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phillygoat

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Posts posted by phillygoat

    freakin' cheaters

    in Spray

    Posted

    Later though, Tommy Caldwell is getting ready to do the Changing Corners pitch on the Nose, but instead of moving straight into it, he climbs up a crack on he left a ways, clips a bolt, then downclimbs and does the crux move on TR. Now, that same friend yells "climbing up easier ground to clip that bolt is cheating".

     

    Your friend isn't fit to wipe the sweat from Tommy's Stealth Suit crotch.

    Worst climb

    in Spray

    Posted

     

    IMNTBHO

     

    bad climbs are generally ones that are put up where there is no true line. they are unaesthetic and cause you to not enjoy the climb because there is no flow. just because a rock has features does not mean there is a good climb there.

     

    Sounds like BBQ the Pope to me!

    Oh, and I'll add Gumby.

    How Long should projects remain virgin?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Ah, you posted before me Kev. So it WAS done. I don't understand why this guy was so attached to this particular route, especially if it was far from his first.

     

    So now he wants to punish the local climbers who had nothing to do with 'disobeying' his wishes, by chopping his routes?!

     

    I don't get it.

    How Long should projects remain virgin?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Stewart- I think it's ridiculous that this thing still is "reserved". I mean, c'mon, TWO YEARS! I understand there are extenuating circumstances, but enough is enough. It's a sport climb on the local choss. Fun choss, but still choss. I say let the kids play.

     

    There is no rope hanging, the top of the route is visible, and oh, by the way, the red tag that used to be on the first draw is now on the anchor- so maybe it's been done already anyway.

    Kurt Vonnegut

    in Spray

    Posted

    "We do, doodley do, doodley, doodley do,

    What we must, muddily must muddily must, muddily must;

    Muddily do, muddily do, muddily do, muddily do,

    Until we bust, bodily bust, bodily bust, bodily bust."

    The Importance Of Restful Climbs

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    MisterE-

     

    Agree with the sentiment, but I think you have it backwards: When you shut your head off and are actually climbing it's more "Zen". Once I'm resting on a route I'm back to trying to force myself to relax, breathe, enjoy the view, etc. In other words: thinking.

     

    As for an anecdote- there's a local sport climb that allows you at about 3/4 way up to step around an arete and sit on it like a saddle. A buddy and I are kinda torn about how we feel about it. One one hand, you're glad to take this rest as the route's quite pumpy, but on the other hand it's almost TOO much of a disruption of upward movement. You end up feelin' kinda 'dirty' for sitting there too long. haha

     

    Good story, Bill! Hey, that reminds me- the same buddy and I found a "head-bar" inside a giant hueco on a route in Thailand.

     

    phillip

    Bolt Nazis

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Of course not...

     

    But it ain't black and white. I'm particularly thinking of routes in which the crux is bolt protected low on the climb, the climbing eases significantly, yet the FA decides to bolt the rest of the route- even though if you pulled the crux, you'd have no problem finishing the route.

    Bolt Nazis

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Joseph-

     

    Once it's been decided that a person is going to put fixed pro on a route, seems like they already admitted that they weren't up to the risk. It seems a bit contrived or a moot point to forgo additional fixed pro later up a route after this first concession.

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