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Posts posted by Mr_D
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Sure looks and sounds a lot like a climb sean beanntan and I got 10 years ago. My photo records indicate 1/16/2007, which would be 10 years to the day
We hiked down the trail from where the west trail tunnel now resides. Climbed and topped out back at the car.
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Everything above the road at Cape Horn is still running wet in the middle. The wet december seems to have caused more flowing water, and thus taking longer to freeze.
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Not sure what type of pin pulled on Right Gull, but I have an assortment of Angle Pitons http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/angle-pitons-BD520720_cfg.html#q=pitons&start=6
I am happy to donate them to the cause. Unfortunately I lack the necessary removal and install tools and requisite knowledge. If you have the later, let me know. Happy to help.
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Things above 14 on cape horn are running wet in the middle of the climbs. Below 14 things look more promising, but only for those with an affinity for delicate placements and sparse to no pro.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=101645&title=img-19632&cat=500
http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=101644&title=img-19581&cat=500
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EMS recently responded to two accidents. Anyone know any details?
Not-Confirmed, but best info I have:
Friday, July 18th Beacon - Climber fell near the base of the SE Corner
Saturday, July 19th Ozone - Climber fell near East side.
Thanks,
Mr_D
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Currently misting near Cape Horn.
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Busted through the drifts this morning, and you can now drive to within 5minutes of Cold Springs. You can skin/ski on mostly continuous snow from cold springs.
Wind and cold temps kept the snow frozen and hard above 9,500' today, but the next warm and calm day should be perfect.
Enjoy,
Mr_D
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So from the sound of it, the road is plowed all the way in past the reservoir?
Thanks for the TR and info. We head there on Thursday of next week.
-Mr_D
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Have the wasps on P1 of Young Warriors been removed?
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100 degrees, yellow jackets, poison oak,.... sounds like a horrible place to climb.
This year, Beacon is more horrible than any other year before.
Fortunately Ozone is 75 degrees, breezy, free of insects and poison oak, and no drama.
Beacon's for the birds.
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There is also a yellow jacket ground hive on the 3rd "pitch" of the corner. It is near the end of the pitch as you go between the shrubs about 30' from Jill's anchors.
Enjoy.
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Good snowpack year = Mosquito Outbreak.
Just out from Adams Glacier...similar experience with the mosquitos. No time to unpack and take boots off at the trailhead on the way out, just get in the car and go.
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Here is the Assessor's info about Ozone. Looks like it is owned by CRGNSA.
http://skamaniawa.taxsifter.com/taxsifter/t-assessor.asp?pid=01052000010100
Here is the link to the map.
http://skamaniawa.taxsifter.com/aphotos/010/520/000/100/03-01.jpg
Sorry I cannot be of more assistance (time).
Mr_D
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Thanks for the info. Hope to get out and ski it soon.
-Mr_D
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Anyone have more current road conditions for Adams? The forest service says to Gotchen Creek on the 5/22, but it has been very warm lately.
Thanks,
Mr. D
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I was down there a couple days ago. You can drive down the Cape Horn RD? Its the first road on the right (heading east) immediately after the upper tier climbs. However, there is a sign posted that says parking anywhere on this road is high discouraged (whatever that means). Probably the best strategy is to park further back and just walk along the rails like the guidebook indicates, might be a bit of a walk though.
Some land was donated to create a trail through this area. The stipulation with the donation of that land is that the owners requested that people do not park down Cape Horn Road and instead park at the trailhead at the Salmon Falls/HWY 14 intersection and walk the cape horn road.
Mr_D
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(edited picture from Layton)
The oregonian (oregonlive.com) pdf diagram is not correct. The belay "cave" where the tools were found along with the anchor are indicated by the red dot.
On a separate note, the Hood River County Sheriff has been doing a phenominal job and the SAR Deputy has been absolutely great to work with. They are doing everything in their power and taken great care of the searchers involved.
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The locators are a *@#$% farce. The press will be all over this. Of course if you can not get in range they do not doing one @#$% piece of good. Let alone people on the hill to help. They naturally fail to mentioned this little fact.
SS,
Can you clarify what you mean by them being a "farce." I am assuming you are speaking of the mountain locator units??
They have been used in the past on the mountain and signals have been picked up from the summit at Timberline Lodge.
Here's one story that shows they didn't work when needed from 1997:
http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-64622192.html
I have no experience with MLUs; I've never rented one, and I can't think of one person I know who does rent them. However, everyone I know has a cell phone.
By no means am I saying it would be bad to have good, or at least moderate, cell coverage on Mt. Hood. However, the MLU's do have some benefits that have proven useful. For instance, they can be tracked down even when they are in a snow cave.
Unfortunately, they are not rented with a frequent enough nature to call them "standard."
I just want to make sure we don't propagate the notion that they never work...because they do. Like all technology, however, they are not foolproof.
Maybe this thread should continue elsewhere??
-Mr_D
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The locators are a *@#$% farce. The press will be all over this. Of course if you can not get in range they do not doing one @#$% piece of good. Let alone people on the hill to help. They naturally fail to mentioned this little fact.
SS,
Can you clarify what you mean by them being a "farce." I am assuming you are speaking of the mountain locator units??
They have been used in the past on the mountain and signals have been picked up from the summit at Timberline Lodge.
What experiences do you have to indicate otherwise?
Mr_D
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Post deleted by Mr_D
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PM to claim. I found it on the trail just below the parking lot.
If you are missing one, let me know and tell what color it is.
-Mr_D
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Up there today. The ice is in.
Enjoy.
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"smells" like booty to me.
Mt Adams route beta
in Southern WA Cascades
Posted
Please share what you found for road conditions skin-able conditions on the road to Cold Springs. I hope it is a great day for you.
-Mr_D