chrisr
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Posts posted by chrisr
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What is the approach time like, do you stay to the left of the valley or right, and what is a typical "on route" time like for 2 people? I've been up to source lake once and we went in one way and cam out another. Thanks in advance.
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I'll take em! PM's
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watch out, this guy's got chlamydia. very dirty. it alway starts as an innocent weekend getaway.....
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check out "finishing hammer gully" if you're looking for a longer (200m) WI3. Great views, really fun climbing and a short approach. About 45 minutes north of Lake Louise.
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This is the first year I've climbed without leashes and I'll never go back. Placing pro is so much easier when you don't have to screw with leashes. It's not a "chestbeat" thing at all. I've climbed a total of probably 20 pitches of ice this year so far and I haven't even come close to dropping them. It's a personal preference that's all. My climbing partner made the switch from Rages to Ergos this year and loves it as well. Just try it, if you don't like it then don't do it.
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just the history of that canyon alone is enough of a draw for me to go there. Not to mention the hot college girls, good bars and the ability to climb multiple routes in one day. If you weren't into any of that, then... I guess it would suck.
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It's not a destination climb for sure. I doubt I'll ever go back. I'm just getting to the point of leading WI4 so those long gulley climbs are great for getting in miles.
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When we were walking down there was a pretty good sized avalanche that poured over the climb that's up and right of Lady Wilson's. The name escapes me but it's a big free-hanging dagger.
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no, it was so wet that we bagged it and went back to Banff to get toxic. We walked around quite a bit of it to see if it got better but it didn't.
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Climb: Icefields Parkway, Canmore-Hammer Gulley, Lady Wilson's, Canmore Junkyards
Date of Climb: 12/18/2005
Trip Report:
Went up to the Parkway and did Hammer Gulley 200m WI3. Only a 20 minute approach and awesome views make this an incredible route. Four pitches of ice with some 200 feet of soloing. One of the best days I've ever had. Cold-10F overnight but in the 20's during the day allowed us to climb without jackets. The route is entirely in the sun and the ice was plastic.
Next day we tried to do Lady Wilson's Cleavage, again wanting to cover some ground, but we found it to be too wet. We renamed it Lactating Lady Wilson. The first few steps of WI2 were alright but when it came to the first substantial pitch you couldn't stand. As soon as you put your foot into it, it would collapse and begin to spew.
We heard from the people at Mountain Magic that Polar Circus and the Weeping wall were the same.
Great trip with great weather!
The junkyards in Canmore was packed but offered quite a bit of ice. There must have been 10-12 seperate parties there on Saturday. We did a 3 to the right of the waterfall that doesn't seem to freeze on the upper portion that was fun. Although it had a sketchy 15 foot moss/shale exit. Great time, highly recommend Finishing Hammer Gulley to anyone who wants a fun, moderate route that covers some ground and gives beautiful views of Howse and Cephren.
Stopped by Haffner on the way out and found more ice than I saw last year this time. Some of the easier M5 routes are covered in ice.
Gear Notes:
normal stuff
Approach Notes:
Hammer- 20 min walk up steep hillside with plenty of brush.
Lady Wilson's- the creek is frozen solid all the way to the road which makes for the easiest approach I've ever done.
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The drive north to Banff is only a couple more hours and conditions there are awesome, check out the post by JoshK. I was there last week too and I have to say it was the best 4 days of ice climbing I've ever had. Gib wall is good too. Copper was in last week but the warmer temps may have changed that. Good luck.
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not a chance.
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check pm's
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I've got a pair of the BD dry tool gloves. I use those, the atlas and some cheaper REI one gloves. The BD gloves are so thick that they don't work in the BD fusion handles. That's my problem with those. Thanks for the review of the Arcteryx gloves.
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yeah, I've got the atlas gloves and I carry 3 pairs of gloves to trade out with but I haven't been too happy with that system. The hand warmers might be worth it though. Thanks for the replies.
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Anybody used them for climbing ice? Are they warm enough for single digits and more importantly, are they worth $85? Thanks.
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no, we meant to but it didn't happen.
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the photo in the gallery provides much better detail.
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Climb: Gib Wall 12/10/05-Gib Wall
Date of Climb: 12/10/2005
Trip Report:
A bit wet but lots of ice. The road is passable by moped right now too. We drove a Jetta with no problems at all.
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anybody been there lately to check conditions? if so, what was the road like back to Gib? thanks.
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a.k.a ffpm79
Last 2 nights it was 5 degrees in moses lake so I figured things had to be getting close. Vantage and the Quincy area may be close as well, although most of those face the sun in the afternoon. Glad to save people the trip. All I have to do is add an hour to my trip home in the morning in order to check things out.
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Patches of snow just after last log crossing from colchuck trailhead, approx 1-2 inches at colchuck lake as of yesterday. No ice in sight.
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I have a brand new (that means never used) pair of black diamond fusions and I would like to trade for a slightly used pair of quark ergos. anyone interested?
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how much for the third tool?
chair peak questions
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
I saw those, thanks. Didn't quite see the info I was looking for though. I'm just trying to figure out if an 8a.m. trailhead start time is too late.