MatthewS

Moderators - please delete this thread!!

agreed! was down there last weekend with a similar forecast - it got pretty toasty on those walls - perfect weather. Just don't expect to do much climbing before 10AM

Anyone know where I can find Ryan Lawson's Smith Rock guide? Last I heard, it was no longer available at Redpoint. This true?

http://www.suuntowatches.com select your watch model - they have the manual in .pdf format for each model if you look around (hopefully hasn't changed since you bought yours)

Nice TR! Did you happen to find my crampon up there on the ridge somewhere?

Speaking of search, how bout change the default search date range to something longer than "newer than 1 week"? Does anyone ever actually need to search for threads that are only 1 week old? Why not search the entire database by default? (and have an option to select date ranges, if desired)

Don't know if you've seen this but this was updated in June and seems to indicate positive progress: http://mtncommunity.org/dc/dcboard.php?a...ing_type=search

http://www.cnn.com/2005/TECH/09/09/backpack.reut/index.html Backpack generates power from walking My favorite parts: "Humping along just under 85 pounds (38 kg) of weight in the backpack can produce up to 7 watts of electricity" "Pound for pound, food contains about 100-fold more energy than batteries."

For Sale - a pair of La Sportiva Lhotse boots (size 42.5) for $150. The box they come in claims they are a 9.5 mens but Sportiva boots seem to run a little small (they were a bit tight on me and I usually fit fine in a 9.5). I wore these for only a single day so besides a few scuffs they are totally new. PM me or e-mail: stamplis @ REMOVEME gmail .com

I think the default search only looks for messages newer than 1 week - you need to change that to look for older posts.

thanks for the link!

Alright, I'm pretty tired of slogging my way to/from routes while watching skiers cruise by. Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations on what to look for in a pair of skis/bindings that might speed up my approach/descents? I've never owned a pair of skis (although I have skied!) so I'm a bit clueless as to whats out there - mostly just hoping to find a lightweight setup that'll beat walking.

price is now $80

Registration required care to post text of the article?

What kind of berries are those?

I was leading, she was belaying from below - there was nothing special about our setup. I did give the boulder a wiggle before I slung it and it seemed OK - it wasn't until it was slung and gave it a slightly more firm pull that it gave loose. In retrospect, the best thing we could have done was turn back and try another route after noticing the poor quality of the rock on the east face. But, assuming we were determined to climb where we did - the second thing we should have done is found a better spot for her to belay from. She was off to the side from where we expected any rockfall but, obviously, not far enough. Finally, given the big exposure on the east face, we definitely should have set up a bomber anchor for the belayer. Something that would have kept her from falling after getting hit. The only anchor we had on belay was a sling around a horn which was far from bomber.

We were on the North Ridge - hadn't climbed it before and we got off route up at the summit pinnacle. Instead of directly climbing north ridge, we traversed around it (climbers left) onto the east face. I could see a gully on the east face that looked climbable so we headed for that. The gully looked to be 4th class with some nasty exposure, so my wife belayed from below, and off to the side. I went up about 20 feet and commented that there was no decent rock for placing pro. I finally settled on a large boulder (about the size of a person) that looked somewhat stable relative to everything else. I threw a sling around it and gave just a little tug on it and the whole thing just took off down the slope. It took a bad bounce and my wife couldn't get out of the way. She was struck on the shoulder and side of the head (helmet saved her life!). She fell off the ledge she was on and landed about 15 feet below on another ledge. If she hadn't landed on the ledge that she did (about 3 feet wide), there is no doubt we both would have been dragged right off the mountain (below us was 45 degree snow). She had setup a belay anchor but the anchor wasn't meant to take a load from that direction and didn't help at all to stop the fall. In short, our biggest mistake was simply not being able to properly evaluate the rockfall hazard. In our traverse around the pinnacle, we both noted that the rock was awfully crumbly. But we kept pushing on, hoping the rocks up the gully might be a little better. Just some notes on the rescue: The fall happened around 2:30PM. I descended the north ridge until I got cellphone service (about at the point where the climbers trail meets teh ridge) and called 911 around 3:30PM. The rescue teams were up to our position by 8:00PM - FAST! Unfortunately, visibility got too bad to get a helicoptor to pick her up at night but the SAR folks stayed with us all night and did a spectacular job getting her back up to the ridge and then down the west face (with some pretty effective human anchors). The helicoptor managed to pick her off around 7:30AM (17 hours after the fall). The fast response of the initial SAR team getting up to us and helping to keep her warm during that time helped save her life and get her off the mountain as fast as possible. Thanks again to all the folks involved in the rescue! The best news is that she's getting out of the hospital today and going home!

After being struck by a large rock and falling, my wife was picked off of Mt Washington on Fri/Sat by some hardworking rescue teams. In case anyone involved in the rescue posts here, I just wanted to give a HUGE!!! thanks to everyone for working through the night to get her out of a nasty spot and down to where the helicopter could pick her up. As for her condition, she suffered a pretty bad concussion, a smashed finger, and plenty of cuts, scrapes, and bruises. But the good news is that she's fully alert and is starting to move around a bit with the help of a walker. All in all, we couldn't hope for any better news and she might be able to get out of the hospital in a few days!

How about a pair of prusiks tied above your rappel device? Just slide them down with you - if you get out of control, the prusik will stop you. Then you can just step into the longer prusik and readjust to continue the rappel.

Ah...urban exploration...one of the lone redeeming aspects of my childhood home, Detroit. Just watch out for the crazy homeless that roam these buildings. http://detroityes.com/home.htm

Sounds similar to what happened to me - my toe was numb for a few months last year after a cold day in wet socks. The feeling did return but just 2 weeks ago my boots got wet early in the day and sure enough, the same toe is numb again. So don't be too surprised if it ends up being a recurring problem.

I tried registering earlier in the week with a Hotmail account and I didn't get any mail - then I realized that Hotmail filters automated messages into the "Junk E-mail" bin. So if you're using Hotmail you have to check in the junk folder to get your password. Or better, as others suggested, get a new e-mail account.