OlegV
-
Posts
668 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by OlegV
-
-
the cold war never ended. it just went into remission, like herpes.
I like that
-
i still can't understand how you fellars lost the cold war
I don't think we did
Gorbachov wanted a summer house in Pasadena, so he went soft on you guys -
in russia, mountain climbs YOU
Yep, Russians pagans say: "Mountain was impending us"
-
Trip: Mt Stuart - The complete North Ridge
Date: 9/14/2013
Trip Report:
Cheating death is an addiction.
Awakened by a powerful blow of the mighty northern wind, my mind returns from a catatonic state to reality. With my back firmly pressed against a perfect crack of the great Gendarme, I am overwhelmed by a strong feeling of being a part of this ancient tower. I celebrate the arrival of 3 o’clock and continue counting endless hours. Time passes slowly. Nastia and I are crouched in fetal position attached by our umbilical cords to the rappel bolts at the small ledge next the Gendarme. Because the morning forecast didn’t look good, we are mentally prepared to a difficult escape. We cherish clear starry skies and pray mountain Gods for no rain in the morning.
The previous day progress to the base of the North Ridge was stalled by difficult route finding and heat. We simply ran out of water and had to drink shit. The high traverse across the icy Stuart glacier without ice axes and crampons was interesting. Fortunately, no grey matter substance was spilled against the rocks. We downclimbed wet ledges and settled at the bivy site not far from the toe of the ridge. Feeling dehydrated, we drank water that looked like muddy sewage coming out of the broken Taj Mahal pipe. Fack Giardia – if we fertilize this valley, the Earth will be much greener!
The complete North Ridge from the Goat Pass:
Nastia at the first bivy site:
The lower ridge is a fun crag. Nastia is having double-fun following the constricted 5.8 slot and the 5.9 crack with a heavy pack filled with bivy gear and mini pizzas. We can fight obesity with strenuous exercise and fear! We are now being followed by Ryan and his companions. At noon, they catch up with us at the notch. For a while, we climb side by side. To avoid a bottle neck, we slow down, giving up on the idea of going to the summit the same day. Because we are hard alpinists made of rusty Russian steel, we pass the bivy sites and choose to sleep at the toe of the Gendarme exposed to cold northern winds …
Nastia starting on p1:
Oleg, p2:
Nastia, p3:
Looking down:
Oleg, p4 (5.9 crack):
Nastia at the lower ridge:
Nastia pulling some hard moves:
The Ice Cliff Glacier:
Three teams on the ridge:
Approaching the gendarme:
Awakened by a weak whisper of the alarm clock, we welcome morning inversion and strangely looking clouds. I secretly drink water, but Nastia stops me with harsh Russian comments. We say “Fack” to bypass and prepare to climb the cold wavy crack just above our heads. The first pitch is made of the perfect granite; the crack is solid and has female body shape... climbing is equally enjoyable. We are feeling the exposure of what lies ahead of us. The sight of old gear permanently stuck in the cracks makes us feel somehow close to many, Jim Wickwire included, who crawled up this masterpiece over the years. I burry my elbows in the wide gaping groove and walk my way up the crack using the two #3s as the extension of my hands. Nastia follows me, looking surreal with her big pack and blushing face.
Sunrise:
The great Gendarme:
Oleg leading the p1 of the Gendarme:
Oleg leading the p2 of the Gendarme:
Many pitches later and some off-route travel we arrive to the summit feeling happy and tired.
Descent: we never find a trail that goes right of Cascadian. Keywords: down-climbing south; bushwhack, approaching thunderstorm, dealing with a woman and a man, discovering running water, great relief, very long pass, parking lot, downpour, hale. Aaron B generously offered to crash at his place in Seattle instead of us driving to PDX. He said I looked like real shit which is true. Aaron is a master chief who knows how to cook the best post recovery dinner and how to drink whiskey and a beer! Bravo!!!
Gear Notes:
5 mini-pizzas, 5 sneakers bars, lots of vitamin C, medium rack, few doubles, light bivy gear, compass, topos.
Approach Notes:
nasty
-
Very nice work! Aaron and I were worried about you guys! We were ready to go and rescue you!
-
wow, that was fast. you make it sound easy
-
great job! any details on the route? did you bivy?
-
great trip, Stephen
-
I heard it is possible to do a snow-free downclimb of Stuart via the Sherpa glacier route. I've done it in May and it was steep. Does anyone have experiences doing this downclimb in late season?
-
-
those pix look surreal!!!!
-
I figure Backbone will be my next trip to the top, thanks for the TR and pictures.
Definetly, one of the best alpine rock in Cascades I ever climbed! I thought the grade was a little soft.
-
nice work!! I like your protein-rich after snack. did you kill the goat?
-
-
it was my fault. i insisted on taking out chances with raps. i like you Neanderthal-style tool in your hands, Nastia
-
Aaron ended up being a great partner! Canadian whiskey, a buddy and solid granit, what else do you need in Alps?
I think the second rappel anchor needs rebuilding - maybe by extending the slings? I was a bit shaken going down the slot, thinking I will never have a beer again
-
I am meeting my partner for the backbone ridge at the Colchuk lake Sat afternoon. I am looking for a person who is willing to drive with me to the TH and leave Leavenworth Monday morning. I need to make a short stop at Ellensburg on Monday.
503-332-9405
-
-
AMAZING pxs!!!
-
Your kids are troopers!!
-
-
looks like the worst slog in the world
-
-
[TR] Prusik Peak - Stanley/Burgner 9/14/2013
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
the rock looks outstanding!