hemp22

heh, somehow i doubt that the throngs of folks that horde up the SE corner every summer are all equipped with offsets. Stoppers, Curvenuts, Rocks, Wallnuts, etc all work perfectly fine at either beacon or smith. Although, now that i'm working on becoming a true gear whore, I do find the occasional placement where an offset or a WC ultralight leaves me with a more pleasant feeling. Ivan - good job on getting out & fighting the sub-optimal conditions again. looks like fun, in a masochistic sort of way.

Sounds like a great trip. The pics made it into your gallery, so they're on the site - now you just need to link them in your TR using the img function: [ img ] url.ending.with.jpg [ /img ] (no spaces) If you need to find your gallery, just click on your name and choose View Photos, and then go to the picture (so it shows up medium sized), and right-click on it to get the URL. like so: by the way - snow looked a little firm - how was the landing?

just looked at my book - sounds like "Packin' Heat", .13A. Just a little to the left of the water drainage, 5-6 bolts angling kind of to the left as it goes up, prominent arete. I don't know anything about the history of the route, but the FA is listed in '93. The guy who did the FA is still somewhat local & still climbs, so you could ask him.

Any beta on patching/repairing a small hole/tear in an eVent jacket? It's about the size of a nickel. I'm thinking McNett goretex patch kit & Seamseal, probably on the inside of the garment - any thoughts on if these will adhere well to the Event?

counting fail?

I don't want to get in the way of a good cat-fight, but I'm curious: What local routes does Kevbone (or anyone else here) think are run-out or a waste of space?

between the title of the thread and the name of the poster, I was hoping this was going to be for the much-anticipated Cliffhanger sequel

damn. yeah, those guys lucked out, considering some pretty poor decision-making. Nice commercial for the BD avalung though. And I think it's pretty common practice to never have your hands in the pole straps when in the B/C, for exactly that reason. At least everyone I ski with seems to know this or have been taught this.

There is recent trail improvement there that is much more recent than tony's last adopt-a-crag. yes, the access fund trail work day does a lot of great work, and it usually gets posted here in advance - so I encourage going to those. But the work that you just noted was not from the adopt-a-crag.

Thanks for getting that done. A buddy and I were going to head out later this week, so you saved me a trip. If no one pipes up to claim the hardware, there are a few climbs out there that are in need of new hangers, and would be a good way to put them to use.

still there as of yesterday. there's a slight chance i'll get there later today too, but it's not looking good.

the bolts at bat wall aren't gonna pop out like that. That basalt is a lot more solid than the sandstone that the above accident occurred on. Also, the bolts on bat wall can't be wiggled by hand like in the video....

The other train-wreck is still perfectly intact over in the Rock Climbing forum under the post of the same title...

personally, since seeing or hearing about a wise climber setting up rap lines up higher at silver bullet wall, I've taken to doing the same thing. A single-line rap off a tree to get down to the chains at either silver bullet or flakey old man (or numerous other climbs at RB) is worth the extra time. Maybe that tip should go into the PRC guidebook. But I doubt that rappel bolts or a fixed line would help much or last very long.

i had the same thought initially - all our firefighters are professional rock climbers? who knew? It doesn't look like any of them are wearing prana or patagucci in the photo... I also liked the last line saying that climbers should know where they are in case of emergency. But, at least it sounds like the climber isn't too seriously injured. Hope they make a full recovery & get back to climbing.

[video:youtube]46ODjgd22vY

turtle-head-points....kind of like going for the brown-point and falling off in the middle of the crux... back on topic - i rarely use one, and never felt the need for one on some of the routes listed above...but i don't climb hard enough to ever get on one of those routes where the first bolt is placed with the intention that it's always stick clipped...

yeah, i'm in agreement with bill - bolts should be gone by the end of the weekend - but maybe leave the holes until it's warm & dry enough to do a proper patch job. I don't know enough about bolts to know whether those guys could be re-used or anything, but at the very least, the hangers could find some more deserving homes on some of the other broughton's routes. ideally, the guys who put in the bolts would happen to be there while they're getting removed, so people could A) talk some sense in to them, and B) return their hardware to them to avoid hard feelings over that...

That's a great idea, thanks for doing it. will be there.

So, looking at the full-size version of one of Kevbone's pics, you can see there's a locking leaver biner on what appears to be the highest bolt (the one a few feet above the little roof). So, maybe these guys did at least stop after crimper talked to them... full size pic link

yeah - sounds pretty bad. The base of their route is out of the picture, so there are some bolts closer to ground not shown in the picture. And the picture is fuzzy enough that you probably can't see all their bolts, even in the larger version. While I'm in favor of pulling the bolts (& patching cleanly), I also think the guys who did this need to be found & made aware of how many people are opposed to their decision. i.e. so they don't think it's just a 1-man "vigilante"-type who chopped the bolts. Maybe if anyone can get out there on the weekend, try to see if the guys show up again at the scene of the crime. also - to the best of my knowledge from memory & the Olson topo, I tried to draw in where I think Dracula (in blue) and the Wallace/Olson "Gym"-themed aid lines (in green) go. But maybe those guys can correct me if I'm off a bit. (Click on photo for larger version) ugh.

Damn, that sucks. I can't make the Feb 3rd meeting, but will send emails. for what it's worth, I'm pretty familiar with the Knights bridge area in question, and over the last 20 years, it has gone through a lot of the same turmoil as Madrone - first totally open & unregulated, then posted with No-trespassing signs, then the signs just got ignored, then, they finally caved in and put gravel & a portapotty in the parking lot. But yeah, it seems odd & inappropriate that it was done more under the radar.

Trillium lake area. Or maybe Mirror Lake, below Tom Dick Harry peak. Both a pretty convenient, and also popular & well-travelled during the day. If you're looking for more seclusion, you'll need to go further off the beaten path.

Sorry, update: I looked at the full-size version of the image in the image gallery: Full size image link And I can see the bolts. It looks like they go straight up through the blank section just to the left of dracula. That's a little to the right of the main line drawn in the book as the aid line - but the topo also shows a secondary line traversing over that blank section to join dracula...so, yeah, it looks like they cross.

straight up the middle - off that little pedestal? I think that looks like Dracula. But maybe my memory's fuzzy. I think the Wallace/Olson aid line starts at the shaded right facing corner on the left, and goes up through the sort of dog-legging undercling to the left, then follows the tiny seam. It's a bit harder to gauge position relative to Olson's topo now that the tree has fallen over. But thanks for taking the photo