is less than 1/4 inch so the 37.5 should not be that cavernous. But, two things: 1. If you haven't tried this yet: when I'm walking downhill and notice my toes banging I'll retie my boots so that the foot part is looser and the ankle part is tighter. I think most mountaineering boots these days have a lace lock thing to facilitate this. 2. I had a similar problem with the women's version of the Charmoz when I tried them on (outside toes being crunched when walking downhill), but the size up that fit width-wise was too big length-wise. I bought the men's version in the same size (38) which fit a lot better. A lot of the men's versions of mountaineering boots are available in small sizes which is nice for women with wide feet but local retailers won't have them (I had to order mine from scarpa.com).
  7. We found a single trekking pole with some impressive tooth marks on the grip in the Tatoosh between Chutla and Wahpenayo. Let me know if it's yours and you want it back.
  8. The traverse is the best place to be on that route if it's raining.
  9. Colchuck Glacier is not very steep. I see no reason to bring a second tool in any conditions if that's what you're asking. If you are asking if you can get away with bringing a single crampon, I don't recommend that. June 17: we didn't put on crampons, ice axe useful for glissading down the whole thing: http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurelfan/7463257658/in/set-72157630337520462 (some adjoining photos are from the North Buttress Couloir, ignore these. And also ignore photos in which there are second tools attached to packs, those were for NBC. Or look at them and go do the NBC) Last November: very icy, crampons necessary
  10. Last year I climbed Outer Space on Memorial weekend and I think we were the only ones on Snow Creek Wall. Maybe everyone thought it was going to be too popular?
  11. I've only been there once so here is only one data point. We climbed Homage to the Spider on Louis on a Tuesday in August. It was a very fun route and it's a beautiful area, so (taking in to consideration that I haven't done a lot of stuff there), I would recommend it. We did not see a single other person except in the parking lot and the summit register wasn't all that full either. No permits required to climb. You do need to pay to enter the park and to camp (the TH parking lot for Louis is day use only). We spent about a week in the Canmore/Banff area and didn't really see what I would call "crowds" anywhere. We climbed at Yamnuska and in Kananaskis on the weekend -- both times we saw a lot of hikers but only one other group of climbers. On weekdays we hardly saw anybody. We were mostly doing routes in the Canadian Rock select guidebook that were about 5.8 and about 8 pitches, which I would expect to be the most popular sort of thing. Lack of crowds is a very good thing because of the loose rock, but I'm sure you've already heard about the infamous Canadian Rockies limestone if you've started picking out routes. One thing that I wasn't used to from being around here: trails and such occasionally get closed or have a minimum party size because of bear activity.
  12. I was searching for something else and found this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/upload/4538.txt which seems relevant to this thread. For those who care about such things, some of the grades on this list are not exactly the same as in the guidebook.
  13. Just a warning: the WAC Basic Class will be at Spire the next 2 Saturdays (April 7 and 14) from about 7AM to 4PM. Of course there's no rules saying the general public can't use the rock but there will be about 60 of us on the thing.
  14. Kiddie Cliff is in (a pile of snow). The steeper part cleaned off surprisingly well after a few TR laps... too dark for an after picture though.
  15. Or any time of year... I almost sat on one last October. "Hmm, why is my pack rattling when when I sit on it??" "!!!"
  16. If you're looking for easy/moderate single pitch trad, also check out Tieton. I think it's better than Vantage or Leavenworth especially if you're interested in 5.8 and easier.
  17. Alpental Kiddie Cliff Mon 1/16: full size on flickr This thing is (just barely) steep enough that it wasn't buried by the 2 ft or whatever of snow over the weekend. We did get a close range demonstration of why the snow was 6 ft deep at the base of the route.
  18. Strobach Dec 23-24 All pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurelfan/sets/72157628571844095/with/6573910165/ Approach: Low snow makes the roads decent (got up to about 1/2 mile before the 1201/609 intersection, 2wd, no chains, just a bit of sliding around and scraping ice chunks with the bottom), the forest easy going, and the talus field and separation gully very annoying. Conditions: It was kind of warm: mid to high 30s day and night (was 23 and raining (?!) when we drove through Easton on Friday so it looks like our friend the inversion got us again). Anything facing west-ish was falling down in the afternoon. Stuff facing north-ish and hidden in deeper chimneys looked better. We saw puncture marks in Ice Dreams and First on the Left. Dropline Sudden Change of Plan and Sad Ce'Bu We ended up toproping First on the Left, which currently has a fun pillar and a short mossy mixed section at the bottom and then is relatively thick and low angle -- probably fine for leading (just not by me on the first ice route of the season). First On The Left
  19. July 6 is apparently lose your stuff at Neverland day! 1. We retrieved your gear from the plank p2, but then had our own similar epic, by the time we were down you left. 2. A few things under some moss. 3. And while we're at it, a thing on a route in a strange place to bail from. Dm me your address (and as usual, enough of a description of the gear/situation/location so I don't feel like I might be sending someone else's gear to you) and I'll mail your thing to you.
  20. I'm surprised people don't trad climb more at Exit 38, some of it's really nice. Look at this one! [img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5196/5821285939_2b4c94da30.jpg[/img] (just to be clear, this has not much to do with the original topic, it's Cascadian Crack at Valley View West, which is not secret, is in the guidebook, etc.)
  21. I like this one: http://www.ibexwear.com/shop/ProductDetail.php?GID=967&VID=11247&Product=Balance-Sports-Bra comfortable, compatible with being all sweaty on the approach, no annoying metal/plastic parts, covers enough to wear by itself. Ibex also has more supportive options that I haven't tried.
  22. Millennium on Sunday Jan 9. I thought the trail was nice and packed for walking without snowshoes, but the heavier half of the party swiss cheesed it pretty good. I guess the 2 feet of freezing rain or whatever is supposed to happen tonight will fix that anyway. [img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5247/5346197385_9ff113234d_d.jpg[/img] more pictures, feel free to mock the location of my screw placements. (by the way, the book claims there are three millennium walls. I somehow managed to not see the other ones, are they really short? and does anyone know if this one is first, second, or third?)
  23. I'm going to Smith Thanksgiving weekend, may not be able to convince climbing partners who do not own 10 pounds of feathers that it's a "dry cold" and that it will warm up over the next week (Monday night's low is supposed to be 14). The Hub Motel looks like the best deal, has anyone stayed there? Not expecting much for $48, but is it gross?
  24. I've had some close calls but Index is the only place that I've actually been hit on the head with a rock! Luckily (or ironically?) I was the only one in the area wearing a helmet. Apparently rockfall happens even at places where it's "not chossy". (was pulling my rope from Thin Fingers. It was a decent sized rock and did not hurt very much so it couldn't have come from very high up. there had been some cleaning activity on a route next door so I'm guessing there was a rock precariously balanced in a bush or something that my rope snagged on the way down)
×
×
  • Create New...