backclipped

Billcoe, Look! I've put "Stranger" in the rear view mirror. This guy is now a "Noob". I'm on my way.

Have you ever climbed at Smith? I mean the park proper, not the gorge? I don't see how stepping onto Moonshine bare fisted could possibly cause mutilation. All I'm trying to say is that there is a time and place for anything, and that posturing and absurd folly has been particularly rampant in the park this spring.

I agree, but sometimes I'm just in the mood to spray. For me it doesn't have much to do with trumping someone's core. It's more of an anonymous vent. I'm way to much of a pussy to walk up to someone and say, "Hey, Bub, take off the roll of tape, you look like a douche." So I do it here as Backclipped--the anoymous bitching welp.

I love climbing with the human stick clip. I get the benefit of the diaper and I still get to thump my chest and snear at all the store bought and garage made.

Kevbone, armchair overlord of the virtual pacific northwest climbing realm, I come to you seeking wisdom and guidance. Your 10,937 posts, spanning nigh-six years must have enlightened you with the knowledge to answer my petty and painfully mortal question: Why is it that this post belongs here and you banished my ditty to the spray annals. I mean, Lord Kevboner, I actually mention climbing. Please give me the clarity I seek. I'm truly butt-hurt.

Right-o, shapp! I'm quite fond of the stick clip I pulled out of letsrolls bottom . And Kevbone, if I were to indulge in everthing that thought felt good I'b be either A) diseased and single B)incarcarated C)dead or D) A foolish looking poser face climbing in Yosemite boxing gloves, aiy.

What's with the rash of Kickboxer, Lionheart, and Blood sport-style tape gloves I see engulfing the hands, wrists, and lower forearms of welded tuft "tradsters". I'm not calling these climbers pussies or anything quite that demeaning, but take the fucking scratch will ya. And besides, where exactly to you plan on jamming on Lions Jaw.

Christ, that sucks. On goes the K2 curse. I wonder what they're going to name his tribute ski?

I just use wood glue. If your screws are tightened down with 4 newton meters of torque, there is no reason to use anything stronger...I "do" want to remove my bindings for future grinding. Wood glue is manly used for lubrication and to keep water out. Shop trick for "close to old hole remounts": do not just fill old holes with epoxy. Squirt some expoxy (marine grade), take a golf tee, hammer it home (be kinda gentle, you can dimple your base, cut off the top, sure-form the debre flush, drill you new holes. Why only add epoxy when you can add some wood fiber...aka, meat.

First of all it is absolute bullshit that a shop mounted something other than your own bindings on your skis. This is a matter of accountability, and I would not have left that shop without my "own" bindings mounted on my "own" skis...WTF. As for re-using the same holes: I'm riding a pair of Salomon X-Wing Labs mounted with the Marker Dukes. Now, this is more of an Alpine set-up than a light weight touring arrangement; which means it has a bit more "integrity". Because my ski has more burl than, say, a BD or a G3, I always remove my binding prior to stone grinding. I have never had a pull-out...ever. If you have a less substantial ski, or an unwavering concern, insist on having your holes heli-coiled. I know people who heli-coil there mounting points right off the bat. If done right (ummmm, I'd skip on Berge's) the heli-coil mount will be uber bomber.

Nice. Alright, I spent the last 10 hours breathing p-tex and wearing my happy face, so I apologize for the stupid question: How do you simul Cinnamon in 100 ft? I mean...really, one hundred ft between the leader and the second?

I read alot. I mean, I read ALOT. And, man, that was the sickest thing I've read on a climbing website for quite some time. Good read...good fucking read. Perhaps you'll find your face on one of those inspirational posters you see in doctor and guidance councelor offices. You know, the ones that showcase a word and attempt to define it with a photo of someone doing some inspirational shit. Your word will be Perserverance. Cheers and congrats.

He was likely task loaded and frazzled. Hopefully your brisk kick it the pants put him on the accelerated track for comprehending just how important it is not to step on someones life support system--his own or someone else's. There are some horrifying people out there...

Right, what he said. Letsroll, you need to smoke more grass or drink more whiskey...all I remember is the fuckshow that commenced after we had rope on rope...and you capping it perfectly with, "It's alright, you were just acting like asses." Have a good holiday, my man.

