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phillygoat

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Posts posted by phillygoat


  1. Hey there,

     

    I have your jacket in Portland and my buddy has your other jacket, hat and glasses (didn't have room for all of it).

     

    I forgot about it until I emptied my pack yesterday! I gave my buddy a call and he still has your other stuff as well.

     

    What side of town are you on? I'm in SW, my buddy's in SE and we both work the next few nights in a row.

    Maybe get you your stuff back this weekend? Sorry for the late response.

     

    Phillip


  2. Whether you call or email Petzl, make sure to request a shipping label that will be sent to you via email. I called a rep, received a "RA" number, but was refused free shipping at the UPS Store.

     

    When I called Petzl back while at UPS, they said the way they were trying to handle the shipping was a problem and apologized that the code I was given over the phone wouldn't work.


  3. The Oregon job market is tough- many hospitals have removed their new grad positions and require 1-2 years of experience. The area hospitals that offer new grad internships get flooded with applicants for limited positions.

     

    St. Charles in Bend has limited positions even for experienced RNs. The only interview I got in Central OR was at the prison in Madras.

     

    Good luck in your search, but if you aren't finding what you're looking for I'd recommend getting RN work/experience wherever you can while you continue to look.

     

    As someone that just went through this process over the summer, I feel for you! Best of luck on the boards and job hunting.

     


  4. Crimper's right.

     

    From the PRG site via Tom Scales:

     

    "Last but not least, Dracula (5.12a) is in my opinion the best route on the wall. Technical and pumpy, it keeps you thinking all the way to the intimidating finish. Originally an aid line, it was first free-climbed by our own Gary Rall back in 1990. In 2004, my friend Eric Vining and I made the first “clean” ascents, skipping all 10 bolts. The first half of the route is a bit dicey, with the first gear (a couple RPs) coming at the 3rd bolt. Keep it together while climbing the “ramp” and you’re rewarded with bomber placements at the 5th bolt; just don’t get too pumped plugging cams below the pod! We sent Bloodline sans bolts a few days later, which was far less nerve-racking, as it eats gear start to finish.


  5. Alan- can't wait to get a copy of the new book! As a Smith "regular"(Portlander), I really appreciate the history of Smith and your contributions to it. To me, it's incredible that rock quality/type doesn't factor into these rehashed debates about style! I can't imagine leading Heinous on two bolts and wires! Heck, even retro'd lines like Karate Wall are still spooky and intense.

     

    My point: you're a badass and anyone who thinks otherwise hasn't been paying attention! It's quite ironic that you're more "trad" than most of the folks regurgitating the same old anti-bolt rhetoric.

     

    Thanks again for the routes and the guide. I hope to have many years ahead of me trying to repeat your classics.


  6.  

    "John Bachar’s idea of ethics and style will forever be remembered and I hope that all climbers understand that climbing is simply starting on the ground and finishing at the top."

     

    Just like Harding!


  7. Yeah, but passing a knot on a hip belay is EASY.

     

    LOL.

     

    Hey Joseph, do you make your own harness out of webbing too?

     

    Cue photos of Joseph's green, Singer-made harness in 3...2...1...


  8. Raindawg citing Leave No Trace is just like countless, fundamentalist nutjobs citing their bibles, korans, etc.

     

    The source is flawed and, therefore, irrelevant.


  9. I find it interesting that uber clean/ethical guys like Kurt Smith, who showed up at Smith in the 80s and did a ground up FA of a 5.12 to slap the locals in the face over their thoughts on rap bolting, recognized this and later did many rap bolted lines at El Potrero.

     

    Suicidal Tendencies 5.11d "This crumbly face route rises just right of a right-leaning flake. Established from the ground up, the climb never received the cleaning it so desperately needed. Many holds used on the first ascent now litter the base." Alan Watts

     

    At Clear Creek Canyon, "uber clean/ethical" Kurt also "drilled into the black granite of what would soon be Public Enemy, bolted a couple of artificial holds on the upper section, and then sent at 5.13+. Says Smith, '[Chipping] was becoming the norm with some areas. I just wanted to climb that nice, steep wall.'"

     

    BTW, I agree with ya Bill- just having some fun knocking these exalted "trad" guys off their pedestals.


  10. Be Miles Davis!

     

    Had climbing been of interest, the last thing thing Miles would have been is a sport climber and the venue he'd least have been interested in would be a gym - Miles was all about risking.

     

    And the mere idea that there is anything avante garde about the riskless entertainment climbing the suburban hordes have glommed onto is just the sort of self-fulfilling delusion that attracts them in the first place.

     

    Full Heinous Cling (ground up): Go Pat!

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