sprocket

There is a Target in Palm Springs or one of the adjacent municipalities that had stove cannisters. Not too far from the airport on one of the main drags. The little climbing store by the west entrace carries fuel cannisters too. Cost a bit more there.

The movie was cool and all and Sharma is amazing but it wasn't the same without Didier... We did get one memorable quote. "I'm not your wall bitch!" Not sure about the "scented" chalk but it is free!

Last year they sold them at the door. I think they are this year too, jut $2 more per ticket. The place was about 60-70% full last year.

I was down at Smith a month or so ago and Jim Yoder came up and introduced himself. I asked about the new guide and he said it is at the printers but has several jobs ahead of it so it might be a while but it is on the way.

I think they go for time I think. Some guy in Germany went for hours.

Very cool Sherri, give us a report on how they work! Looks like with the La Nina this year you should have plenty of cold wet weather to try them out

I've made the mistake of jumping in the shower before my toes are fully thawed, ouch! I've never tried the Gore Tex socks but I think it would be the same principal as the fleece lined lycra type material. You have a lot of issues you are dealing with. You need something that resists the constant wind you "create" while riding, something that breathes to remove perspiration and also insulates when wet. All this and you want a shoe that gives you a solid and comfortable connection to your pedals. I would almost compare bike shoes to rock shoes, if you started putting insulation on rock shoes they lose some of their performance. In the past road riders could get insulated shoes. You might look and see if you can find some winter mtn. biking shoes with insulation. I've also seen neoprene shoe covers with a fleece lining that might be an improvement. Definitely give the fleece/lycra socks a try. I looked at Nashber and they didn't have them listed yet but I'm sure they will, you can get those for pretty cheap and see if you like them. There is a reason a lot of time and money have gone into indoor trainers. Of course they bore the hell out you.

I've used something similar to these for years, seems to work best for me. Basicaly a heavy lycra with fleece lining similar to some of the softshell jackets. Usually Nashbar or Performance have something similar for around $20 but if you don't mind paying a bit more Assos and other top brands make some nice products. I wear them over a thin cycling sock either wool or coolmax and if it is cold or wet I put the neoprene shoe covers on. Neoprene socks did not work for me, basically your feet sweat and then freeze. If you ride long enough in cold temps your feet will get cold no matter what you wear. Some folks seem more imperviuos than others but I come home in Dec/Jan after a couple of hours and my toes are in pain. Wiggling them often while riding does help. As mentioned you don't want your shoes too tight because of extra layers. I know a lot of racers used to get winter shoes slightly larger to fit extra sock. http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/ASSXXWXY

So if the hardest moves come near the ground it's a 5.8 with a boulder start and if they happen farther up it's a 5.9 with a short crux? The hardest move to me on Penny Lane was the very beginning of the finger crack about 10-15 feet up mainly because it's a bit thin to get my fingers in. Regardless it's a great climb.

Lost souls was one of my first 5.9 leads, short crux but attention getting on lead. Very fun and protects really well. There are some fun bolted slab routes on the right side crag near Loaves of Fun. The Dog Ate My Top 5.7, The Scene is Clean 5.8 and the upper pitch of Milky Way 5.9 (easier than it looks). Once you cross the irrigation canal, just find the trai and then find your way across teh creek and pick up the trail on the other side. It's pretty obvious. If you have time at the end of the day there are two 5.8+ ptiches really close to the road that are worth trying, Dogleg Crack and Classic Crack. Both are pretty physical but protect very well and can be toproped.

Since it looks like it is going to be wet again on the westside a trip to Vantage might be in the cards. Is the river access mentioned pretty easy to find?

Agreed, Child's books are all good. Really enjoyed Thin Air and Mixed Emotions. The Bonatti book is good too, serious hardman.

For Toxic Shock is Even Steven the hand cracks around the right of the layback start? It seemed that after the layback the rest was 5.8/5.8+. Definitely not as intimidating as Godzilla or Princely look although I wasn't leading.

I may in the minority but I like the Gun Show Wall at Exit 38 and the Corn & Millenium Wall at Vantage. Condorphine Addiction sounds like a fun route.

I think you have to distinguish between an accident and a conscience decision to to do something irresponsible. I don't care if you are trundling rocks, talking on your cell phone while driving, have one to many at the bar before driving home, discharge a firearm someplace you shouldn't etc. If you do something irresponsble that hurts or kills someone else you should be punished. As someone pointed out earlier we want these issues handled in our justice system, not by individuals. I would have a very hard time with some body walking away unpunished after kiling one of my family members. To think that someone is punished enough by having to "live" with the consequences of there actions assumes they might have learned from the irresponsible thoughtless actions they took in the first place.

Last I heard you need a BC and DL because there is too much of a back-up in both the US and Canada trying to get passports. This is only for driving, if you fly there I believe you have to have a passport.

Like Dru pointed out, 7+ plus years ago when our economy was on more solid footing the exchange rate was in the mid-60% range and the prices were more in line with U.S. prices. Now the exchange rate was 95% two weeks ago when I was up there. Canada shouldn't have to lower prices because our economy is a house of cards.

The plan my friend threw out was to spend 3 days at the pass and try to get as many routes in as reasonable. His list inlcuded NEWS NW Corner and West Face, SEWS DEB and the E. Face of Lexington. Together we have 2 each of the #3 & #4 Camalots and would probably each be willing to pick up one more big cam before then, just want to make sure we don't need more than that. Sounds like we don't. I saw the TR with the 2x4 on Lexington, good to know. If we aren't super motivated one day I was going to suggest the SW Face of SEWS, its fun and not very hard but I remember we had to essentailly climb the "Bear Hug" pitch unprotected since we didn't have big enough gear for it.

Thanks.

Cool, I think between us we have 2 - #4's and the smallest big bro. I'd heard you need as many as 2 - #5's for the offidth. We're also talking about the E. Face of Lexington so we we're thinking that between the 2 - #4's, maybe buy or borrow a #5 & #6. We don't have any #3.5's, I don't think they make them in the C4's so we may have to look into that.

Hey Matt, A friend and I are thinking about this route in August and are discussing gear. When you say big gear, how big and how many pieces do you think is reasonable? Both he and I are fairly conservative and as a general tend to throw in gear fairly often. Thanks

Diamond Knot is frickin awesome!!! I wouldn't turn down anything IPA from Deschutes, Bridgeport or Rogue. Snoqualmie makes a great IPA too. From Elysian I prefer the Immortal IPA. Pyramid's IPA is really good too! I love hoppy beer! I remember many years ago before it closed, I went to the Rogue Brewpub in Ashalnd. We were the only two in the joint and the guy behind the bar let sample just about everything they had on tap. Rogue Red was the winner IMO, great hoppy beer. Maritime makes a nice hoppy red beer too. The NW rocks for microbrews!

My current harness is a Petzl that weighs in over a pound and is bulky to pack, a 9 oz. harness would save over half a pound and I would like one for glacier climbs, just curious if folks have experience using them on moderate to easy rock routes.

Promountain has a couple of packs that are about 3,000 cu. in. and both under 3 lbs. Anyone have any experience with the Montbell Versalite 50 or or Go Lite Jam2? I'm looking for something to use on carryover rock climbs that is light and comfortable to climb with.