roboboy
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Posts posted by roboboy
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I haven't heard of any of those sites, but if you are into that sort of thing, you might pick up this book:
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Secor's Peak's, Passes & Trails is the most like a Beckey guide. It looks good at first glance but is a bit lacking in climb details, descent routes, etc. and it's hard to do climbs with it alone.
I think the best choices are the Peter Croft book and the Falcon guide by Moynier (Climbing California's High Sierra) which cover plenty of the best routes in decent detail.
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David Lynch
in Spray
Eraserhead is such a cool film, really imaginative. I have it on both vhs and dvd.
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I'm unprepared to resist that - aaarrrggghh !
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'Beaches' starring...?
if it's a film over "22" years old then I doubt if anyone would "catch" it.
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If the topic is Spray Sucks Today then so far everyone is staying right on topic. But that would mean that Spray Doesnt Suck Today. But if this is all Spray Is then Spray Sucks Today. Can anyone guess what movie I watched last night ?
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that will be robodouche to you, then - ha aha
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best TRs - Mike Layton (but there is only one M** Peak)
best (worst?) climbing sage - DirtyHarry
best photographic technique - Gary Yngve
most gung ho = most leader falls - catbirdseat (isn't there a career available in scientific testing of climbing pro ?)
best/coolest woman alpine climber - Kat Roslyn
most life threatening random encounter at the crags - archenemy
most appreciated newbie - Jamin
best climbing dog - Sage
best climbing partners - all
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the "sexual chocolate" angle doesn't sound like a good bet either.
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We put some wear on the seats of our pants on the downhill part though.
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This tribute thread may be short-lived but I have this from 2 weeks ago.
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Mt Adams sounds like a good idea for a high peak (or St Helens). Other than that, sounds like you are looking for a hiking ascent. Pick up a hiking guide and pick what you want to do.
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and I aint even a climber,
...and I really don’t like bolts on rock...I go down to the gym on occasion, mainly to check out chicks in prana tops and strive toward mediocrity. My only other hobby is posting on this bulls**t site.
thanks for the quotes to those concerned, I couldn't have said it better myself.
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Land managers typically...don't care about bolts
I've been to areas managed under the Oregon BLM and seen signs specifically asking climbers to not place bolts. This was in a very arid area where vegetation on rock didn't appear to be an issue (yeah I know, it's there, just not visible). So some agencies might care and others don't. It may also depend on the area itself and whether it's perceived as a possible problem based on the specifics of that area. So it's open for anyone to pursue but it may involve only a warning sign from an agency and climber peer pressure. There may not be any other way to actually "enforce" it in a lot of places anyway.
So wouldn't it make sense to post a sign at Castle Rock ? Even if not everyone agrees in no new bolts there, if any are placed they are always going to be chopped at that location. A sign might be informative and save more unnecesary drilling.
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I don't think you're going to find many rangers interested in adding bolt policing to their list of law enforcement duties
They could put up a sign in the parking lot.
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As far as chopping lots of bolts at established areas like Vantage, Deception crags, Mt Erie, Darrington I don't see that ever happening. The first 3 areas at least are often training areas and just because some climbers can lead routes without bolts isn't going to mean that lots of others are going to want to stop doing them with bolts.
If anyone wants to petition public agencies to stop bolting in mostly trad areas, particularly in alpine environments, I would support it.
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I would have said that a place locally that shouldn't become a sport climbing area is Washington pass area. I'm not that familiar with that many climbs there but maybe it already is.
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Gyms and bolted sport routes seem to have got a lot more people climbing than when climbing was mostly trad. One reason this is good is because there are a lot more people available to climb with and also a lot more variety of places to go to close by. I’ve never had weeks or months available to camp out at crags so under this new scenario it is possible to get enough climbing time in to allow doing some decent, if technically modest, longer alpine and crag climbs when I have the time.
It was the outdoor wilderness experience that got me climbing in the first place, and I really don’t like bolts on rock, but a lot of rock isn’t that special, geologically or scenically.
If Deception crags and Vantage weren’t developed for sport climbing then probably hardly anyone would ever go there or even look at the rock, so why not place bolts ? If anyone wants to look at basalt columns without bolts there’s plenty out there.
When I used to go to Smith when it was all trad there was a lack of worthwhile new climbs to try fairly soon. It’s a very beautiful area but not too climber friendly in its original state so to me it’s a tossup whether it was developed. But Oregon definitely could use more climbs compared to other western states.
I don’t like the way there are so many bolts at Icicle canyon in order to exploit every possible route variation. It’s a beautiful place and geologically part of the beloved Stuart range but the canyon itself is mostly lacking in any really unique or impressive rock formations. The bottom line there may be that the growing numbers of climbers are going to need all those (bolted) Icicle routes to find room to climb, either already or soon, so it may as well be developed.
Having been to Joshua Tree and Tuolumne I think it’s commendable that there has been so much restraint in placing bolts on routes there where the landscapes and formations are so unique and beautiful, national park calibre.
Cragging this week
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
what was wrong with this ?