roboboy
-
Posts
474 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by roboboy
-
-
Yeah it was a fun route and we were thinking it might be the last day to get in a good climb for awhile.
-
Trip: Molar Tooth - West Face - FA - II 5.8
Date: 9/26/2007
Trip Report:
This is one of those faces in the North Cascades that is hard to get a look at from popular destinations. Last spring I viewed it from 4 miles away and recognized the profile as seen from the Cutthroat Lake side (but in reverse). I thought that there was probably something to climb there although I couldn't make any detail. Yesterday I went to take a look at it with James Hamaker.
We intended to hike up the drainage shown on the Green Trails map but we never found it. Instead we ascended the forested rib east from where the PCT crosses Porcupine Creek and this took us fairly efficiently up to about 7000 ft.
At this point we weren't sure exactly what was the summit of Molar Tooth, let alone what we should try to climb and the clouds blowing across the mountain tops weren't helping matters. We decided to traverse south, climbing class 3 over one rib of rock and traversing steep slabs around the base of the next. Up a bit and we found a clean 40 ft slab that we scrambled up to set a belay at a small larch tree (center of photo):
James led up some easy 5th class then traversed to the right where there was an exposed 5.7 move around the corner (under the smooth bulge). There were some loose handholds here but solid ones could be found. He belayed closely above at a dead tree.
The next pitch started up a chimney (poor rock but easy):
Above was some 5.8 face climbing and an interesting boulder-pedestal with a fist crack behind it. This involved climbing up one side using the crack then descending the other side to get back on route, not that hard, but awkward. There was a loose rectangular block at the base that I considered trundling but it was OK to stand on with downward pressure only.
Some more 5.8 led to a low angle heathery section. James was eager to lead and I didn't argue as I would have taken longer on the harder moves.
Above were some cool slab overlaps. James went straight up and was able to place pro in a crack at the steep part (5.5):
We were heading for the gap between the two apparent high points seen from the start but weren't sure where the actual summit was. There was a chimney with overhanging chockstone at the end of this 3rd pitch that went at about 5.7. Above this the summit was an easy scramble. The clouds had cleared and the scenery was great:
We descended by the normal rappel route down the north ridge.
The rock on this route was good. There were some loose potential holds but they could be avoided. There seemed to be less black lichen than on the north ridge and east face. We didn't see any signs of previous ascents on this climb.
Robert Campbell
Gear Notes:
50m rope, medium rack up to #3 cam
-
I don't know. I was just quoting exactly what they told us. In our case, if we didn't have passport or voter registration, it sounded like we wouldn't get through. It seemed like the VR was a last resort concession. Maybe Sumas is pickier than Blaine.
-
I crossed at Sumas several weeks ago. They said a passport was needed. My rider didn't have one but they let him through with a voter registration card as the only other thing they would accept. They said a driver's license isn't enough. I think there is a good chance that you won't get through without a passport.
-
I remembered something from somewhere - Roper guide to Yosemite
-
Bellingham is just plain ugly. And you will have to suffer endlessly through the long, dark, dismal winter.
-
I have to give credit to the first ascensionist for taking the trouble to solicit opinions before taking any action. That's way beyond what many would do, especially in an active and passionate forum such as this one. A thick hide is oftentimes more essential here than on runout slab
I think Mark W should also feel good that he did a route and most (or even all) people think that it was decently done. Probably anyone could go up there after the fact and think of a bit better way to place bolts. I don't think there is any intent to criticize him in any way.
-
It depends on whether you are allowed to use the original bolts to climb the route in order to do the job and whether, after successfully arriving at the top, you are still interested enough to want to bother spending any more time with it
-
I would also add that since the normal start to R&D to the left of cocaine connection is available to do the R&D route at a grade easier(5.6) with excellent natural pro, no one is obligated to use cocaine connection to do R&D. As far as runout routes, I've seen lots of others more runout at harder grades elsewhere that see lots of ascents and are even "classics".
-
No
The route is not unduly runout for the grade and is not a problem for a 5.7 leader.
Agreed. I'm not a very bold leader and I don't have a problem leading that. Leave it alone. That's my vote anyway.
