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Lipschitz

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Posts posted by Lipschitz


  1. Trip: Obersvation Rock - North Face

     

    Date: 10/16/2010

     

    Trip Report:

    Matt, Alin and I went to have some fun on ice yesterday. There was finally decent ice on the NF. It took screws quite well. We had to use a picket a couple of times. We had a 70m rope for 3 people and ended up doing 5 half-rope pitches. A fun day with a spectacular sunset. We spent very little time on top of The Rock since we were running out of daylight. Almost 13 hours car-to-car.

     

    The last short pitch

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    The NF that we climbed.

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    Abseiling to the glacier to the left of the NF

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    Putting on crampons for the last snow walk

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    Moon, Rainer & Rock

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    Gear Notes:

    5 screws, 1 picket, 70m rope


  2. Trip: Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier variation

     

    Date: 8/21/2010

     

    Trip Report:

    Seb France and I climbed Shuksan car-to-car on Saturday. We left the car at 1am and by the time we reached the camp at 5400ft the moon had already set. So we couldn't see the trail going towards the right at that point. We followed an obvious trail on the left ridge and were encouraged when we saw boot tracks. Unfortunately it was the wrong way and it cost us an extra 1000ft vertical and walking on annoying talus, wet moss and brushes. We finally met the Sulphie glacier at 6400ft.

     

    The glacier is in excellent condition. The snow was hard early in the morning, perfect for crampons.

     

    We were surprised to see only 5 people the whole day. We saw 2 climbers emerging from the Hell's Highway (we were already on descent, way below them). A lot later we met 3 more guys who were going up to camp. I really didn't expect solitude on this popular route.

     

    I learned that I need to be more careful when navigating an unfamilar route at night.

     

    Off route by sunrise

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    On the Sulphide glacier

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    Morning light

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    Baker

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    The steeper snow

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    Seb approaching the summit

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    Icy Peak and Nooksack Cirque

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    Flowers on the pyramid

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    2 climbers (in the left corner, below the crevasse) coming from the Fisher Chimneys

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    The weather moving in

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    We should've gone to the right here

    Sulph1108.jpg

     

    Our actual route

    Sulph1111.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Ice axe, crampons, 30m light glacier rope


  3. CD c2c, mid July, left car at 12am, we were the 2nd team on the summit

    Easton c2c, early July, left car at 1030pm, we were the 1st team on the summit

     

    I like to leave early so there are as few climbers as possible ahead of me on the roman wall.

     

     


  4. Recently rode my bicycle from Seattle to North Carolina (solo, self-supported...am in good shape

    After this ride you must be in superb shape, not just good. :) You reminded me of this fellow Erden Eruc who cycled from Seattle to Alaska and then climbed Denali. Anyway, PM me if other climbing plans fall through and you want to do a car-to-car Rainier/DC.

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