Jump to content

backclipped

Members
  • Posts

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by backclipped

  1. backclipped

    6-6-6

    Sam Furley, I don't see how voting for Obama can discredit opinion futures. But hey, a man is entitled to his views regardless of how thick his cataracts has become. What I would like to know about you is, "How many time did you vote for W?" In anticipation of your answer I would like to cordially invite you to eat a dick. Yes, I voted for Obama, and I'll likely vote for him again. I would like a democratic candidate to run against him....a true left one...not any of this centrist bullshit... Think a perfect blend of John Stewart, Bill Maher, and Bernie Sanders...but this isn't likely to happen. So I'll take Obama over some 9-9-9 delivery boy, a Tea Party darling, another Texan, a flip flopping business executive, or Santorum (whatever the fuck you call that wing nut). Of course the only sane choice in that entire field is Huntsman, but M'erica doesn't seem to run on sanity...oddly enough it seems to run on Sam Furley.
  2. backclipped

    6-6-6

    Well Sam, if you harken back to that sensational campaign you might remember he pitched "Yes WE can". He didn't claim to be a political messiah....but the Republican crusaders are sure as fuck hellbent on nailing him to the cross.
  3. Round River is a fun climb, but it's a long way to hike to place a couple of stoppers (it's actually three pitches). Thin Air is 5.8...protects really well. There are a few options up on Staender Ridge. Instant Replay (5.6) on Adit Rock is pretty good. I think Parking Lot Crack (5.7?)is a good one too. One could hit these routes up on there way to Koala There are a couple of slabs at the base of Spiderman that could be good options. My first trad lead ever was Lion's Jaw (5.8)
  4. Really? The 90s kicked out some great music. I mean, every decade has its greatest misses, but the 90s gave us bands like Quicksand, Samiam, AFI, Blind Melon, Radiohead....Pearljam, Alice in Chains.....It was a great decade for music. You're not def by chance? I'm so kidding...about you being def that it.
  5. In the early 90s I walked all the way from the parking lot to the dihedrals with a full size ghetto blaster on my shoulder playing public enemy, then my D cells ran out before the sendage. true story. In the late 90s,while studying half cab heel flips and bong rips at SUNY Plattsburgh,I listened to Chuck D lecture about the history and future of hip-hop. A true and feckin' wicked story.
  6. Your ranting needs to be shored up and made parallel. In one breath you call Smith a shithole not worthy of your time, and with the next you champion it's free spirited beauty. What's your angle, buckshot? You certainly don't lack in the entitlement category (although you seem to be quite depraved in the quality category). Just because one can do something doesn't mean that he/she should. .....nothing like kicking a dead, plump and gaseous horse.
  7. Old fart? Well, I'm no spring chicken, but I haven't quite crested the hill yet...or maybe I have--what the hell is up with skinny jeans. What the hell is up with skinny jeans with the baggy jean ass/crotch sag? Pink point sounds good to me--it's a washed-out color that really lacks decisive character.
  8. I'm too lazy to look it up myself. Do any of you lawyer types know where the law stands on removing toys from public land? It's not like a cat burglar shadow danced his way into your house and snatched your much throttled Prince Adams action figure out of your secret toy box. Leaving draws up is selfish and lazy. Period. And it looks like shit, and can further scar the offending wall. Are you really "sending a proj" when you don't even hang the draws on your attempt?
  9. Looks like I misread...and stuck my big fungal toed foot in my mouth. I will never, ever be able to climb that grade. I was under the impression that Oval Orifice is 10b, not 13-.........yup, there it is right there on MP.com. Sorry I can't be your new hero.
  10. I just picked up the Petzl Bug. I haven't had the opportunity to put it to the test yet, but at first glance I reckon I'm going to be quite satisfied. Has anyone actually been up any routes with this thing on his/her back?
  11. I'm a Babybel and kipper snack man.
  12. I get a kick out of the circles climbers talk themselves around. Bro-Brah-Blah-Blah. Bottom line: totally unacceptable that your gear got swiped. In the future you might want to consider cleaning your clips off of your moderate project. After all, the crag ain't your bedroom, and dickheaded people will do dickheaded things. Consider this a hard lesson learned.
  13. When the route you're fixing to climb has more than 10 clips....duh.
  14. Who equated the fall of western civilization with bolted routes? Talk about hyperbole...My friend's statement has more to do with character and discretion. But if you don't get it, you don't get it. Moving on.
