roboboy

In the "old" days there were no climbing gyms and hardly any bolted climbs, other than Peshastin. Most climbers needed to start out trad climbing if they were going to climb at all, maybe after some toproping at somewhere like Erie. People were happy to be doing climbs like Midway, Saber and Cat Burglar starting out and got familiar with basic techniques in lower risk situations. Now with gyms and so many bolted sport routes people can safely get to 5.9-5.10 difficulty level without learning trad techniques which can get them into trouble on similarly rated multipitch trad. So there may not be an easy answer to this, gyms and bolted climbs aren't going away and people are going to get into trouble and accidents will happen. Discussion of incidents on public forums like this is a useful warning and will undoubtedly help.

It was also fun seeing a familiar face at the Marblemount RS, Gary Yngve. I offered to sell him mosquito repellent but received only an evil stare. Hope your climb went well, Gary.

Climb: McMillan Spire-West Ridge Date of Climb: 7/2/2006 Trip Report: Yesterday I climbed this with relentless alpine peak bagger Rod Xuereb. There's plenty of beta on this area and the climb itself is straightforward so this is mostly just photo coverage. The conditions are near perfect right now with consolidated snow above 5000 ft making for easier travel. The approach to Terror basin took us a hard 8 1/2 hours but another party did it in 7. Terror basin camp: Approaching McMillan Spire: Usual shots of climbers approaching Inspiration Peak via Terror glacier: Summit views: Inspiration Peak: Southern Pickets: Northern Pickets: Redoubt/Bear/Luna: View south: Mt Triumph: McMillan descent: We were back in camp about 11 am and decided to leave our idyllic, scenic campsite to hike out and get it over with (being the jaded alpine peak baggers that we are). The hike out then took 6 hours. This is the easiest Pickets approach but still difficult. I last climbed this peak in 1986 and am amazed that I ever made it back, but probably for the last time. I think I would at least go for a different peak in the Pickets if I'm going to hike that far. Gear Notes: ice axe, crampons, took 30m rope-didn't use it

Beautiful photos and report, thanks for sharing it.

but watch out for possibly painful hoof kicks to the groin.

if they don't run like hell from this crowd, they're hopelessly lost.

no, food is better for sharing with lost hikers in short skirts.

Also a problem with bringing food and a sheep is you would then have to spend valuable time deciding which to do with each.

you're welcome to let it go in my yard, also. There's water and no kids for it to bother. But it would probably end up in Lake Washington anyway.

let it go in Green lake or Lake Washington. Probably most of the species there are non-native anyway. The only way it could make a difference is if it finds more like itself, then...there you go.

well, that IS hard to beat.

I think Mike wins that one.

get better Kurt, I've never met you but you're missed

I have the single disc I was never convinced that 2 more discs of layla studio sessions in a box had any merit. Tower records also has a Japanese import, might be good.

PP, I purchased the Layla 20th anniversary edition cd which puts it's release at 1990 and I always thought it sounded fine. The US vinyl was on Atco label whose 70s pressings usually sound crappy. If it's the RSO vinyl reissue there's no hope. This cd remastering hype seems a lot of times to be a sales gimmick to get people to buy the latest and greatest version when it isn't necessarily so. Seems to me in general that anything called remastered after the mid 80s when most new recordings were issued on cd anyway is usually just a reissue of the same source which they would have used on the first release. Remastered cd recordings that were originally vinyl (up to mid 80s) can end up being just about anything in quality and it's hard to know without listening unless you can find info on the internet. But usually remastered should mean good.

I would agree that Good Food is only worth considering if you want to eat right away at Marblemount. Otherwise go on to one of the other restaurants.

Bill, count yourself as one of the fortunate. I find myself discussing pointless banalities with strangers that are taking over my life at my job while I'm trying to manage an ever burgeoning workload on my desk from this site right in front of me.

It's hard to argue with Fred.

old thread sedro wooley eating Also the "Good Food" burgers, shakes & fries at Marblemount can taste pretty good after a climb. marblemount fast food

goodbye MisterE, but just remember, you were a winner.

YOU MIGHT FARE WORSE THAN EITHER A MOSQUITO BITE OR A PINCH BY WEARING A SHORT SKIRT AT INDEX, THOUGH.

last weekend I used a double fisherman's knot to join a 9.6 and an 8 for rappel and we lucked out, it worked. I don't know why it wouldn't work with a 10.8 and a 7, try it at home. back up each rope end with another double fisherman's knot. the knots did pull fairly tight but that was good and not really much of a problem untying them.

maybe something to do with this

I would suggest vertical world June thru October