Reilly

Mr Mo said a while back: "Valumines was the name of the company; I always just referred to it as the Boston Mine. They were in limited operation in the mid 70's. Finding the Boston Basin trail in those days involved finding and following the black plastic water pipe above the mine. The Cascade Pass trail started at the mine as well and was much shorter than the existing one. Regarding the obliteration and "rehabilitation" of the mine site I hope there's room for another point of view: that the obliterators and rehabbers have either no sense of history or a very finely focused one, and that removal of all traces pretty much amounts to an act of vandalism. The bunkhouse had been pretty much destroyed by a snowslide but I submit that the concentrator should have been left intact. Mining, like it or not, is an important part of Cascades history. This isn't meant as a troll, BTW, though I admit it's probably pretty non-PC." Mr Mo, I agree completely. Those miners were the ultimate studs and should be celebrated. Where would this country be without guys like that who helped drive the industrial engine which made this country? We would be about where we are now, up a creek without an industrial base hoping we can get by on service jobs and 'green' jobs supported by taxing the few people still producing anything. A bit of an over-simplification to be sure but not that far off.

"but you kind of set yourself up for it!" Amen! Is this CC.com or Robert Maplethorpe.com?

Damn! I kept waiting for the punch line but then it eventually dawned on me these people were deadly serious! I'll never get those lost minutes back? Is this the British equivalent of saying "Climbing is dangerous?" It's not even a case of "Hire the handicapped because they're fun to watch" because it wasn't!

Dane, ease up, you're gonna make the kids cry! But I do object to "tagging along!" Actually, I was going to apologize for the hijack attempt! I was also going to compliment Bakes on his shot. I love the frameing, the forlorn refugees dwindling into the distance, and the blown highlights really works to tell the underlying story of runaway bureaucracy. So, Bakes, did ya havta sign a liability release too? Good thing the Fuzz didn't see me ski the Kautz on my 210 K2 Holidays, Silvrettas and Peutereys with full pack. That woulda been 3-5 for sure! Dane, I am going through all my old slides and scanning the decent ones. I'll post up the full monty so they can see how ya do the Deer in winter and get it all in a Sacs Millet day pack! Sleeping bags? There's no sleeping bags in baseball! Older and grumpier but still bringin' it, well, at least verbally... Reilly

You are certainly welcome to your opinion. My opinion is based on actually having been involved in the old Park Service before the law enforcement types and uber-bureaucrats took over. I am well aware there are still many nice people working under their aegis.

These days it would be more than the route that is chopped. Can you say Homeland Security?

RB, Thank you! My nose shows it. Don't even get me started on the Rise and Fall of the National Park Service! Exhibit A: Take one perfectly good National Monument, aka Joshua Tree, and turn it into a freaking Dizzyland. But I digress...

"Hey Reilly! was Rainier even a National park back then?" What's a National Park? I actually was charged for a helo rescue BITD. I still have the bill: Total for 2.5 hours flight time, taxes, and gratuities= $145! Whoo-Hooo! I'll take two! I woulda loved to see the Pine Fuzz ticket me on that solo. I hiked up with Dusan Jagersky and Jim Wickwire so I had my 'muscle' and my legal representation; I was totally covered! There was so much snow on the upper Carbon none of us roped up. After a cozy night together in a cave (no sleeping bags either you pussies!) they went on to do the FWA of the E Buttress of Willis. I've always said the whole rescue thing would be cleared up in a heartbeat if you knew you were going to be charged like they do in Europe. Why don't we establish professional rescue teams and charge for rescues? I'll tell you. First, the inter-agency squabbling would make the toubles in the Middle East look like a Rotary meeting. Two, all those goombahs who make up the volunteer rescue teams would have to actually go do some climbing on the weekends and you know that would not be a pretty sight. Sorry if I've hurt anybody's feelings but I was on NW Rescue for a good while so I have some 'cred'. Most of those goombahs are challenged by climbing out of bed in the morning.

Didn't Tenzing Sherpa do it in 5-1/2 hrs (RT) from Paradise? A permit to solo? Isn't that like a license to kill? Who the hell would bother? I sure didn't when I went for the FWA of W Rib Willis Wall; do I look stupid? Don't answer that. The paperwork is scarier than the climb!

When I saw no replies I figured nobody was 'fessing up. Hi Alex! Reilly

Ivan, In my defense I always point out that Grizzly was at least mid-thigh. See, that makes it not so stupid. By the way, you didn't even see that water moccasin you stepped over, did you? Reilly

Paul, Nice! And to think I've beaten myself up over this lo these many years. I've always managed to keep from admitting it on the sperm bank disclosure forms. Not much worry of somebody coming across your boot! Reilly

Yo Sobo, Yeah, funny for you and it has served me well on the speaking circuit, but I loved those boots, man! Reilly And just imagine that poor little boot traveling a good mile and a half downstream!

Sobo, I wasn't too clear on Tvash's drift (to stay in theme) there either. No, I'm just old Navy, not the clothing, real old Navy. Now, just old :: but still pissed off (since 'Nam) at the politicos.

Nothing says "I Love You" quite like an F18. Yeah, baby, you know those two jocks' right thumbs were twitchin' to flip the Vulcan's trigger cover! But, you have to think of your career and gettin' that not-so-prized-anymore airline job. Still, these jokers took in over $50 million in booty last year (from a remembered radio report, sorry, no linky); that could buy them some fancy fireworks on the black market. That's a lot of khat, isn't it? I don't think they are real big on investing for the future. Besides, there is a point of diminishing returns if it means you're going to waste the ship you're trying to seize. But since you want to play it safe let's give the boys a pair of 50's they can mount on the bridge wings. That ought to keep the yahoos' heads down long enough to get a good bead on 'em with the TOW. The problem would be jarheads killing each other for that duty. You're right again, unfortunately and literally. Gotta be careful, though. Last year a Thai fishing boat was mistakenly sunk by an Indian naval vessel in just such an exchange. They were probably poaching anyway. Rob, im surprised that the shipping companies don't invest in their own security. Why should they when they know they can get the gov to do it for free? What do you think FEMA is? Welfare for State Farm and Allstate, et al. How hard could it be to repel boarders with a couple of deck-mounted heavy guns? They ain't doin' no stinkin' boardin' with 2-50's and a TOW aboard! Obviously, I'm not a sailor. I like girls too much. Watch it bub, you're cruising way inshore now! :-)

Hello kiddies, Back in the day I wouldn't consider going on a serious alpine route without my double nines. Now you're talking 7 point what? I guess I've had too many ropes nearly chopped to be able to fathom that! Old and no longer bold, not that I ever was, Reilly

"The courts of the State which carried out the seizure may decide upon the penalties to be imposed... That would be our courts." See, that is one of the things I am afraid of. "What if the pirates kill the marines, either by sinking the vessel or outgunning them?" The last I read the pirates were packing RPG's and the odd light machine gun. That ain't gonna cut it against a 500' ship especially if the Marines are allowed to fire a shoulder-fired TOW as their first response. End of story! Outgun 6-8 Marines with a couple of M-60's and a TOW? That would be my definition of overwhelming force. Whooeee, I'd pay good money to watch that! You'd better not blink 'cause it sure wouldn't last long. No yahoo bobbing around in a frigging lifeboat/dhow/whatever they cobble together is going to be able to fire accurately enough upwards against coordinated withering and accurate fire from a stable platform to hurt anybody. Surely you've seen how those clowns fire their weapons over their? Every Gyrene I've known would jump at the chance to take those odds. Tvash, you're obviously a good guy so I'm gonna comp you a bonus story. I probably shouldn't but it will probably die a quiet internet death here in the bowels of the CC.com. I know a retired Marine bird colonel whose son is a mega-yacht cap'n. About 4 years ago he had to take one from the Right Coast to the Far East and the owner said it was cool if mom and pop came along (the owner couldn't make the trip). They whooped it up through the Med, down the Red Sea, and pulled into Aden for a fill-up. The local harbormaster-cum-extortionist wanted the son's first born plus a large herd of goats for a night's moorage so they said seeya and headed down the coast. Lotsa details so I'll cut to the chase, literally. The yahoos weren't making great speed but they were gaining on our friends. The good guys had some pretty good heat aboard of the automatic variety (and I don't mean the type you stick in your waistband) but it appeared they might still be outgunned. The cap dials up the owner on the sat and wakes him in his Alexandria, VA mansion. He says "Mr Ambassador (yeah!), we're being pursued, can you call in some favors?" The good ambassador says, "I'll call you back ASAP." Good to his word he's back in a few, "The Vinson's (CVN 70 was on its way to the Gulf) CAP is on their way on full AB. ETA about 15, are you good til then?" The colonel was a little miffed to hear this I think but with the wife aboard he decided it was a good thing. I'm afraid I must report that no shots were actually fired as the sonic boom of the two F-18's rolling in was enough to put paid to that little contretemps; what a pity, it would have topped the charts at YouTube. It is good to have friends in high places!

