denalidevo

Ridiculous - no professional guide service has the time to troll (or desire) this B.S.

This is the first bit of sanity (vs. mass speculation) in this thread for some time now... Speaking as one who survived a ground fall due to gear pulling, I'm glad the two are all right, and hopefully much wiser as to the realities of failure in the vertical realm. Climb on!

Trip: Special Spot - The Javelin and more... Date: 5/8/2010 Trip Report: Went back to Tumwater Canyon Sat. to crag at The Special Spot. Climbed Cracked and Peeled/Special Olympics, Opening Ceremonies and The Javelin. Full TR here. A few pics:

The angle in my photo is deceiving - that obvious crack is (I believe) level with the City Park/Godzilla belay ledge. Here's another pic for comparison:

Wow - if what you describe it true, then, well... wow. This is what it looked like in Feb when I climbed it. Could it be that the large block immediately left of the anchor fell off?

Trip: Icicle Buttress - Cocaine Connection/R&D Date: 5/2/2010 Trip Report: Stiff and sore from cragging at Clem's Holler on Sat, Tim and I got some easy mileage in on Icicle Buttress via Cocaine Connection-R&D Sunday. Climb went swimmingly though wind became a factor higher up. I broke the upper pitches into shorter lengths to ease our communication. Was Tim's first time on IB and he thoroughly enjoyed it. Tim smearing slab on p1, Cocaine Connection Pitch 3, R&D Tim putting the finishing touches on R&D Good times Gear Notes: Nuts: 1 set Camalots: 1 set .3 to 3", doubles .5 to 2" 6 alpine draws, 6 quickies, 2 doubles, 1 cordelette Approach Notes: Short & sweet

Trip: Tumwater Canyon - Clem's Holler Date: 5/1/2010 Trip Report: Spent a sunny Saturday cragging with Tim, Ian and Amanda. The list: Nettlesome, p1 & 2 (5.9) Honky's Lament, p1 (5.8) Gun Rack, p1 (5.9) Poultry in Motion, p1 (5.10c) Playin' Possum, p1 (5.8) Nettlesome, p1 (5.9) Perils of Pauline (5.11c) (TR) Sent everything clean except for Perils of Pauline - worked the crux several times on TR, but eventually resorted to pulling past it on the rope. Felt good onsiting Poultry in Motion though. Ian leading Nettlesome Tim pulling the crux on Gun Rack Tim leading Playin' Possum Gear Notes: All quickdraws except for small rack to 2" on Honky's Lament Approach Notes: No big deal

Trip: Red Rocks - A Week in Red Rocks: Days 3 & 6 Date: 4/20/2010 Trip Report: The second installment from my Red Rocks trip last week: http://climb.denalidevo.net/2010/04/red-rocks-days-3-6.html Routes climbed: The Black Corridor The CEL Bonaire Bon EZ Thermal Breakdown Dancin' with a God Lewd, Crude, Misconstrued Mescalito Cat in the Hat Ultraman Wall Scent of an Ultraman Ultraman

Weather's gone for a turn. Prob some cragging Thursday, maybe another long climb on Fri.

Nothing fancy, just a Canon Powershot A350 compact camera - I do a lot of panoramic stitching in Photoshop for the big pics...

Trip: Red Rocks - A week in Red Rock Canyon: Days 1 & 2 Date: 4/18/2010 Trip Report: Been getting some good sandstone climbing in lately. Full report with photos and video at http://climb.denalidevo.net/2010/04/red-rocks-days-1-2.html Teaser pics:

Sounds like the same guy

Biscuits and gravy, eggs and hash browns. Haven't taken a dump yet - must've been the breakfast...

Trip: Index Lower Town Wall - Princely Ambitions, Godzilla Date: 4/11/2010 Trip Report: Originally posted at: http://climb.denalidevo.net/2010/04/rock-climb-princely-ambitions-godzilla.html Spent Sunday at Index Town Wall with Tony and Kurt. Hit the parking lot around 9 AM and it was already half full: the Lower Wall was crawling with aid climbers. Must have been a group outing, class or the something of the like. They were even aiding some of the popular free climbs, which seemed odd. Oh well, Princely Ambitions (5.9) was open and we got right to it. It was cloudy and cool and there were still some damp spots on the route, but none that seemed to prohibit climbing. I led, Kurt belayed. After scrambling up the fourth class start, I quickly gained a stance at the lone bolt on the face and began a rightward hand traverse, placing my right foot on a flake that I sensed was damp. Attempting to divert my weight off the slimy foothold, I pulled, stood and POP! - my foot slipped and down I went. It was a small fall, not frightening at all, just disappointing. I got back on and mopped up the flake with some chalk: problem solved. The remainder of the route went without incident. I hadn't climbed Princely in almost a year - what a sweet hand traverse! Tony followed, clipping his trailing rope through the gear to protect Kurt. This was both their first time on the route - fun, fun, fun! We climbed the second 5.8 pitch as well, then ambled over to Godzilla - the only other climb open on the crowded wall today, go figure. The sun was now shining and it was quite warm. That, and the fact that it was my second lead, made Godzilla enjoyable and relaxing. Tony followed and then, as we prepared our rappel, a gentleman below asked if he could TR Godzilla using our rope. "Of course!" we replied. So he did a lap, I did one via the "Bambi" 5.10 variation and Tony another via the direct 5.9 finish. Beer-thirty was then declared and Pipeline Porter was enjoyed by the river. Good times. Tony puts his ambitions to the test on Princely Ambitions Fresh snow + sunshine = 1 awesome view Kurt climbing the hand traverse on Princely [video:youtube] Fun in the sun Oh yeah Photos: view all 37 pics from our Sunday at Index on Flickr Gear Notes: Nuts: #4 - #10 Single set C3's and a .3 C4 Double C4's .4 - #3

