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Everything posted by OlegV

  1. Hood, Sandy HW this weekend

    check your PMs
  2. sport climbing and erosion

    I would like to start a new discussion by making a bold and scientifically reasonable statement: sport routes destroy the mountains as they accelerate erosion. Because sport climbing routes typically involve very closely spaced bolts, it is reasonable to assume that a single-file line of bolts created micro-fractures in the rock face. Any pros and cons? Stay calm.
  3. sport climbing and erosion

    That's really cool. I was 14 when the rendezvous took place and it was the most excitement I'd had since Apollo 13 blew a tank a few years earlier. I hate to say it, but the geopolitical world was a much more understandable place back in the days when you and I lived on the brink of a nuclear holocaust. I was in my early teens as well when humans started acting like a single species...just for a brief moment. I kind off spaced out not realizing the cold war was on. What helped me stay ignorant, reading books like this: Alenxander Beliaev "Star Katc" written in the 50s! This guy looks like a superman!!!
  4. sport climbing and erosion

    Why the hell Americans and Russians stopped getting high together? When I was growing up, religiously collecting these stamps, they promised to have artificial gardens on Mars. BTW, I have this stamp!
  5. sport climbing and erosion

    dunno - pretty certain you gotta have some sorta ring though she got my 1/2 lb golden ring. I got a pair of socks with the hole in them - work just fine if you cut off the bottom part.
  6. sport climbing and erosion

    considering a marmionship!
  7. sport climbing and erosion

    seems awfully unfair for berlusconi to be left out of this party How do I join a masonic party in Portland?
  8. sport climbing and erosion

    This guy (starring by Leonov) is a main character in a great Russian comedy "Gentlemen of luck”. He is a snitch (just a normal guy, a teacher in a daycare) who was integrated into a Russian prison to establish his dominance as “Pahan” (King). Although this episode is in Russian, watch a scene when he screams “Пасть порву, моргалы выколю!!!” It translates as “I will tear your trap and poke your blinkers” (prison slang)
  9. sport climbing and erosion

    We will be drinking vodka with Obama and Putin soon, singing "Girls, girls, girls..."
  10. sport climbing and erosion

    To avoid generalization, we need to grant Ivan red passport and take away my US passport first. I will make sure the cliffs are free of dust if you restrain your lovely kids from shopping in the local gunshops...
  11. sport climbing and erosion

    What language do I speak to people who confuse Pushkin with Putin?
  12. sport climbing and erosion

    I am simply a poet. How did you miss it?
  13. sport climbing and erosion

    What the fuck did I do, people?
  14. sport climbing and erosion

    Brothers! We all love mountains. Let us stop fighting, get laid and drunk and aim our guns at our common enemies. We all know what and who first drains and then kills a man of any nationality… right Pat?
  15. sport climbing and erosion

    Pat, I have a lot of bones in my head indeed. I am trying to make the point that the mountains will soon (speaking on a geological time scale) be gone as we turn them and the rest of the planet into a tourist attractions, dig ledges, carve deep trails around rock formation, not to mention the a spirit of the Hill is being lost. I know few older climbers who quit going to Smith because it was turned into a Disney Land. People have been living in the caves for many thousands of years with very little impact on nature. Shitting and peeing in the mountains does not destroy them, technology does. Keep our planet wild.
  16. I like a white dress in the mountians
  17. The mountains should not belong to the goverment!
  18. Trip: Mt Stuart - The complete North Ridge Date: 9/14/2013 Trip Report: Cheating death is an addiction. Awakened by a powerful blow of the mighty northern wind, my mind returns from a catatonic state to reality. With my back firmly pressed against a perfect crack of the great Gendarme, I am overwhelmed by a strong feeling of being a part of this ancient tower. I celebrate the arrival of 3 o’clock and continue counting endless hours. Time passes slowly. Nastia and I are crouched in fetal position attached by our umbilical cords to the rappel bolts at the small ledge next the Gendarme. Because the morning forecast didn’t look good, we are mentally prepared to a difficult escape. We cherish clear starry skies and pray mountain Gods for no rain in the morning. The previous day progress to the base of the North Ridge was stalled by difficult route finding and heat. We simply ran out of water and had to drink shit. The high traverse across the icy Stuart glacier without ice axes and crampons was interesting. Fortunately, no grey matter substance was spilled against the rocks. We downclimbed wet ledges and settled at the bivy site not far from the toe of the ridge. Feeling dehydrated, we drank water that looked like muddy sewage coming out of the broken Taj Mahal pipe. Fack Giardia – if we fertilize this valley, the Earth will be much greener! The complete North Ridge from the Goat Pass: Nastia at the first bivy site: The lower ridge is a fun crag. Nastia is having double-fun following the constricted 5.8 slot and the 5.9 crack with a heavy pack filled with bivy gear and mini pizzas. We can fight obesity with strenuous exercise and fear! We are now being followed by Ryan and his companions. At noon, they catch up with us at the notch. For a while, we climb side by side. To avoid a bottle neck, we slow down, giving up on the idea of going to the summit the same day. Because we are hard alpinists made of rusty Russian steel, we pass the bivy sites and choose to sleep at the toe of the Gendarme exposed to cold northern winds … Nastia starting on p1: Oleg, p2: Nastia, p3: Looking down: Oleg, p4 (5.9 crack): Nastia at the lower ridge: Nastia pulling some hard moves: The Ice Cliff Glacier: Three teams on the ridge: Approaching the gendarme: Awakened by a weak whisper of the alarm clock, we welcome morning inversion and strangely looking clouds. I secretly drink water, but Nastia stops me with harsh Russian comments. We say “Fack” to bypass and prepare to climb the cold wavy crack just above our heads. The first pitch is made of the perfect granite; the crack is solid and has female body shape... climbing is equally enjoyable. We are feeling the exposure of what lies ahead of us. The sight of old gear permanently stuck in the cracks makes us feel somehow close to many, Jim Wickwire included, who crawled up this masterpiece over the years. I burry my elbows in the wide gaping groove and walk my way up the crack using the two #3s as the extension of my hands. Nastia follows me, looking surreal with her big pack and blushing face. Sunrise: The great Gendarme: Oleg leading the p1 of the Gendarme: Oleg leading the p2 of the Gendarme: Many pitches later and some off-route travel we arrive to the summit feeling happy and tired. Descent: we never find a trail that goes right of Cascadian. Keywords: down-climbing south; bushwhack, approaching thunderstorm, dealing with a woman and a man, discovering running water, great relief, very long pass, parking lot, downpour, hale. Aaron B generously offered to crash at his place in Seattle instead of us driving to PDX. He said I looked like real shit which is true. Aaron is a master chief who knows how to cook the best post recovery dinner and how to drink whiskey and a beer! Bravo!!! Gear Notes: 5 mini-pizzas, 5 sneakers bars, lots of vitamin C, medium rack, few doubles, light bivy gear, compass, topos. Approach Notes: nasty
  19. [TR] The Tooth - S Face 10/13/2013

