tazz

NICE! the shot of hells highway is awesome!! Good stuff. thanks

Yes. hah!! that's all ya got or its it sooo short cause you don't know how to answer a legit question without spraying? ok let me rephrase that for ya. Is it worth the "RISK"? I now it is worth it for speed. yes fas this is talking about C4 and low C5. With pro placed in between to two or how ever many folks. lancegranite, I think that is different than a lead taking the fall on C5. what was the fall like for you? plus if you are 200# and she is 120# wouldn't that make a huge difference especially if she is a second? would have been totally different if it was you who fell.

yes they were simul-climbing on terror. Not that they were wrong at all. they are ALL seasoned good climbers and shit can happen. It would be good to hear stephs thoughts on simul-climbing now. I don't want to make her pitch in here as i can understand the horror she went through and would not want to discuss it anymore. Totally understandable. No matter .... I hear and see soooo many folks in a hurry so they simul-climb. Even in simul-climbing you are somewhat protected with "GOOD" pro but your fall is much more violent and your partner is also subject to injury as they get jerked up. Right? I am one who is more careful due to the fact i have a kid. I like belays. I need to minimize the risk. Even then you are not totally immune to what the hills throw at us. You NEVER know!! NEVER!!! you can be as cocky and the BEST climber out there but if the mountains want you off they will give it to ya! I was close...like hours to maybe joining them on this trip but my plans came through for Tower and Golden Horn first. A third may have changed the scenario. thank goodness i was not there!! It would be interesting to hear the opinions from folks more on this. Many of you simul-climb for speed. Is it worth it? How many folks have had issues with falls on simul climbing on easy rock? oh and this is not a thread to bash the climbers in the accident or anyone's comments. So don't even think about it... !!! please, that is not what this is about. I am just wanting to open an adult conversation so i and others can learn more. I learn nothing and tune out with spray. please discuss so i and others can learn. I value the opinions of the good non-sprayers here thanks in advance.

Two friends of mine had a rockfall accident this past weekend. I climbed the Molar Tooth with them last month. These two are amazing wonderful people and very seasoned climbers. I am so glad they are ok!! Just goes to show even on 4th and low 5th things can happen and you can get screwed! Reality Check on Pica peak

warning!

you beet me too it Mal.

Ha! Did those muscles help you hike up it? too bad you didn't have better weather, the views are great from up there! After reading several trs where folks get off route on Tower. Figured i would post up a beta shot to lessen the confusion. We had no trouble at all with the route we took up which is the standard route. Many folks are naturally led into the LARGE gully to the left. this will lead to exposed class 4 slabs. All of this can be avoided by staying to the right and traversing back and forth on class 3 ledges. with some class 4 spots here and there. Once at the white wall traverse to the right. We took the ridge up some exposed class 3 and 4 rock. Careful in here the rock is scary loose in spots. We to the standard easier class 3 route down.

SWEEEEET!! I sooo enjoy your reports!! Glad you had a grewst time! Don, Randy and I were supposed to do this trip a few weeks ago but it did not work out. Thanks for your awesome reports and incredible pics!!

yeeehaw!!!

I don't have that "annoying wide tr syndrome". It all fits my screen. i will change it for ya though. thanks

