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Reilly

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Everything posted by Reilly

  1. Jopa, Enchanting commentary; I'm so glad to hear that the past 35 years haven't 'spoiled' the area other than the meth heads. Always liked it up there; I'm in SoCal now :-(. Since the Apocalypse is just around the corner I might just fire up the Gran Torino and head for Marblemount; could probably get 20 acres up there for what my garage will go for here. Sounds like I'd better throw an espresso machine in the Torino's back seat though. Reilly
  2. John, I live in Southern Californicate now but I do get out about once a year. Did a second ascent of a new route in the Valley last year! When I can't climb 5.10 slabs after sitting on my butt for a year I will hang 'em up. I am going to put my wall gear up for sale though; I can't take the crowds and the beds at the Lodge are too good! Jake, Thanks. You know, I knew your 'cousin' Charlie 'back in the day'! Yeah, I'm that old... I actually still have a set of his slider nuts; I don't think I'll sell them.
  3. Gee, it was no problem getting a nice room at the one and only hotel for $6 in 1970! :-) Oh, and a case of Labatts was $2.50...
  4. It is hilarious that those wanker bureaucrats can spend bazillions of taxpayers' dollars to put in roads for the logging companies' benefit. Then how many tens of thousands did they spend to build those berms while they are telling us they don't have the money to keep the roads open? I could rent a decently sized backhoe for say $300 a day and go up there and clear that road in a day or two at the most. I suppose you'd get busted if you did take a dirt bike up there?
  5. Well, a bureaucracy is a bureaucracy is a bureaucracy.
  6. As you look at the north side it goes just up the left side along side the rock. I think it was in Beckey but not well-described, not that it really is worth it. It was just something to do one mid-September day with someone who had never swung an ice-hammer before! "You wanna get hard or what?" After the after-dark down-climbing the rock in crampons with the flashlight in the mouth the answer was "No, I guess not."
  7. 49 bucks for a guide to a chode heap? Drove up there once out of boredom and decided boredom was preferable.
  8. I almost fell off my chair when I read it isn't crowded. Back in the 'day' (70's) you had to have reservations! Where do the Mountaineers go now?
  9. Okay, this isn't a great shot but it suffices as far as my memory serves. The last pitch was definitely 'interesting'. I recall getting a couple of nuts in in the first 45' with the last being a #6 stopper. Then it went up and right heading for the apex of the face; nothing that hard but not a walk. Finally, about 45' above the #6 I was definitely 'jonesing', as you guys say now (I think), for another placement as it was 'hotting up'. I got a #3 stopper in to protect the 9+ final move around the bulge. I think this pitch deserves an 'R' but somebody might go up there and laugh at us these days.
  10. Reilly