-
I thought maybe the umbrella tree was gone but there is a bushy flat-topped pine tree, jutting out at an angle high on the wall above the end of the white slabs route. It is only visible from certain aspects from the ground. Fred's opinion was that trees are there for a long time and it is highly unlikely that the umbrella tree could be gone. I think that it is probably hard to see from anywhere when climbing on the wall below.
My favorite question: "When you did outer space, did you know the final crack was there, or did you discover it when you got up there?" - WHAT?...(repeat question louder) - YEAH!.
"In your North Cascades bio, the climbs list ends in 1968. When are you going to add a listing of the next 40 years' climbs?" - WHAT? WORKING ON SOMETHING ELSE.
"When you first climbed around Leavenworth did you have to clean the routes much?" - NO, HARDLY AT ALL. (Those were the days).
-
Trip: Leavenworth Rock - A punk meets the Godfather
Date: 5/19/2007
Trip Report:
A party of five met in Leavenworth on Saturday morning for some cragging.
We went to a nearby crag to do some sport climbs. We had no trouble finding routes to do with just a few other climbers around.
....hmmm....oh well.
Eighty years old plus and cranking 5.8 climbs. Love this guy and loved him for my whole life.
We finished at that crag and moved on to another 5.8 route.
The next day three people were left and we sorted gear for Snow Creek wall.
Seventy years of experience leads to perfect balance crossing Snow Creek.
For a variety of reasons we didn't end up doing much climbing but it was sort of a pilgrimage as we spent an hour or two at the base, scoping out and discussing routes. "Is the umbrella tree still there ?" "Hey, there it is !"
Rest is also good.
-
the string of curses I let loose was inexcusable
It may have been inexcusable but it was definitely worthwhile and entertaining
-
maybe it was someone who likes to use passive pro only (and no TCUs)
-
The failed first ascent but "someone should go get after this" troll.
-
Some more, mainly for kevb, never let it be said that I don't post enough pics.
-
Trip: Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall, etc
Date: 4/5/2007
Trip Report:
James mysteriously disappeared for the winter but when he re-emerged from ? we quickly decided on a road trip to northern California.
The first day we did Mt Hubris, Cosmic wall, recently reported on by some others.
2nd pitch
3rd pitch:
Back on the ground.
The next morning we scrambled to the top of Castle Dome. The clean white granite slabs were fun and super grippy with rock shoes.
After that we went to Six Toe rock and did some routes. The climbs here seemed like typical moderately high angle granite climbing with continuous cracks systems with jams and laybacks.
James led 2-pitch Six Toe crack:
On the third day it rained so we retrieved our gear and headed home but glad to get in two great days of climbing.
-
No man is an island
"he's a peninsula" - Jefferson Airplane
-
Mike, if you can find a place I think you would find Ballard or Green Lake the most interesting. Surrounding neighborhoods like Wallingford, Fremont, Greenwood, etc are a bit less desirable but OK, still close to the fun.
-
I moved out of the city to the suburbs where it is less congested, less expensive, 10 minutes or so from Lake City. My area is not much good for entertainment or restaurants but on weekends and nights after work it really isn't a problem going anywhere in Seattle or the eastside I want. The bike trail near Lake Washington is only a mile away. There are several climbing gyms around and I usually drive to Ballard if I want to climb, 30-35 min. drive at night. If heading to the mountains access is good, I'm already out of the city.
-
I think just about everywhere mentioned in Seattle is good for what you are looking for. Maybe try to locate close to where you will be working to make your commute easier.
-
fun for a 30 year old single climber who is poor
Enumclaw
-
I don't care how months there are in a calendar, I still vote to not discard any photos. Make it a multi-year calendar or two photos per month.
-
I like AMS.......HOT!.....
[TR] Red Rocks - Photos 10/22/2007
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted
Trip: Red Rocks - Photos
Date: 10/22/2007
Trip Report:
Black Velvet canyon:
Frogland:
Pine creek canyon:
Dark Shadows:
Self-contained traveling dirtbag setup:
Brass wall:
Sport climbing:
Farewell to Red Rocks: