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Martyb

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Posts posted by Martyb


  1. My larger concerns about belaying in the hills are:

     

    That the theory of only employing a dynamic belay in the mountains, as told to me by books and friends, would be prone to human error when you are tired. That is it might work when you are fully awake and at the start of a climb but 20 hours into an ascent the idea that you would be awake enough to only let some rope slip through your belay device before applying friction seems false.

     

    It sounds like it is better to hold the belay device in a locked position.

     

    Marty


  2. Cool. Thanks for the replys.

     

    I'm trying to work out if a GriGri is 'the worst thing to use' - Quote from a New Zealand forum because of it's lack of dynamic belay.

     

    What do you think?

     

    I know in practice situations a GriGri is not as good as a dynamic belay but in a hard climb where you don't know when the climber is falling is it justified to use one?

     

     

    Marty


  3. Hi alpinists,

     

    I am trying to work out the best way to belay in an alpine situation.

     

    I have heard of and read about the 'dynamic belay'. I am wondering has anyone actually done this in a real climbing situation?

     

    The 'dynamic belay' is when you let the rope run through your hands when the climber falls before locking it off. I am not after people who have only practiced it - that is knowing that the climber is going to fall.

     

     

    Thanks,

     

    Marty

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