Sold

nearly, a party is interested

Medium. I (now) have a 30 in. waist. Should be fine w/ a 31-33 in. waistline.

Practically brand new - worn less than 10 times. I bought it 2 months ago and promptly lost 10 lbs., it no longer fits. Product description: http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?Mens/Climbing_Gear/X-350a#Harnesses Retails for around $160, will part with it for $100. PM only if serious. Includes the cool aluminum tin!

Nice - way to battle the elements!

Trip: Smith Rock - Roundup: 4 days at Smith Date: 3/26/2010 Trip Report: Enjoyed my first road trip of the Spring last weekend: went to Smith Rock with a bunch of friends from Vertical World Everett. Took me a while to write it up and edit the pics, so pardon the cross-post. Full post w/ pics and video at: http://climb.denalidevo.net/2010/04/road-trip-smith-rock.html Teaser pic: Routes climbed: Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Wedding Day 5.10b Nine Gallon Buckets 5.10c Cool Ranch Flavor 5.11b The Outsiders 5.9 Light on the Path 5.10a Snuffy Smith 5.9 Ginger Snap 5.8 Cry Baby 5.9 Tammy Baker's Face 5.10c Phone Call from Satan 5.9/ Solar 5.9 Honey Pot 5.9 Cinnamon Slab 5.6 Easy Reader 5.6 Bunny Face 5.7 Ancylostoma 5.9 Captain Xenolith 5.10b Helium Woman 5.9 Five Gallon Buckets 5.8 Gear Notes: Mostly sport, some trad

Trip: Index Town Wall - Godzilla/Taurus/Breakfast of Champions Date: 3/19/2010 Trip Report: I apologize in advance for another frivolous Index TR, but what a gorgeous day for climbing! Just had to get some rock time in before work. Met Gene in Monroe and pulled into Lower Town Wall parking lot @ 8:30am - first car! Headed to The Country hoping to get on GM/Heart of the Country, but the approach slab was guarded by a healthy covering of thick wet moss. By the time we walked back to LTW proper several more people had arrived and my backup plan, Princely Ambitions, was spoken for. We scoped out a few other potential routes: Sagittarius (wet), Japanese Gardens (same), but Godzilla was dry and we soon got down to the biznass. Gene's lead (first time!) and other than making the final mantel to the anchor much more difficult than necessary (feet Gene, use the feet!), he was solid. I followed, we rapped and walked back to Princely where the first party was just leaving but a new party was getting ready. Guess everyone called in sick this morning! Around the corner, a party appeared to be top-roping pitch two of Roger's Corner (?) - damn! Oh well, Taurus was open and I scampered up via the Aries fist/Sickle Crack/Taurus to a belay below the Aries roof, then Gene took us to the top via the Taurus hand crack. The party on Roger's was just rapping off Breakfast of Champions, so we scrambled over to the anchors above, rapped down to the tree and got in a solid lap each to top off our day. Parking lot was 3/4 full when we left at 1:45pm - an obvious sign that Spring has arrived. Despite the crowds, I'm glad it was Friday. Can't imagine the unholy craziness the weekend will bring... Didn't take many pic's - here's the best one: Gene liebacking the big "G"

Sounds like you've got a good handle on your training. A four day Emmons trip does have a heavier pack than say the standard Muir climb, so good to prepare for that. The one thing I've noticed with many of my clients who've trained for Rainier is they often find the descent was harder than the ascent. In my experience, stairmasters are good for the muscles utilized in ascending but not for descending. Train your muscles for the descent and you will really kick some butt!

Not for me - Safari 4.0.5 Mac OS X 10.6.2 Broken in Firefox 3.6 too... Fixed now. Thanks, jon and timmay! :tup:

same issue here Safari 4.0.5 Mac OS X 10.6.2

One thing you might consider: lighten your pack! Carrying 65# is hard work and hardly necessary. Invest in lighter gear, dial down to just the necessary clothing and food (in my experience, people bring 2x as much grub as they need) and water (no more than 3 litres). For example, my pack rarely tops 45#, even when I'm carrying a tent, stove, fuel and climbing gear on a 3-4 day climb. Carrying a heavier pack for training purposes isn't a bad idea (hypergravity training), but when the climbing begins you will appreciate the lost pounds.