    Afghanistan

    I've been there too and they'll smile to your face as long as you're looking at them and dropping cash on 'em. Just don't turn your back. Sure, there are nice people there but they live and breathe corruption; soon as we leave it will all fall apart and the Taliban will be right back.
  11. Thought y'all would like to see this pre-historic photo from 1st ascent of N Face of Colfax in '75; had the Chouinard straight points working this nice-looking ice. Pretty sure there was a Terrordactyl and a Coonyard ice hammer at play too. Didn't bother with screws (Warthogs and Coonyards) except at belays; ice was too crappy to waste time on pro. Reilly
  12. So what is this 'via Ferrata', some sort of escalator they want to build? Or is it non-slip tape for the slabs? What kind of people go up to the mountains now that can't handle the mountains? What's the point?
  13. Comparing a guy who tied a goldline around his waist with a bowline to a guy who used titanium ice screws is like comparing Michael Schumacher to me ol' uncle Sterling. More to the point, or pint as I subconsciously first typed, Fred didn't even know where he was going half the time or what he would see when he got there (having scored his beta in a loggers' bar)! He's living proof you can succeed in life in spite of having ADD (or maybe because of!) as long as you've a good heart and a gift of the gab. God bless him, he's a one-off! luv ya Fred! Reilly Moss How come nobody uses their real names here?
  14. What you guys don't understand is that numbers aren't the issue here bureaucracy is. The whole raison d'etre of bureaucracy is to ensure the existence and continued growth of the beast. If the 'numbers' aren't there rest assured they will soon be, at least on paper, or a new 'issue' will be created to fill the void. Rampant unchecked bureaucracy is what brought down the Soviet Union and it is having its way with western democracies as the current financial situation shows. Canada is worse than the US in this regard. The only way to combat it is to fight it like the cancer it is; you have to cut off the blood/cash-flow. The only two ways to achieve this is at the ministerial level, which is highly unlikely, or the appropriations level. Stop funding the cancer and it withers. There is no other known therapy. The trouble is how do you get to the MP's? Parks Canada is "only in it for the good of the environment and the people". How are you going to rip that Maple Leaf shroud off to reveal the naked king beneath? I don't think you are unless the CAC has some heavy hitters who can do battle on the ministerial level. I could go on but I'm just glad I got to enjoy the Bugs 'back in the day'; went to the far side of the Howsers (early ascent of Chouinard-Beckey and maybe first clean) and back without seeing a soul! Maybe it is my incipient Alzheimers but all I recall of the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col is a snow slog; was I missing something?
  15. This is so sad. It is like the ghost of Frederick Cook come to haunt us. The big difference here being nobody really cares so why not take people at their word? They're not going to be dining out on their story for long, especially if they can't bring a slide show. Reilly Moss FWA Central Buttress Willis Wall; I got the pics but don't care!
  16. Maybe I've figured it out! #1 Self-explanatory #2 Like the big rack? I tried to get the Swede to sling it on his left side but stubborn and swedish are synonyms. #3 Should be titled "This is the Olympic Mountains?" #4 Yeah, I know, matching Good Humor Man pants. I don't think we used our hammers but I wasn't going up there without some Leepers and blades! You will note the double-ropes; mandatory for alpine rock IMHO (especially if you expect choss). I climbed above the belay to get some pro for the start of the traverse (red rope) then I got the blue rope into a manky stopper. As I recall those were the only two pieces on this pitch and, yes, it was a full pitch. But it was only 4th class after the traverse. #5 Entitled "Contemplating the Choss". This is where the hold came off in my hand. #6-8 The big pitch, not that the crack wasn't but this was too good! As I said, the rock was suddenly good here and the pro was 'adequate' but, again, we were glad to have double ropes. Enjoy!
  17. Okay, I found 'em; better 30 years late than never at all. Sorry I couldn't find these before the new guide book was published. Now I guess there will be a stampede on the route. After all, you don't have to go up the Chute too far and that's a really good thing. It was a bit tough coming down it in EB's but it was Sept so there wasn't too much snow. So how the devil do you post photos on this forum? The FAQ for creating an attachment says "When creating a new thread or response, you'll see a "File Manager" link on the "Full Reply" or "New Post" page. When selecting this option you'll receive a popup which will allow you to attach files to your post." I know my eyes aren't what they used to be but I'm not seein' no stinkin' "File Manager". I tried the Enter an Image thing and uploaded the pictures. Then I hit the Photopost and it put my first shot in but I couldn't add any more. But then I started over and those buttons aren't doing anything now! The add an image to my message? FAQ says you have to have the photos available on a server? What, do I look like Google? What happened to just clicking on a 'paper clip' and uploading your images like on a civilized forum? yours, Reilly Moss
  18. Panos, I would still go up the Carbon for this reason: if, as is often the case, you are descending in a storm you are far better off going down the Carbon. You can't get lost, the av danger is low, and it is dead easy. Of course, I am assuming Liberty Ridge would be the descent route as it always was when we were doing the FWA's of the Willis Wall in the 70's. I guess that could be a fallacious assumption. :-) yours, Reilly
  19. John, Sorry to disappoint you regarding the Wandering Minstrel. We had a camera along but didn't climb with it. I did get a good picture of a mountain goat licking the salt off my legs down by the lake though. Furthermore, 30 years on, as to the route all I can recall is that it lived up to its moniker, well, the wandering bit. Since we were a couple of Scots and a human we invoked Whillans and said "Right! A fistful of wee stoppers and some knifeblades should see us through. Straight up, traverse left, up a bit, traverse right, and back up to the left. Right, now, about that pint!" Malcolm, Ulf's Arete should be required reading for any and all. That's the only way to clean off the choss! Actually, I think I got rid of the most offending chunk. When I traversed left from the belay at the top of the big crack I reached a fairly comfy stance from which I could calmly survey my next moves. When I leaned back for a better perspective a large jug came off in my right hand. Since I hadn't fully committed to it I had the time to chuck it before I barn-doored off and pendulumed 15' back into the corner. I also had the time to practice grabbing the head of a striking rattlesnake's head and find another home for my right hand. Einstein was certainly right about the relativity of time. The rest of the pitch is definitely worthy of the worst of the Canadian Rockies-quite steep, totally unprotected, but luckily only 4th class. The last pitch is ab-fab face climbing just to the right of the edge for about half way and then right up the edge! It doesn't get any better. I honestly am not into sandbagging but I am definitely old-school and cannot say it is more than 5.8 but then I always liked face climbing. I do recall the protection as being 'adequate' but then I am a bit jaundiced in that regard having spent too much time with Brits. The rock was quite decent though. As to the first pitch the 'roof' is really just a 'bulge' and very well protected; no worries! I'll definitely try to digitize those slides this week. Merry Christmas Reilly ps I don't see where you 'subscribe' to this or any thread.
  20. Did you match my record of road to Lk Constance in 45 minutes with a full pack? :-) Oh, the crazy things we do when young! Wish I could do it in 2 hours now!
  21. How come my routes on Constance weren't mentioned? I'm hurt! Ulf's Arete is a great climb anywhere but especially the Olympics- a good long crack pitch, a nice exposed traverse, a chossy dangerous bit, and some nice steep face climbing; nothing more than 5.9 (definitely old school)! The Route of the 23rd Party Congress isn't as nice but it probably still awaits a second ascent. I found some of my old slides which I'll post soon... Take smallest Stoppers you have! Reilly Moss
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