Climb: Index-City Park and Shriley (to include big whipper)
Date of Climb: 9/11/2005
Trip Report:
So I finally convinced a friend of mine that aid climbing is action packed, fast-paced fun. Having only done it a few times myself, we head to the beloved city park. We split it into 2 pitches using the intermediate anchor off to the left, set up a haul and swing it to let him have his first lead. It all goes smooth and even convince him to have a go at a cam hook.
Next we scope out the base of Shirley and the arch looks too good to pass up. I lead it and find the lower portion to be a little tough as it was loose flakes and some more marginal gear (compared to C.P. at least). Shirley is certainly a lot more interesting than C.P. demanding more than just a rack of #4 stoppers. A few moves from the anchor a #0 DMM nut pulled, I had already tested it and was in the upper steps of the aiders w/ the rope clipped into the gear. Pulling all the slack and w/ stretch, it ended up being ~25 footer. Catching the fall was a bomber #6 BD micro nut. (the kind w/ the wire swaged into the nut itself). This is to be my first fall of that magnitude. So, after changing into clean shorts, i yarded my way up to the greatest nut in the world (not to be taken out of context) and finished up the pitch w/ a couple of glorious cams. Rapped off and got our place in line on HWY 2 to be stuck helplessly while the new episode of the simpsons plays on a tv somewhere out there. (was it good?? ...anyone?)
Gear Notes:
City Park: lottsa small nuts, a gray alien and a #2 camalot
Shirley: 1 set BD micro nuts, full set of nuts, pinky, cams to 3" and one hook move, that can most likely be avoided.
Approach Notes:
Rednecks trying to drive on the RR tracks w/ their redneck friends in the back of the truck.