Slog

5-18 to 5-20 Last Saturday -Sun -Mon

Hi all: The weather window was a little late. Here is the story Whiteout: Got to Paradise about 11AM registered and headed into a sloppy mess. Whiteout conditions with snow fall to 9000 feet. At 9000 the clouds lay beneath us and we took pictures while enjoying the final 1000 feet up to Muir. Arrived about 7 PM ( long trip to Muir) There was room in the Stone Hut at Muir so we stayed there. We were very tired and had no chance for making a midnight summit bid so we slept in. Got up about 8 AM and started leisurely heading to Ingraham flats. Note: The Ranger asked us to move our stuff because a Chinook Airship was coming in but could not give details) Right before the Flats we ran in to a Pretty buff looking young lady in a sleeveless T-shirt with a full sleave of Tats. She was coming down. Did you summit I asked. "No we did Libery Ridge and we are minus one right now due to an avalanche" she continued quickly down. That explains the Chinook that passed over 30 minutes later.Got to the Flats and Darrians feet were sore. I worked on them for about 40 minutes and she said she wanted to go on up. We went up. I was pleased that so many teams and Guide group recognised us as a Daddy Daughter team and offered so much support. Darrian got to experience high exposure getting on to the Cleaver. The small ledge while wearing crampons with a 1000 foot drop below. I remember my first time experiencing that. On the Nose of the cleaver there were about 6 full ropes of hand line straight up. I hadn't seen this directness before. It was kind of fun. The entire Cleaver was snow and very direct. I made a mental note that it would be trouble getting back down to the hand lines with the route being so direct especially since it would be dark then. I started to question the safety of summiting at sunset with a 14 year old. At the top of the cleaver we saw the guide groups we had been shadowing. We rested. I thought we were done. It was 4 PM when we started up. Darrian made the choice. In retrospect never let 14 year old girls shame you into going up high when you as the leader and father are totally responsible. The Upper Mountain: We started slowly and crossed a very nice crevasse at 12,800 by walking on a 2x6 not bad for me but makes your heart pitter patter to watch your daughter do it. Onward- Came across a ladder laid across a crevasse I don't like crossing ladders with crampons- it was stable. Darrian crab walked it on her behind with out issue. Again I made a note: This will be dicey coming down in the dark being more tired. At this point we are in the sun shadow and its starting to get cold. The route switchbacks and eventually we can see the Summit rocks with bright sunlight behind them and plumes of spindrift dancing all over the place. I pucker a little knowing what that wind and cold feels like. Darrian is very tired. Summit fever has us both. Turning back is not an option however some of my other options are beginning to seem unrealistic We cleared the summit rim and dropped into the crater. Oh my God we did it. I am standing on top of Rainier with my 14 year old daughter. The guides check in with us and ask about our options. I had thought about staying and waiting till sunrise however we each had all 6 layer of clothing on and it was cold and very windy it was time to leave now. I had promised Darrian a nice long break on top but after the summit feaver ended at the top, reality came crashing down. Its sunset and getting cold, the wind has really picked up. My Daughter is exausted, Im at 65% but know its all on me to get us home. Let's go! "Dad you said I could have a long break and find a good rock". Bang I hit a large rock with my ice ax sparks go flying and a small chunk lays on the the snow. "There's your rock lets go" "Dad " "Come on" Down: It feels good to start down. You get in a wind shadow and the travel gives rest to the tired uphill muscles. We make good time and it quickly gets dark.Interesting side note. we both puked within five minutes of each other right before dark. ;-) We switch on head lamps previously mounted on our helmets. Darrian's goes out but I have a spare. Spare goes out. Oops the spares use a smaller battery size. my bad. I question my judgement in bringing my daughter up.....Re-evaluating She is exhausted. Staying put is not a good option. Heading down with one headlamp is a risk. In my mind I have put my daughter in greater risk than I intended... The normal thing to do would be to put the least experience person first on a short rope and head down that way the more experienced climber has control however; we are short one light and Darrian is reliant on me Decision: I short Roped Darrian very close behind me I know what you thinking but here is the idea. We needed the comfort of being close. There is enough light from the moon that if she is close she can see exactly where I step. If I look straight down my light illuminates her path too. We are close enough to feel any slipping and I let her slide into me when she needs to. This turns out to be an outstanding way to safely get down the cleaver. We reach the fixed lines with no problems. I am glad it is night and Darrian cant see the exposed ledge off the Cleaver. Finally we are off the cleaver. Oh Ya. She is still exhausted We are on the Flat area between The nose of DC and Ingraham flats. Darrian can only go a short way and wants to rest. NOT gonna happen. This is the site on one of the worst accidents ever on Rainier and Its all I can think of. Darrian sits in the snow and does not want to get up. Mean Dad: "Darrian I have put you in danger that I never intended to, I am sorry, I love you please forgive me but GET UP your moving, no more breaks. Poor thing didn't understand, she thought she wanted to rest, I knew she needed to get to camp. We went slow but I pulled her on the rope, I kept going when she slipped. Camp Muir: We got to Muir at 2AM I quickly got her gear off and put her in her sleeping bag. She was out in a minute. I relaxed for the first time in hours. Safe: We woke up to a beautiful day. the sun was shining I knew Darrian had a tough day ahead. Her feet were Hamburger I fixed them up as much as possible. I put as much of the gear in my pack as I could to lighten her load. Still, its a long way when your tired and your feet hurt that bad. We got to the car about 2 PM and headed home Epilog: Darrian told her friens I was mean. Would she do it again. "YES" Me "I dunno" Let amnesia set in a little