  20. You are welcome. Are you stuck mentally in the cold war era?
  21. Trip: Liberty Ridge - Erotic Suicide Date: 6/29/2013 Trip Report: The mountain almost blinded me because I betrayed two women and was cursed by a gypsy and a witch. They wanted to see me failed or die, but I just laughed at them and left the town. I wanted to solo the Ridge to prove my love to HIM in exchange to MY own immortality. We had each other now and forever. HE loved me unconditionally, leaving me with a sharp taste of blood in my mouth mixed with the feel of fear and extreme exhaustion. For four hours I follow the climbing birds Tom, Joe and Patrick to the Curtis camp. I suddenly see a mountain queen Nastia sitting at the toe of the Carbon glacier - I am suddenly in a safe company of my friend. I think again, HE doesn’t play a dice, HE violently shifts our future. We live, we climb, or we die, not sure why. We cross the Carbon bound by a thin rope... The curse of the woman wasn’t strong enough to kill me. I hear a whipping sound as a solid cube of death hits the ledge, flies toward me, missing my head by an inch. I kiss the Ridge and push on up the mountain. A single push to the Thumb rock makes you tired when you are double-twenty, although there is no such thing as age, as we know it. There is no bad or good either. We are nothing but bio-recycling machines…up to the point when we get hit by a flying rock, fall in the crevasse, or die from a heart attack or overeating. Patrick’s team is flying up the ridge as if they have invisible wings; we follow, reluctantly observing the approaching avalanche, spitting out the river of ice along the right slope of the ridge. It would kill us all if we lived in the alternative universe. Finding comfort in the shade of the Willis Wall turns you into a slave of dark angels. They live here, wandering between slopes and ice cliffs, touching and dislodging piles of loose rocks, sticking out their sharp tongues, grimacing. As we try to prove our immortality, they flip a dice and play their games. I wonder where you go when you get chosen by a dark angel. I’d like to be a part of an ice cliff, and I will be, some sunny day… At the Thumb rock we meet several other teams, love their company and laugh. We leave last at 3 am, following the deep tracks of our comrades. We see their faint headlamps glaring at the far distance. We follow a beautiful ridge line, enjoying easy climbing, bright stars, and the calmness of the night. The Ridge is simple, but the oxygen is sparse. Feeling tired, we get to the top of the snow ramp and rest, consuming liquid REI energy and Safeway leftovers. Our stomachs resist, but we insist on quick digestion and simple sugar for our muscles and brains. As we get to the bergschrund, Nastia leads the ice pitch. Suddenly, as I follow, my sunglasses break exposing my left eye to a deadly Rainier sun, I drop a piece of pro, feeling irritated and angry at myself. I am still being cursed by a woman. Nastia lowers me into the crevasse to retrieve a piece. We push on… We are finally standing at the base of the exit ramp looking at the Liberty Cap. Ignoring existing tracks, Nastia leads a steep and rotten pitch of black ice mixed with fresh snow and melting slash. Wet slide is very possible here. I follow, celebrating the arrival of the flat world of the Liberty Cap. We descend… Carbon from Curtis ridge: Liberty Ridge in the morning: Crossing Carbon: Joe and friends at the base of the shrund below Thumb rock: To the Thumb! At the Thumb rock camp: Starting up the upper ridge in the morning: Liberty Gl.: Pano from 13200': Crossing the Liberty shrund: Black ice to the summit ridge: On the Liberty Cap: