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Everything posted by OlegV

  1. [TR] Slesse - NE Buttress 9/11/2013

    wow, that was fast. you make it sound easy
  2. [TR] Slesse - NE Buttress 9/11/2013

    great job! any details on the route? did you bivy?
  3. [TR] Tomyhoi Peak - SE Ridge (Standard) 9/8/2013

    great trip, Stephen
  4. those pix look surreal!!!!
  5. [TR] Dragontail - Backbone Ridge 9/1/2013

    Definetly, one of the best alpine rock in Cascades I ever climbed! I thought the grade was a little soft.
  6. [TR] Triumph - NE Ridge 9/1/2013

    nice work!! I like your protein-rich after snack. did you kill the goat?
  7. [TR] Dragontail - Backbone Ridge 9/1/2013

    it was my fault. i insisted on taking out chances with raps. i like you Neanderthal-style tool in your hands, Nastia
  8. [TR] Dragontail - Backbone Ridge 9/1/2013

    Aaron ended up being a great partner! Canadian whiskey, a buddy and solid granit, what else do you need in Alps? I think the second rappel anchor needs rebuilding - maybe by extending the slings? I was a bit shaken going down the slot, thinking I will never have a beer again
  9. I am meeting my partner for the backbone ridge at the Colchuk lake Sat afternoon. I am looking for a person who is willing to drive with me to the TH and leave Leavenworth Monday morning. I need to make a short stop at Ellensburg on Monday. 503-332-9405
  10. [TR] Seven Fingered Jack (7FJ) - SW Slope 8/18/2013

    Your kids are troopers!!
  11. Trip: Mt Torment - The South ridge, the House of Pain Date: 9/2/2012 Trip Report: From Merriam-Webster online: Definition of TORMENT 1) The infliction of torture (as by rack or wheel). 2) Extreme pain or anguish of body or mind: agony. 3) A source of vexation or pain. Who: Buckaroo, Alpine Tom, YocumRidge, OlegV - as follows: The dream of J-burg: Below the first pitch: Nastia on belay: Oleg at the summit: Nastia approaching the summit: A sudden and heavy wakeup call brings him back out of hibernation, triggering a millisecond-long release of adrenalin and involuntary muscle contraction. Rock fall again! Tom wakes up in a short jumping burst; his body is prepared to fight a large sword-tooth tiger. His shaky pedestal gives in causing a butterfly effect sending a shockwave of rock fall. Unevenly shaped blocks tumble down landing an inch away from Nastia’s head protected only by a thin layer of face-warming gaiters. Cry out, woman - scream to the top of your lungs into a cold Cascadian night - no human being will hear your chant. Buckaroo, a mountain craftsman, constructs a spacious bivy ledge just below the summit ridge on the sloping north side of Mount Torment. Having climbed through the tormented mountain terrains, we opt to spend a night in the surreal world dominated by the captivating views of Eldorado. We share the last drops of water and discuss the possibility of drinking body fluids and eating the skunk-smelling grass. My “light and fast” air mattress fails at dusk. I am irritated and angry at the modern tourist industry. Mass-produced products are made of sealed garbage bags, compressed aluminum foil, and colorful pillow filling. I would rather harden my body and soul by hauling steel carcasses and by wearing grey but sturdy clothes. I sleep jammed in my old and heavy NF backpack – it helped solidify the harmony of nature with my own self. Sunset in Cascades: Eldorado: Clouds: Red: Our bivy: Veiw from the bivy: Getting ready for cold night: Covered in ice: Tom in the morning: The morning light doesn’t bring us warmth or the hope for easy survival. Eager to get down the disintegrating mountain, we crawl over the saddle that separates the north and south sides and begin our descent down the south-east face of the Torment. Down the SE face: Dodging flying rocks, finding old rappel slings, getting the rope unstuck (thank you to Buckaroo’s bravery and skills), we finally arrive to the last double-rope rappel station just above the glacier. We don’t see the glacier, but we hope it is all over. Yet, the fun has just begun. A giant gaping moat separates the vertical wall of rock and the vertical wall of ice. Rock wall: Ice: Buckaroo takes his time coming down and finally yells: “Put on your crampons and have ice tools ready!!!” I go next; a moment later I discover myself hanging in the midair 30 feet above the sloping void leading to the subglacial river of potentially slow suffer and death. How would it feel to be sucked into this river? The images of being buried alive between the glacier floor and the megaton sheet of ice cross my mind. Drowning in the mountains is rare, but possible. Maybe in the 23d century, some hobbyist-archeologist will find our bones buried in the sand of the North Cascade desert… I wake up in reality, push of the rock, swing out, and somehow manage to stick my tool into the fluctuating wall of the iceberg. “Got to climb straight up, can you?” – Buckaroo asks. I agree. He belays me of the pickets – I go up and over trying to crash the lip of the crevasse. Buckaroo follows. We set up an anchor at the edge of the moat and design a cleaver strategy to help others cross the moat: once a person repels to the level of the glacier, we would pool the end of the rope and bring a dangling body across the gap of the crevasse. It works like a charm. Nastia and Tom are surprised and slightly cranky, but the nervous trauma of the trip slowly fades away as we progress down the glacier towards the green light and running water. We enter the paradise of the Boston Basin, relax and taste the air. We see our fellow-climbers… Tom in the end of the fearfest: Gear Notes: 2 ropes steel crampons ice tools Approach Notes: dusty
  12. [TR] Denali - West Buttress 6/5/2013

    looks like the worst slog in the world
  13. [TR] Torment Forbidden Traverse - 7/26/2013

    Amazing trip and photos, Lance and Nastia! The rock looks pretty solid to me. You don't even look tired! Got to move to grade VI!
  14. very nice work. I wish I knew how to aid
  15. [TR] Maude - Circumnavigation and Return 7/28/2013

    looks nice and loose!
  16. Congtats Pat and Eric. I like an umbrella shot!
  17. the best experience yo ucan get in the AK!