I was wondering if the Guides are putting in the DC Route this week. I am going up to Ingraham flats with my teenage daughter as a training trip and wanted to take her on to the cleaver if possible. I call the Park and RMI but no answer PS Olyclimber are you still alive?

Sent PM Short notice

I have Enchantment pass June 21 and 22 for 2 people. I want to trade with someone for later in July or August. Call me 425 205-0076 Ya I know this doesn'y really go here.

I'm being invited on a hike from Washington pass to Steheiken in September. Will someone please point me to some good info on this hike?

Believe me when I say that I have I have been replaying this over in my mind to try and learn from it. The top team had placed 1 picket. It popped out. Maybe they were getting ready to place more?? My friends were keeping 0 slack in the rope and that is how they were able to arrest without pro. They were almost to the Shrund and it was a tiny bit softer there

Climb: Hood accident- Date of Climb: 6/17/2006 Trip Report: The weather cleared about 9pm Friday the 16 just as predicted. However; instead of partly cloudy it was crystal clear, colder and windier than predicted. This made for easy travel all the way to the Hogsback. Just before the Hogsback we noticed that things got very icy. We roped up and went around the burgshrund to the right. Immediately we were pelted with oblong ice cubes about the size of the first 2 knuckles of my pointing finger. Thousands of them showering down like a broken chandelier coming down the chutes from the Pearly Gates. This would stop and start with the wind above and continued to the summit. You had to keep your eyes down so they would hit the helmet. There was hardly any crampon purchase and the Mountain appeared to have a clear coat of very sharp ice. Stopping a fall or self arrest seemed rather unlikely, great care not to fall seemed like the best answer. I was wondering if there was a better way down. This was manageable going up but the descent was heavy on my mind. We Summitted without mishap and there were about 15 people on top, mostly two large guided groups. These groups actually opted to use a belayed down climb to the west It took them a long time but was safe. Jon, Carl and I headed down. There were a few butterflies in my stomach knowing what was ahead. I decided that I would use a ski pole in my lower hand and ice ax in the upper mountain side and always have 3 points of contact with the slope. Painfully slow as it was I believe it was the safest way for me to go. After much anxiety we made it past the bergshrund and to the Hogsback where we rested and watched the other teams behind us. It gets a little foggy here but we were watching our other rope team of three come down. Jesse slipped; Doug and Wayne were able to arrest the fall. Around that same time a lower team slid and was able to arrest. It’s a serious thing to watch your friends dug in face down on an icy slope ropes taunt between everyone. No one moved for the longest time. There was nothing to do to help. Slowly people started to get to their feet and just then a group high above them peels off the mountain. Picket, crampons and ice axes flying towards my friends. They hit my buddies at maximum velocity and everyone moved but miraculously my friends stayed in there arrest position as I watched the 3 man team from above fall over 500 feet bouncing and flailing like rag dolls. Luckily they missed the crevasse at the bergshrund and slowly came to rest in the Devils kitchen. Two guys in rescue jackets were off in a flash, they had been sitting next to me. They attended the totally still team of three. There was much confusion higher up. They could not just jump up and we could not just go assist them. Three experienced teams had just fallen. Jon, Carl and I waited with much anxiety as teams slowly got up and seemed ok. Jesse, Jon’s father was up there. The two rescue guys were attending the fallen 3 and our guys arrived eventually arrived at the Hogsback. Jesse held out a frayed rope!(see the video clip at katu.com) The rope had either been severed or broke under the impact. Jesse hugged his son Jon and wept. Knowing our team was safe Carl Jon and I ran down to assist with the others. There was blood everywhere. Doug later said that from the Hogsback he thought someone had wanded the crash site with red flags. It was blood. The faces of the 3 were unrecognizable caked with drying blood. We helped in whatever ways the more medically experience people asked us to do, holding heads still, keeping them warm, boiling water anything. Before long there were quite a few people around many with medical experience. One of our guys seemed to be in shock. We helped him and did what we could. The helicopter was not going to come for a long time. I asked if they were able to drink water. A completely blood encrusted face stuck a tongue out. The medic nodded yes so I poured some warm water in and could tell he needed more I gave him a little more and said “I’ve been praying for you”. I was very shocked to hear “thanks I’ve been praying too”. Surprisingly he asked where do you go to church. I told him and we talked. I knew he would be ok. I went to the most severely injured and he also wanted water but I was a little worried because he was so bad off, he had broken bones, his helmet was shattered so probable head injuries and numerous other issues. I wet his lips with some water and them he opened his mouth for more. I gave him warm water. This was all very disturbing. I put my down jacket on the other one who was now sitting and shivering. There was plenty of help around now so we decided to leave. We left contact info with the rescue workers to get our gear back that they still needed. We headed down. Wayne and Jesse admitted to being quite traumatized and were acting strange. We kept a close eye on them. Jesse ended up going ahead of us later explained that he was overcome with emotion and wanted to weep in private. One last note. After the morning’s events I was emotionally spent. I had stashed skis 2.5 miles from the lodge and was looking forward to skiing down to the car. Jesse beat me there and in being the nice guy he is he unburied both Doug’s and my skis. One of mine fell over and skied off into oblivion down into a glacial moraine. We all walked the last 2.5 mile together. ;-)