Was he a climber?

You're 100 percent right. Looking out for one another is important. I don't have an answer to your question. Someone in my party should have said something, but we just let it unfold. Hindsight 20/20.

I guarantee it's not SUNY Plattsburgh, unless you're super into the exercise in self deprecation that is ice climbing. I think once Bend gets a four year school, this snotty little town will be a contender: in town bouldering/climbing, a peppering of "local" crags, 30 min from Smith, the Central Cascades, 10 hours to Yosemite, Mammoth/Bishop, eight hours from The City, six hours to the northern cascades.....Central Oregon is indeed central.

Damn straight! And I think tourists dress differently...I mean, the clothing is probably similar, they just don't jingle when they walk. Cheers...

I haven't been climbing long enough to know if people in the past actually knew what they were doing. Gym rats aren't dumb, they're just....not experienced. There is no way we could have brawled with those kids. They would have changed all of those route names in the Combination Block area to things like "Three assholes in jail", "Assault", "And the Rocks Run Red", "Dismembered Gym Rats", Triple Trouble, Double Thump, Should have Hesitated, Smashing Toy Blocks....etc. Watching them try to send Ring of Fire would look strangely like me getting launched off of Bad Moon Rising. Humble pie is disgusting...sometimes I hate the higher ground.

Makes a guy wanna run from the hills and settle in the desert...beautiful pictures. Spitting on tourists from atop towers--love it. But tell me, how is a traveling climber not a tourist?

Since you can clip the first bolt of Barbecue the Pope simply by rocking onto the tippy toes of your size 13 clod hoppers, Letsroll, a cheater stick is of no use to you. In fact carrying a cheater stick would not help your sport climbing at all--I don't think that you'd make it out of the parking lot, as I'm sure Josh would deliver you a Conan-style thrashing with it.

How is one to curb his anger as he watches an adjacent party of young bucks traverse across his top rope to get to the anchors of a climb too difficult for one of them to lead? Perhaps I was lucky to have ascertained my elementary climbing concepts from adept climbers...or had parental figures to instill manners. A commandment from the climbing tablets: Nylon on Nylon is not a savory thing. Something Pops told me way back when, "Wait your fucking turn!" So what do you do in this situation? Do you A) Lower your buddy and commence with verbal abuse, pack kicking and other protocols of pre-brawl foreplay. B) Lower your buddy. Ask the adjacent belayer to lower his. Gather the two parties into a nice discussion circle in the dirt, and allow the young and uninformed to fire questions at the old hands in the know. C) Walk them through how to get out of the unfortunate situation that they've put everyone involved in. D) Climb away like nothing is going on. We opted for choice C and then quickly retreated over Asterisk with the knowledge that young bucks need to be seen (they'll stay in the ghetto) and craggers are lazy (they'll stay in the ghetto too).

I here ya. I enjoy natural lines as well. I'm just tired, you know? Just tired of disciplines getting dismissed. Sport climbing is frickin' hard...Trad climbing is frickin' hard...or they can both be easy. It all depends on who you are. Moving over rock is one of my favorite pass times. I enjoy the over bolted Kevin Pogue routes at the City, I like throwing myself at the old school 5.10d routes at Smith...but my favorite route of all time is a 5.7 granite gear climb on MDI,ME called Old Town. ... since I don't establish routes, to me climbing is climbing. I'd like to see an MRI (obviously impossible) of your brain (or mine for that matter) as you lead off of Bohn Street onto Monkey Space. I think you'd see indisputable evidence that you are indeed thinking. cheers

...yeah but, the actual mindset of leaving an idle rope sucks. Of course communication doesn't suck, but that would be another forum heading wouldn't it. Letsroll, if you leave my rope idle this weekend I'm gonna kick you in the nuts...square, so that they both bruise equally. Then I'm gonna pull the rope and slap you with it...

Pink, what do you mean sport climbing gives your brain a rest. What about difficult opening moves with a high first bolt? You must be wicked strong. Like so strong that the athletic nature of face climbing is just full on auto-pilot for you. Any training tips, hardman/woman? Cause I wanna be hard too.