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nordicpunk

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Everything posted by nordicpunk

  1. Anyone been up lately that can comment on snow level/ conditions? looking for a route to get some good skiing in and maybe summit if time/ conditions allow.
  2. Just in today. We have red (1"), grey (7/8"), and blue (3/8")- other sizes coming soon.
  3. Need to pare down the gear inventory. Loc in Portland. You pay shipping if needed. (I have shipped skis before and is usually ~$50 +/- 10) For sale are: Atomic Tacora 181cm with BD 01 mid-stiff bindings and BD ascension skins. All in very good condition! $350 Ski bases are in great shape and I just gave the edges a tune and base waxed. SOLD Petzl M10 Crampons. Comes with 2 more front points (I have them set up as mono, but they can be changed back to dual), wrenches, and spacers. Great crampon- lots of life left. $75 La Sportiva Muira lace size 39. used once. basically new for $90 Scarpa T2 tele boots 25.5 (dark blue ca. 2000ish I think). Lightly used, good condition $50 Lowa AT Boots. Soles are still in great shape. size 26.5, $30
  4. I climbed the route w/ Dasan the other day. I would say that the left gully would be the nicer descent with slightly more sun to soften it and much less of a step at the top. I think they would both be great though. Plenty of skiing between the summit and the top ice step too and there may be a way to down-climb easier ground to the east of the ice but I honestly didn't look at it that hard. The trick will be the bergschrund that is sometimes open at the bottom of gullies and, like Dasan mentioned, we didn't see that far down. I think one could possible exit onto Cooper Spur from the left gully before the bottom drop (again, just guessing).
  5. Fri-Sun. Maybe this is better off in yard sale? I don't know... but, the employees are selling loads of gear at great prices so come down to 1510 NE 37th to check it out. I am personally getting rid of Atomic tele skis w/01 bindings and skis, 2 pairs of T2's, once used muiras, an unopened 4-person tent, DMM cams, some QD's, other climbing, biking and ski gear. Also saw some other (brand new!) 01 bindings, some Dynafit skis and bindings, other almost new AT setups and at least one splitboard. Lot's more, just putting down what I remember to give you an idea of the sale.
  6. Lycopodophyta and Lion's Jaw are good moderates for passive pro. Also, agree that the beard is a great place to start.
  7. 1-1.5 g per kilo is probably about right. Some people will see gains from pounding the protein but it is not the most efficient (or healthiest) way to go. Let's look at your body's needs post workout: The number one concern will be energy stores. So, if you take in only protein, it would have to be enough to first convert to glucose and restore energy balance (and protein is not a good way to do this), then if there is anything left over it can be used for muscle repair/strengthening. This is the major misunderstanding of most athletes. As long as you take in carbohydrates (the best source for replacing glucose stores), you do not need excessive amounts of protein. 1.5-2g per kilo would be on the REALLY high end- like body builder style. Some of the advice here is good- several small meals a day, complex carbs, whole fruits/veggies... but your real concern about protein and improved performance is rooted in post workout feed. Train smart and take in a few carbs + protein after hard exercise. Hope this helps.
  8. Join us at the Mountain Shop for an evening with Black Diamond athlete Roger Strong. (see link) http://www.mountainshop.net/blog/?p=1761 Wed, April 18 6:30 @ Mountain Shop Portland 1510 NE 37th
  9. Most ski gear 20-30% off. Flush with summer climbing inventory with plenty of Petzl Elios hemets on closeout pricing, and just received some awesome stuff from local guys Cilo Gear and NW Alpine!
  10. NW Alpine shipment showed up at the Mountain Shop today. Gear looks great and am super impressed with the soft-shell hoody!
  11. Also had a Jetboil that I returned a few times due to several breakages, melting, etc... The problem with the old Jetboil even if you think it is higher quality, they don't work well at altitude and pretty much worthless below 10 degrees. Eventually tossed it and got MSR Reactor that is better than any Jetboil in terms of quality and performance. However, The weight makes it better for 2-3 person party. Think about why you want a Jetboil. For 1 person you could get a lighter stove like a Soto that has a regulator for gas pressure like the new Jetboils and get a Ti pot size of Sumo.
  12. Tried to fit brand new Nepals into Fritchi binding today and it does not work. It was close though... problem is height of sole to heel bail. Maybe if the soles are worn down just a bit it works?
  13. Hey pcg, Have been drytooling at the bluff recently. Maybe we could get another party going to do some intro to mixed climbing. My advice to you is: 1. Don't buy an adze. People don't really use those for ice either. it is fine on your ice axe but unnecessary on ice tools. 2. The Aztarex is great for a second tool (that's what I use too) but not great for ice or mixed. The problem is they are actually too light. It can take a lot of effort to get the head to penetrate ice. Too straight for good hooking regardless of the pick. There are a few reasonable options for tools these days. Save your pennies and get 2 good tools if you are interested in climbing harder ice or mixed routes. 3. Believe Petzl Elios has a shield option. There is a shield for the Camp helmet at Mtn. Shop
  14. Also available at Mtn. Shop if they sell out at Climb Max or you don't make it over there before they close down (not sure what the last day is).
  15. Yes, you will need an anchor for the chains if you start leading, but don't use a daisy chain. Metolius makes an adjustable full-strength anchor system if you like that kind of set up. url= http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us
  16. You wouldn't find a harness that old. The store would be worried about hanging on to something like that for too long and would just close it out after a couple years. Also, you would know where it's from- the manufacturer. I have never known a shop to buy climbing gear from anywhere else. No customers, employees, or unused returns, no matter how new and perfect it looks. Standard climbing store practice.
  17. There was one at Alpental last weekend. Has been one in Bend later season but is not happening this year I guess. Possibility of a race at hood late season too. I'm down to do some training if anyone is in PDX area.
  18. You may have a low instep. try some foam across the back of the tongue to take out some volume and hold your heel back. I would also put some Superfeet inserts in there to keep your foot posted. May keep it from sliding as much.
  19. Anyone heard of a plate that you can strap onto boots that will make the sole fit into an SNS or NNN backcountry binding?
  20. Oregon people- your best bet for VO2/training zones performance test or Body fat testing is COCC in Bend. www.cocc.edu/exphyslab.I used to work there and they are legit.
  21. Well said Matt. I didn't know anyone in town when I moved to Bozeman a few years ago. Luckily Matt introduced me to his friends, including Mike and Mark. I feel so blessed to have known them. If you ever suggested heading into the mountains, they were practically packing their gear before you hung up the phone. We had some great times and I will truly miss them. -Erik
  22. Two great guys. They will be missed!
  23. I voted for "screamer every time" for 5+ yrs. experience. I know from experience that they probably aren't always neccisary BUT- screamers are not that expensive and so I figure "why not?" probably 90+% of my placements get screamers. Also- very key is weekend climberz mention of the doubles. I did an impact study with Beal ropes here at MontanaState U. (grad student in movement science) and Double ropes have ~half the impact force of a 10.2 single line!
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