Before you roast me, I know I'm a dirtly little climber for using a Cat to get up a ski area. That being said, I have a cat reserved for 3 AM saturday June 17th at Timberline. I have room for 3 or 4 more climbers. PM me if interested

Refocus Mates!Question? 2 of our group wants to go up Cooper Spur and carry over to Timberline. How long do you think it take to drive from Timberline to the Trailhead for Cooper Spure? We will have to pick up their vehicle

I think I'll get the permit. another question? 2 of our group wants to go up cooper spur and carry over to Timberline. How long do you think it take to drive from Timberline to the Trailhead for Cooper Spure? We will have to pick up their vehicle.

Remember when Winter arrived on Hood last year? It was about this time 1 year ago (Day before Easter last year) me and my buds got our asses handed to us on the easiest Hood route. Now with much less chest beating and slightly pissed we will sneek up on her and try again this weekend. We just wanna stand on top now, no interesting variations :-) Where should we sleep when we pullin to timerline around 10pm? I dont want a ticket so whats the process? Do we need snow shoes this weekend? Couple of pickets? Whats this rumor of snow cat rides to the top of the ski lift? ( That ought get me called a pussy) Thanks Neoday3

Stunning Photos as always Mike.. thanks. Can you post the updated climbing conditions here since they are having problems as you said back east. What is the condition of the Hut at Muir? Is it underneath all this snow?

One interesting equipment note. My Jetboil stove worked perfectly on the Summit. Anyone else use those up high?

Its important to note that my parka is rated around 0 degrees so between the 40 degree bag the parka and the Bivy sack I was very safe. The altitude was definely a problem for me. I had wanted to explore the vents but I was just not up to it.I had delusions of finding the underground lake in Gator's book. Bruce on the other hand circumnavigated the rim and had me take several pictures of him playing frisbe.

Yep Thats your Gib Ledges Bruce! He has gained a lot of expierience this season. That was his 4th Summit this year. He has sharpened his Crampons and is in terrific shape. He said you and Andy taught him a lot. He was a solid partner on this trip. No liability.

