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Everything posted by roboboy

  1. Fairly stupid post about Fred Beckey

  2. Frogland - III 5.8, 7p. There is one bolt on the first pitch (shown) and another on the slab below the roof in the second photo (3rd or 4th pitch). I think those are the only two bolts on the route.
  3. the best belay slave is the one taking the most megapixels
  4. Yeah it was a fun route and we were thinking it might be the last day to get in a good climb for awhile.
  5. us/canada border crossing

    I don't know. I was just quoting exactly what they told us. In our case, if we didn't have passport or voter registration, it sounded like we wouldn't get through. It seemed like the VR was a last resort concession. Maybe Sumas is pickier than Blaine.
  6. us/canada border crossing

    I crossed at Sumas several weeks ago. They said a passport was needed. My rider didn't have one but they let him through with a voter registration card as the only other thing they would accept. They said a driver's license isn't enough. I think there is a good chance that you won't get through without a passport.
  7. Trip: Leavenworth Rock - A punk meets the Godfather Date: 5/19/2007 Trip Report: A party of five met in Leavenworth on Saturday morning for some cragging. We went to a nearby crag to do some sport climbs. We had no trouble finding routes to do with just a few other climbers around. ....hmmm....oh well. Eighty years old plus and cranking 5.8 climbs. Love this guy and loved him for my whole life. We finished at that crag and moved on to another 5.8 route. The next day three people were left and we sorted gear for Snow Creek wall. Seventy years of experience leads to perfect balance crossing Snow Creek. For a variety of reasons we didn't end up doing much climbing but it was sort of a pilgrimage as we spent an hour or two at the base, scoping out and discussing routes. "Is the umbrella tree still there ?" "Hey, there it is !" Rest is also good.
  8. Stories/Memories of Mike Borghoff?

    I remembered something from somewhere - Roper guide to Yosemite
  9. Considering Bellingham...

    Bellingham is just plain ugly. And you will have to suffer endlessly through the long, dark, dismal winter.
  10. cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts

    I think Mark W should also feel good that he did a route and most (or even all) people think that it was decently done. Probably anyone could go up there after the fact and think of a bit better way to place bolts. I don't think there is any intent to criticize him in any way.
  11. cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts

    It depends on whether you are allowed to use the original bolts to climb the route in order to do the job and whether, after successfully arriving at the top, you are still interested enough to want to bother spending any more time with it
  12. cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts

    I would also add that since the normal start to R&D to the left of cocaine connection is available to do the R&D route at a grade easier(5.6) with excellent natural pro, no one is obligated to use cocaine connection to do R&D. As far as runout routes, I've seen lots of others more runout at harder grades elsewhere that see lots of ascents and are even "classics".
  13. cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts

    Agreed. I'm not a very bold leader and I don't have a problem leading that. Leave it alone. That's my vote anyway.
  14. I thought maybe the umbrella tree was gone but there is a bushy flat-topped pine tree, jutting out at an angle high on the wall above the end of the white slabs route. It is only visible from certain aspects from the ground. Fred's opinion was that trees are there for a long time and it is highly unlikely that the umbrella tree could be gone. I think that it is probably hard to see from anywhere when climbing on the wall below. My favorite question: "When you did outer space, did you know the final crack was there, or did you discover it when you got up there?" - WHAT?...(repeat question louder) - YEAH!. "In your North Cascades bio, the climbs list ends in 1968. When are you going to add a listing of the next 40 years' climbs?" - WHAT? WORKING ON SOMETHING ELSE. "When you first climbed around Leavenworth did you have to clean the routes much?" - NO, HARDLY AT ALL. (Those were the days).
  15. Tieton - Royal Columns Ratings

    It may have been inexcusable but it was definitely worthwhile and entertaining
  16. [TR] Safe Sex on Green Giant Buttress 5/8/2007

    maybe it was someone who likes to use passive pro only (and no TCUs)
  17. Trolling Templates

    The failed first ascent but "someone should go get after this" troll.
  18. [TR] Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall, etc 4/5/2007

    Some more, mainly for kevb, never let it be said that I don't post enough pics.
  19. Music for Peter Puget, especially

    This is a cool site I found where you can listen to 60s-80s live concert recordings, makes great at-work cubicle listening. wolfgang's vault It is streaming audio, which does have annoying interruptions and I've had better luck on some concerts than others, but it is free. Downloads in better quality are to be available soon though there will be a charge for them. A lot of this stuff has been available but rarely in this quality, from the master tapes.
  20. A question for you men

    "he's a peninsula" - Jefferson Airplane
  21. Good neighborhoods to live in seattle

    Mike, if you can find a place I think you would find Ballard or Green Lake the most interesting. Surrounding neighborhoods like Wallingford, Fremont, Greenwood, etc are a bit less desirable but OK, still close to the fun.
  22. Good neighborhoods to live in seattle

    I moved out of the city to the suburbs where it is less congested, less expensive, 10 minutes or so from Lake City. My area is not much good for entertainment or restaurants but on weekends and nights after work it really isn't a problem going anywhere in Seattle or the eastside I want. The bike trail near Lake Washington is only a mile away. There are several climbing gyms around and I usually drive to Ballard if I want to climb, 30-35 min. drive at night. If heading to the mountains access is good, I'm already out of the city.
  23. Good neighborhoods to live in seattle

    I think just about everywhere mentioned in Seattle is good for what you are looking for. Maybe try to locate close to where you will be working to make your commute easier.
  24. Good neighborhoods to live in seattle

  25. the queens of spray

    I don't care how months there are in a calendar, I still vote to not discard any photos. Make it a multi-year calendar or two photos per month.