  15. A friend of mine weighed in on this topic of conversation with some blunt insight. He said, "Why can't we just have a handful of areas left alone...it's just a metaphor for people in general I guess." That's something to "Amen".
  16. It's not like Super Slab is some ultra-bold chop route like they have in Britain, where a line of somewhat accessible bolts would severely change the psychological factor. Not that this point has much to do with the topic of conversation, but it isn't for you, Julian, to decide what is considered ultra-bold for other climbers. I've seen many people busting an Elvis shimmy on routes I could climb in sneakers, while chewing gum, and waxing bullshit (and conversely I've been desperate on routes that friend of mine hike). You put a bolt anywhere near a crack and a climber a little gripped is likely to clip it. Take the bolt at the top of Solar for example...yeah, I've clipped it. The addition of bolts on any route certainly changes the psychological factor. To claim otherwise is asinine....
  17. I actually caught a buddy of mine on Chopper. He claims the fall had little to do with it, but he more or less quit climbing shortly after. In fact, I still climb on what used to be his rack. I've never led Chopper. I've racked up for it, but quickly downclimbed when I felt that ungodly reverberation move through my foot after I gonged on it with my palm---no thanks. If I was 1,000 feet up a wall and Chopper was the path of least resistance I'd get it done; but I'm not going to get it done for a 40 ft route. I am a pussy like that.
  18. Retreat from this shitty New England existence and reclaim my central Oregon life. There are some things at Smith that need dispatching: Snibble Free Lunch Titanium Jag Karwendal Dreams
  19. I almost never wear one when I'm clipping bolts, but I consider the helmet an essential piece of the gear plugging uniform-- I kinda feel naked with out it. Of course I realize this makes no sense. Irrational is the climber who ascends Moonshine, abseils, takes off the helmet, and gets on Wedding Day. So it goes.
  20. First Kiss was mentioned by Billcoe. The last pitch is the money pitch. Anyone been on the 5.9 dihedral on Snibble?
  21. All great recommendations for main area climbing--First Kiss wasn't mentioned and is worth the extra five minute romp passed the start of West Face variation. Spiderman is a classic. A quick word about Monkey Face: if you think you're a 5.11 climber because you've been up Hersey a few dozen times, expect to aid your way out of the west cave if you pass on the bolt ladder and free Monkey Space......I've been that guy. The Marsupial have some worthwhile jaunts: Thin Air. Birds in a Rut. Santiam Highway Ledges. Cave Route. Marsupial Traverse.
  22. I considered the Beal Joker (I dig the single, double, twin rating), but went with the Mammut Infinity 9.5 Duodess 70m. I'm not really a fan of the buy cheap and buy often philosophy. I'm more into the "throw down on Mammut and throw down when you can" philosophy. I just started this thread to see what others are climbing on. For the first time in a long time I have no access to cheap gear avenues (I've left outdoor retail) and was looking at paying an on-sale rendition of retail. This made me hiccup on this particular gear selection (and likely every gear selection down the road). Jens, you are right about needing multiple ropes. My fiance is forcing me to toss one of my old cords out (I told her that I'd make a rug out of it this winter....). I still don't have a set of doubles......she's going to be pissed when I add these to the family.
  23. I'm in the hunt for a new rope. I've decided to stick with a single cord system and was wondering what you pacific northwest climbers are climbing on...and your opinion of your current cord. I'm leaning towards A Mammut Supersafe 70m (longevity and that edge fall rating...not psyched on it's high impact force rating or it's proud price tag). Any thoughts on Beal? Millet? Please help. Think for me.TELL ME WHAT TO BUY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  24. Good on you for trying to get people stoked on your local crag. All this "my own personal super duper ultra secret climbing spot that I can only show you if you take a blood oath, pinky swear and agree to hike in blindfolded" is total bullshit. And if I'm not mistaken the whole point of this thread was to get people talking about climbs that "NOBODY TALKS ABOUT" Unless it's sitting on private land and you are the only one with permission from the owner then you are just gonna have to deal with the fact that someone else might be there enjoying it as much as you are. Atreides, you sexy blue within blue eyed warrior, consider yourself cordially invited to sample the fruits of Cougar. On behalf of the Bend climbing community, I pinky swear not to slash your tires or steal you stereo.
×
×
  • Create New...