What good would that do if the pirates, as is currently being done, are just handed over to the Somali 'authorities'? That is like releasing Al Capone on his own recognizance. Lord Nelson must be rolling over in his grave. If those had been his Marines as soon as they were engaged he would have told them to stand off while the frigate blew the SOB's out of the water. Also, under the Law you have to catch them in the act. Failing that once they are in possession they then have hostages. My solution is cost-effective and wouldn't require as big a naval presence. You might want to put 6 Marines aboard with a little more firepower, like shoulder-launchers, just to make sure they make their point. In that part of the world they don't understand or respect subtlety.

"I have not paid enough attention to really know, but I can well imagine that the decommissioning of that road might be about politics, money, and control more than it is about saving Bullhead. I'd like to know what other's may have to say about this, because my paranoid thoughts may be entirely unjust." To Mattp from the first page, You're not paranoid if you suspect nefarious and highly suspect decisions to be the norm in government, you're just being realistic. Remember, bureaucracy is 'Exhibit A' of The Origin of Species and Chapter 3 in particular: "Struggle for Existence". If you examine bureaucracy through this lens you will be seeing it most clearly.

Wow, at least when I did the Willis Wall everything was frozen in place! Nice going! At least you won't have to worry about somebody repeating it and dissing you! :-) But seriously, choad and cheap wine are good for you 'cause then the reasonable varieties seem so good.

I don't recall any snowmobiles on the Shoestring Glacier route. Hmmm.... A cougar did try to join me at the start though! She didn't have her own Terrordactyl and there wasn't a rope to tie onto so away she went, mad as hell!

As a former Naval officer I offer the following solution: Why we don't park a frigate off Bab Al-Mandab and get the Brits and Frogs to put a few to the east of Somalia. When the freighters come through the Bab we put 4 gyrenes on board with a couple of M-60's and a credit card swiper. We do take American Express, don't we? When they clear to the east they get to eat French until they're picked up for the return trip. At $2000/day we make money, the gyrenes don't eat sand unless there's a khamsin, and everybody but the somalis is/are happy! I know, it's too simple.

Gib Ledges would be safest in my opinion plus you stand at least a snowball's chance of finding your way down in a storm. Liberty Ridge was a good descent route in a storm after FWA of Willis Wall; hard to get lost and low av danger. A long walk out though - :-)

I find it 'interesting' that for many years we enjoyed the 'wilds' fee-free. Probably not coincidentally the timber companies and the Japanese also enjoyed absurdly low prices for timber not to mention free roads in to the logging areas. Now we have to pay while the Weyerhauser grandchildren live large off of the Forest Service's largesse.

A most excellent story! I suspect Lincoln would see more traffic if the preferred protection for the rock climbing was something other than snow flukes! My vote is for Goode based on approach and route difficulty. As a bonus aside I also offer this embarassing mea culpa. I went in to solo the NE Face a hundred years ago ('72-73?). When I got to Grizzly Creek it was about 30 meters wide and raging. I de-booted, tied my boots together and slung them around my neck, and un-buckled my waist belt in case I went down. Halfway across my feet were numb, my brain was before I started, and I was very annoyed at the boots hanging and banging my chest. I found a flat rock mid-stream to put my pack on and get up on to warm my feet. The far bank was now only about 50' away. I untied my boots to throw them across. Stop laughing, I'm not done! I took the first one and firmly grasped the laces and started twirling it like David lining up Goliath. When I figured I had developed the angular velocity required I initiated the launch sequence. What I hadn't anticipated was that in the process of opening my hand to release there was a hidden murphyism that entailed, so to speak, the laces wrapping themselves around one of my fingers. In my defense let it be said that I had correctly estimated the requisite angular velocity as boot #1 came within about 2.5 meters, if the burning memory serves, of a dry landing. In the defense of the good cobblers at Galibier let it be said that they craft a very seaworthy boot. Not only is the Galibier Peuterey self-righting it also has excellent longitudinal stability, in water not air. The last I saw it was on an even keel with bow downstream making excellent headway. A frantic chase, barefoot and nigh unto naked, through the bushes only confirmed the sadly excellent stability and hull speed of the Peuterey. To add insult to injury I had to re-cross the 'creek' to contemplate the 9 mile (?) return to Stehekin. You can well imagine the looks I got upon my arrival. "Get into a backcountry game of strip poker, did we?" I've never gone on a trip since without yards of athletic tape as it does make a passable if absurd-looking moccasin. An x-files addendum to this sad tale occurred the next summer. Bob Crawford (I only climbed with him once because he tried to get us both arrested and killed in one long Leavenworth weekend) and a friend went in to do the NE Face. A good mile or more before the Grizzly Creek crossing he walked down from the trail to N Bridge Creek to get a drink. Yes, at this point at least 1.5 miles from the crossing, he found my beached boot! He knew it was mine yet he left it! Happy 2009! Reilly Moss