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vwfanatic96

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Posts posted by vwfanatic96

    Dangers of soloing

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    depends on the person, the climb, the situation, but even some of the best die soloing even though they had done it forever. Dwight Bishop died unroped on a 5.8 and he had been known to solo up to 5.11 I think.

     

    yeah, there's weather, rock fall, cramps, etc. uncontraollable factors that matter in both solo and team climbing but with a rope you most likely will be ok. solo...maybe but doubtful.

    Bad Pants Party...?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Sorry i had the route name mistaken, it is Bad Pants Party.

    is is in Squamish in the South Apron Gully

    the move in question is the last bolt before the tree ledge with the chain wrapped around the tree.

    i have been told that it might be height dependant as well as sandbagged? but still not positive i took the correct path.

    Bad Pants Party...?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Anyone done it? .10b South Gully (by Apron)

    starts down and right a little ways of Rock On.

     

    at the last bolt (see poorly drawn topo attached) does it go straight up over slab bulge w/ almost no holds or does it cut straight out right?

    i did this route on Sat. just going by memory of what i had glanced at in the new (McLane) guide. got to that last bolt and it seemed way hard and i wasn't sure if i should of gone straight up through those hard bulge moves or cut over off to the right. if anyone knows i'd appreciate the beta and/or a topo would be awsome. good route either way (a little dirty though)

    thanks

     

    585737-Wheretheriverbends.JPG.10f65e38ecfeefa73d7c2eddae2e2b10.JPG

    8.5mm dry, dynamic half-rope good for top-roping?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I wouldn't use it for top-roping. That is pretty rough on a rope. 10.5 or 11mm recommended.

    If you are on easy terrain I would use it, with the option of doubling it over for difficult sections where a fall is likely.

    Make sure you didn't step on it with crampons, etc, during the snow use. That should dedicate it to "glacier rope only" status.

     

    Yeah, I would have to agree

    Damnation Crack

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by vwfanatic96

    I was in Leavenworth last Fri. and did Damnation. Much harder then I expected but still an awsome climb.

    In the widest part of the chimney once you get up a little ways I believe you can get a purple TCU or green Alien ( can't remember exactly) on the wall behind you, then a few moves after that a sketchy grey TCU on the wall facing you then 2 more moves and a solid .75 Camalot.

    Hold Washing

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by vwfanatic96

    Hey

    i'm just trying to get some ideas on the best and most efficient way to wash large quantities of climbing holds (plastic), other then hand scrubbing with a brush. if anyone has any ideas please let me know.thanks

    Adding a bolt at Midnight Rock

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by vwfanatic96

    I haven't done it, but from the description you post it sounds quite likely Peter did it exactly as you find it today as none of the exposure you describe (16-18ft. between points of protection sound like anything he would have been intimidated by. He's the author of more than a few scary starts [, middles, and ends] and hopefully they won't all get bolted just because someone fell on one of them. I sympathize and empathize with taking a dive and getting hurt, but that doesn't in anyway mean it should be bolted.

     

    i'm gonna have to agree...it does sound like a bold start, but with a good belayer and a solid leader, not fatal.

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