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Everything posted by underworld

  1. Mescalito photo TR, June 2008

    nice send!! was watching it via elcappics!! congrats! how many is that for you now?
  2. Trip: Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip Date: 5/19/2008 Trip Report: After a few bails on the nose last year, i wanted to try more of a 'walling' route and see what happens. something with a little less of a daily rush and less free climbing. Seemed like Tangerine Trip would fit the bill. with 17 pitches, moderate aid and only a couple sections of easy mandatory free climbing, our plan was to fix 1 pitch, then blast - going 4 pitches a day. my partner flew into SLC friday night at about 10:30 pm and we started the drive from there. Straight thru w/ a 2 hour nap near reno where we bought canned ravioli and water. continuing on, we roll into the valley to find a full-on traffic jam and melting black top, as it was about 95 degrees. we couldn't wait to get on the wall and out of the frickin traffic and tourons on this busy saturday afternoon. BLAH! we spend the rest of the afternoon gazing up at the wall and packing the haulbags. The Route(very faint red line) Sunday, after waiting line so we could spend that night in camp4, we took 2 trips shuttling loads to the base. it was about an hour and a half to get to the base with the heavy loads and only about 20 minutes to get back down. But finally after the second load, we are climbing. Pitch 1 belaying the fist pitch is suxor! The wall gives a constant rain shower and the mosquitos are feasting. That, and i have to keep an eye out for the rattlesnake that was chilling at the base when we got there. yadda yadda yadda, we get pitch 1 fixed, haul and then go to the buffet. Monday we blast off. This would be the big day. hike + jug + 4 pitches...and would put us at the top of pitch 5...committment! this would also turn out to be the only night we need headlamps to set up the ledge. All of P4 straight up to roof, then back down (photo credit: tom 'elcappics' evans ) Cleaning pitch 4 follower down aids to clean this pitch (photo credit: tom evans) Parner leading P5 ok, i'm tired of typing.... long story short - the route was steep, it got cold, we keep the 4P/day pace, topped out on thursday evening, it was snowing friday morning. here are some pics: Making the bed Partner cleaning P8 seemed like every pitch was a traverse all of P8 very, for me, involved pitch. started with hook traverse off ledge, to bolt/rivet ladder, to 5.7 tension, to thin A2 corner, to expando, to more hook traverse, to anchor ... a little of everything (photo credit: tom 'ansel' evans ) lots of hooking all really bomber and fun biner-to-bolt ratio.... off the charts! these snozzberries taste like snozzberries Somewhere on the rout Generic Aid photo rivet ladder P14 cuz it matters w00t! We got back down to the base friday mid-day to a rainy valley. both tioga and sonora pass had been closed due to snow, so we had to take the long way home. good thing, since we passed this: was a great trip, and thanks to a good partner - was an uneventful and prowd send! Thanks also to Tom Evans for keeping tabs on everybody on the wall and taking some killer pics from a different vantage. Gear Notes: dbl offset aliens mastercams to red tcu's to red aliens to grey offset nuts nuts trple to #3 dbl #4 one #5 double hooks double camhooks dozen rivet hangers 2 PBR's not enough warm clothes LaSportiva Ventors - greatest wallshoe ever! fruit rollups sardines ravioli few beaks few blades few sawed-offs p00p t00b rubber chicken dbl ipod nano's water Approach Notes: suxor!
  3. [TR] Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip 5/19/2008

    between that, the celebratory Marlboro red (i don't smoke) and the PBR... YES thanks. yah, that could have added a little spice/notstalgia/fun and all. but, i guess this way it prevents gapers (us) from shotty replacement if one blows.
  4. Iraq

  5. Eloping to California

    slippery sloping to california
  6. they are all fun and games....

    ...till someone loses an eye!!!!!!!!!
  7. WTF? Spectra/Dyneema cord as prusik??

    i don't think you can put a blanket of whether they are ok for prusiks. what's the prusik used for? need to go on a fixed line? is it part of an anchor? etc etc... there are a ton of uses for prusiks. i would be fine using the skinny stuff for some applications and would lean away from it in others. i wouldn't go 'apeshit' up at the local shop quite yet...maybe talk to em about it tho. each might learn something
  8. "it is what it is"

    i think i can i think i can
  9. This should attract the jet-set sport climber!

    those have to be DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD's
  10. saw that movie/presentation while i was there last month... some uninterested kid fell asleep in the front row. Ron woke him up and gave him a free book for sleeping thru the show. it was pretty classic! the kid was totally dazed and had no idea why he was getting the book.
  11. Denver Beta?

    I'm going to be visiting Denver in a couple of weeks. a) what are the mtn conditions in the rockies this time of year... ie... are the climbs on the diamond 'in'??? b) if i were to take my 4 year old nephew cragging for the first time... any suggestions on an area that is good for this? thoughts? ideas? spray?
  12. Just so ya know

    have they had 2 days off?
  13. Who are the true moderates...

    C's are better.... but maybe i'm just moderate
  14. The Definitive CC.com Psychological Breakdown

    things go well, you might see my OM face.
  15. Thanks Dennis! -Impeach the Bastard!

    dems are all talk... link
  16. Thanks Dennis! -Impeach the Bastard!

    What you "think" or feel does not matter. This is about the constitution. it's all about "feelings" for a liberal rather than logic And for republicans its all about who has the biggest house. exactly
  17. First Trad Fall

    1st fall on gear was aiding in the rain at squamish. philistine grove, i think. anyway, a #4 bd nut caught and the wire of the nut was caught in the gate of a doval (the old dovals have a step from the gate stop thing as opposed to newer ones that have a ramp...whatever...it was nearly crossloaded) 1st free-climb lead fall on gear was the fault in leavenworth. i had only placed a hex in some flake down low - only piece of gear). well, coming out of the chimney, i broke off a hold and took a ride. stopped about a foot off the ground. finished off the climb and went on to go up catapult, where another hold broke off on me (with no fall). we bailed and went drinking.
  18. told you so: unicorns are real

  19. Thanks Dennis! -Impeach the Bastard!

    The man is a psychopath, he is absolutely crazy. He is nutz and should be taken off the air. People like him should not be able to have a voice that loud or be able to influence others. He says being a liberal is a disease. What a joke. lefties against free speech
  20. DMM Peanuts!

    I'm not sure if these are a new nut on the market or not, but i got some recently and had the first opportunity to use them on sunday. some luscious upper town wallin allowed for many offset nut placements. these things are the bomb. cheaper than hb offsets and easier to get. $10.50 each or a set (1-5) for $45. just wanted to get the word out on another offset micro nut option. specs
  21. "GUILTY!"... now how hard was that?

    F**king loons for jurors! hung jury
  22. Beach Bonfire Ban

  23. boom

    Kid + skateboard + basketball... = LMAO!
  24. McCain speech

    he is??? what's that matter?
  25. McCain speech