Climb: Mt Rainier-DC with Overnight in the crater Date of Climb: 8/8/2005 Trip Report: Rainier Trip report 8/08/05 ( No epic here! Just a satisfying trip) The first time I attempted to climbed Rainier I was successful. I thought it was always that easy. Since then I have failed 5 times due to circumstances beyond my control. This would be my last chance this year. Bruce and I started out from Paradise at 8 PM Sunday evening August 7th. The sky was clear and temp was into the 70’s. The Sun was setting by Pebble creek. We enjoyed a beautiful Orange sunset. The 8th of a moon was low in the sky with one bright star to its left. I filled a water bottle in the stream and changed from my running shoes to my heavy boots. We headed up the Muir snowfield in no hurry. Somewhere along the way we turned on our headlamps. We saw only a couple of people along the way. 5 and a half hours into the climb we reached Muir. A little slow but we were in no hurry. The camp at Muir was closed for remodeling so we melted snow over by RMI. It was hard to find clean snow this late. We lingered for an hour or so and headed up for Ingraham flats. No wind at all. Nice. We passed over a large number of skinny crevasses on the Cowlitz. I think 7 or 8. We decided to unrope at Cathedral Gap. It’s pretty quick with only two guys. I think it’s easier and just as safe. The rope was re-clipped at the top of the gap and we made easy progress to the flats. 4:30 am at the flats. We could see climbers on the cleaver and higher on the mountain. Got in the Bivy and slept. Around 6:30 am I thought that my Bivy had burst into flame it was so hot. When the Sun hits the flats, sleep is over. I looked over to Bruce and he was up too. We hadn’t figured on only 2 hours sleep here. We got up and really took our time eating and getting ready for a slow climb. We knew that we would be slow because we were carrying full packs to the summit. A few times a year the conditions are good enough that even inexperienced climbers like us can safely camp on the Summit. That was our plan. The weather report was in complete cooperation. Clear skies and temps in the 80’s in Seattle. Not sure what time we left. This was the first time I had gone up the Cleaver in the daylight. Its nasty yes, but, well its just nasty. We rested at the top of the cleaver. Upon leaving the cleaver, I was surprised how far we had to traverse right to get around the big crevasses be for heading for the summit. It was hot and sunny. No wind and not a cloud in sight. I was comfortable in an unzipped fleece jacket the whole way. We came to the crater rim at mid morning.We had come from sea level to 14,000+ in a very short time and I was feeling it. My appetite was gone and I was some what queasy. We were in the crater alone. About 4:30 pm we set up camp which consisted of throwing the bivies on the snow. Still no wind. We could see the shadow crossing the crater. As soon as the shade hit us it got very cold. I decide to turn in early. About 6:30. I was hoping that I could gag down a cliff bar or 2 and drink enough water to get rid of the queasies. This was a dream of mine, to camp over night on the Summit of Mt Rainier. In short it got pretty cold. Because we carried everything to the summit, I had only brought a 1lb 40 degree bag so I put on my fleece jacket and down parka. I awoke about once an hour to adjust for the cold. My water bottle froze solid. I slept for a surprising 9 hours! I still felt bad in the morning and tried to force myself to eat a cup of Bruce’s spaghetti but I couldn’t. I asked Bruce to boil me some snow for water since I was out of fuel. He did, in the same pot he had made the spaghetti. He didn’t bother to clean the pot out. It was quite chunky water. I needed it though. We welcomed the Summiters as they came up. I didn’t want to use the energy but I forced myself to the sign in Book and on to Columbia Crest. On the way down my water quickly thawed and I quickly discarded the water Bruce had made for me. Yuck! We headed down in bright sunlight all the way. On the cleaver the balling became dangerous but the transitions from snow to rock were often icy so we kept the crampons on knocking snow balls off every other step. I fell once on the cleaver from the balling but Bruce was keeping a tight lease just for that reason. Bruce broke through the crevasse at top of Ingraham flats just leaving the Cleaver. I was down hill from him leading so there was know chance of him slipping very far. I outweigh him by 50 lbs. There were lots of people at Muir on the way down. I put my running shoes back on at Pebble Creek and enjoyed the rest of the walk down.

Im Heading to Muir Friday morning. Its going to be hot Should I bring my Snowshoes or not

I heard from a friend that there is a 90 foot vertical section (actually 70 to 80 degrees) on the Ingraham Direct route at around 12,000 feet. That there is a solid Picket 90 feet up at the top. Does any one know if there is a way around? Is this the way RMI is taking this weekend (or Last). Anyone Summit via ID last weekend?

I see that several groups went up ID last weekend. Did I understand that the route is wanded above the Flats? Did you use pickets? Anyone Summit besides the RMI Guides?

A friend and I will be making our first Summit attempt of the year in May 13-14. We did DC Route last year Emmons the year before. Lots of rock fall on DC ;-). I see that RMI starts up that same weekend. Looking for suggestions on whether to take DC or Ingraham Direct. Only two of us, We would rather have 4. Interested? Is Gib Ledges out?