Trip: Golden Horn and Tower Mountain. - standard Date: 9/26/2009Trip Report:Golden HornTowerMore than 75% of climbing/scrambling for me is the fun and good partners. This trip has topped off a great summer season for me. TONS of FUN with some of my best friends and partners. Here is a fun video of the blast we had….manamana!!! [video:vimeo] Untitled from anne arnoldy on Vimeo. What do you do when you want to avoid an 11 miles of boring trail? Bushwhack Swamp Creek of course. It is a lot more entertaining, challenging and shorter for saving the feet! Plus I love to bushwhack and route find, It is one of my specialties. The Bushwhack is strait forward and 3.5 miles from the trailhead/road to the lakes. Head up the east side of the creek following a ridge. Around 5000’ cross Swamp creek. Start the long steep traverse through forest and avalanche gullies till you reach the PCT below Methow Pass below or near Snowy lakes. In the bottom of the valley swap creek is quite marshy. By crossing at around 5000’ you avoid the wettest of the marshes. Most of the bushwhack is in the forest and you can move fairly quickly. Minus the swaths of alder and such that one may run into. After setting up camp we headed up to play on Golden Horn. Fun scramble with a short class 4/5 section to the small summit block. The wind was creating a nasty cold ass wind-chill on the summit so we didn’t stay long. We had quite the time back at camp with crab walk races, whiskey drinking, and manamana singing (that was continued into the next as we climbed Tower . Thanks Carla! ). The next morning it was 24 degrees out. Brrrrrr!!! Tower would warm us up and so did our new song we all sang at random hilarious moments (gotta have those random moments to break up the pucker factor that you can be taken out by a rock at any time!). Manamana! The climb up Tower is a lot of fun, despite the reports of how scary it is! Do do da do do… Mostly class 3 that is very exposed in most places with a few spots of class 4. Manamana! There is a lot of loose rock on the route but we moved very efficiently as a group of 5 and had no issues with rock fall minus some small stuff. Do do da do do… The route is easy to follow if you take your time and route find. This will avoid the class 4 slabs in the gully proper. Manamana! Stay to the right of the main gully proper and find many ledges to traverse. You will end up zig zagging a few times. Do do da do do…Good fun! We hung out on top for an hour and headed back to camp. Manamana! Time to play in the forest for a few hours. Do do da do do….We had no issues with our schwack on the way out. Crux: crossing the highway…Its all about the fun!!! Gear Notes:helmets for the constant rock being thrown in your direction by Tower.30m alpine rope for the summit block of Golden Horn. For some this would not even be required. We used my rope for the rap off and quick belays to the top. Approach Notes:I recommend Swamp to those who can bushwhack. But then many can't efficiently bushwhack. So pick your lesser evil. 11 miles of boring PCT hiking or thrashing your way up Swamp creek.

winter is a coming. video of an avalanche burial and rescue. Veiwed by the one IN the avalanche. WOW!! [video:vimeo] Avalanche Skier POV Helmet Cam Burial & Rescue in Haines, Alaska from Chappy on Vimeo.

It was from his awesome sloan climb

ok, I just lost my lunch! I didn't need the calories anyways...

good on you!! Someone mentioned this once already. I recommend NWhikers.net there are MANY folks who take their kids hiking, backpacking,scrambling, mountaineering, and climbing on that site. lots of trip reports with lots of pics. It is a great place to ask and read about ANY trail or peak. Not that this site is not good cause it is great. Just informing you of and expanding the wealth of knowledge to be found on online forums. good luck and hope to see ya on both sites posting your progress.

haha...this is good!

No rope needed for either peak 43 trip reports here for kaleetan and 6 or so on roosevelt

good work mark!! Your kicking ass this season!

Kick ass Dude!! I love the pics!

very enjoyable read.

josh this is a fun peak! you must be able to route find through the maze of paths and then find the best crossing of the NF sauk. This time of year you may be fine but I know folks who have had some ...lets say fun...hah crossing it when it is full. Don't make the mistake and try this one in a day unless you are in TOP shape! It would be a great overnight trip for you and a partner. great camping in the basin below the peak. like KKK said the glacier does have crevasses. Later in the year things open up. I think it also depend on the snow that the winter before. This is what it was like when i did it. Aug 2005 the rest is easy scrambling till the top then it is exposed C3 but VERY short on nice rock. If you ask me the gully just before the exposed scramble is the worst part especially on the descent. Don't underestimate this one, folks HAVE fallen and died up there. Oh and helmet is a must as the NF may try and throw some rock at ya! Klenke has a good page on SP for the peak and the route. Study it and dial in the route if your gonna go.

One of my fav places! in Aug 5 2005 that no name lake below west mac was ice free. I see the ice stuck around a bit longer this year in your pic. COOL! If I remember right 2005 was a low snow year...? How was the snow finger up to the West Mac scramble? It was more like a very long, thin, nasty snow bridge when we did it. Then a 20'-30' section collapsed about 15' to the ground with in a minute of us getting off of it. That made for a much more entertaining, very muddy, and slick descent to say the least. great pics and tr. Good work on Inspiration!

this is a great scramble. You don't see many trs on it especially here. glad your gal had a good time. Thanks for the pics.

whoooooaaaaa there Nelly!! Don't take what i said and run with it. look at it again! I just think if they are going to encourage, pat your back, and give you kudos for being silly and dangerous,OR give you internet tips, then they should step up and support your lack of knowledge by helping you gain that knowledge. No better place than rope up! Rope up is a fun social that is NOT for training JOSH or anyone for that matter. So don't take advantage Josh!!! you tend to do that!!

problem is buckaroo, is the poor kid has no rope, not enough gear and the gear he has is not adequate (well most). the poor kid has to duct tape his ill fitting crampons to his boots! MAYBE you all should invite him to rope up and teach him what he really needs. I just may show up for that. ;-) It take a village to teach josh folks ;-)