gyselinck

Bored as hell, walking the streets of Cle Elum, I look up to see some snow covered cliffs. I've seen them in summer and it looks like a choss heap, but it apperead to have some intresting looking gullys and stuff, maybe some mixed type climbing. Anyone know what I'm talking about, anyone done anything on that hill?, does it have a name? I think you can see it from the highway. Unless I have my directions messed up, it's to the S. Just some thoughts floatin' around in my head, thats all.

My senses tell me that it snowed over a foot. No I didn't go wallow up at Snoqualmie Pass.

Who? When? Where? said I was doing what? I'm glad others are planning my trips for me. Wanna carry my pack too?

holy crap thats cool looking! if it didnt snow so freaking much this weekend, i would definatly go there.

I did pick it up, before I chucked it back into the tree well. I didn't notice no head. But I had been awake for 20 something hours at the time (nothing like the dudes on big 4 ), maybe I was hallucinating. It was a nice helmet, however.

I really do climb 5.11, but only when Im naked. With the exception of the boots and crampons on my feet, mittens on my hands, and blindfold around covering my eyes.

You might also consider asking, "Whats your biggest dyno?"

Not that it matters, but this conversation makes me feel like a badass, so I just wanted to share it with you all : Craig says: I don't climb 5.11 Casewag says: however Casewag says: i have seen you climb 5.11 Casewag says: first try Casewag says: so go fuck yourself Casewag says: i gotta go Casewag says: later I really don't climb 5.11, but some people seem to think I do. But, I thought it was funny that I had this conversation in the first place, arguing about the grade I climb. And, what was even more funny is that this man was so convinced. Makes me feel good about myself to get such compliments.

You moving to Phoneix!

Iv'e said this before and I will say it again. The West Ridge of Mount Stuart just sucks! Nothing good about it at all, except that your climbing on Stuart. I dont know what the apeal to this climb is? Why does everyone like it so much?

Did he drop a ski helmet too? I found one but my pack was so damn heavy already, so I just left it in the tree well where I saw it.

Do you guys think it will be climbable into the weekend based on what you saw? I only have time for a quick day shot next weekend and was givin' it some thought.

Glad to see your gettin' out. Nice pictures Matt, beautiful area.

We did two raps below the headwall of the glacier, which could easily be downclimbed. We left one picket here equiped with a sewn runner and biner, then we did one more rap off a v-thread leaving another sewn runner and biner. One ascending the ice cliff now might say why the heck would anyone rap here....My answer, I was so freaking tired I didn't care anymore and it was just easier, faster, and much less stressful.

I had to climb out stemming the walls, using both tools. The wierd thing was is that I thought we were off of the glacier, out of crevase danger thus the no ropes. When I fell it wasen't scarry, it happend so fast I didn't even have time to react. But after that, when we were descending more, everytime my foot even postholed in deep powder my heart would jump. Here is a picture showing my tracks leading to the hole where I just punched through: Here is a picture looking down into the hole. I hit the first ledge in the left of the pic, 10 feet to my right and I would have gone into the black pit:

Climb: Mount Stuart-NE Face (Attempt) Date of Climb: 2/18/2006 Trip Report: Met Suckbm at Starbucks in Seattle in my brand new Subaru. I showed up an hour late. We were both way hung-over from the night before. I then bought my capachino grande and we drove to mountaineers creek. I then realized I forgot my crampons so we drove back to L-worth so I could buy new ones. We wanted to save time, since we were already late, so we spent 2 hours trying to drive up the mountaineers creek road in our new Subaru, even though it only takes an hour and a half to walk. We hiked to the base of Stuart. That night we got drunk off our asses in the tent. Then we slept in past our alarm clocks. Actually, none of that shit happened...But we did try to climb the NE Face of Stuart. Once again, for the second year in a row, I found myself punching tracks into Stuart. We put in a fine trail all the way up the Ice Cliff so now all you Seattleites can drive to L-worth in your Subaru's and do your car-car winter solo's of the complete N. Ridge. Good luck. The NE Face on Mount Stuart has been a long term project of mine. It's been rarely climbed, probably for good reason. Most of the time due to conditions. About all I have to say is its FUKIN' hard. Ascended the right hand side of the Ice Cliff, way chill. We tried to climb the left hand side of the face. Got three pitches up before bailing. The ice pitches we were climbing were about a half inch thick, interspersed with hard rock moves. I would estimate WI 4, 5.9, X. We left behind 3 pickets, 5 runners, a nut, and a bunch of biners, so have fun booty freaks. On descent I took a unroped fall into a crevasse, fell approx. 15 feet. We had already raped off the headwall of the glacier and were down climbing steep snow. All the sudden my stomach dropped out from under me and I found myself barrel rolling into blackness. If I had happened to be 10 feet to my right I would have taken a 30+ foot vertical fall straight to the bottom. I consider this to be my closets call to serious injury in the mountains. Thus if your following our beaten track up the ice cliff, I advise you to be careful. If anyone has some beta about a time when you did the face, I would love to hear it. Pictures to follow: Squeeze in his supposed "2 man" tent, trying to warm the stove to get water to boil. The high temp was 14 degrees during the day, in the sun, not sure what it droped down to in the night. Erik on the Ice Cliff Glacier. Where he is, is about where I fell into the crevase: Working around the cracks: Suckbm leading pitch 1: Looking down from pitch 2: Suckbm climbing to the belay on thin ice: Erik leading pitch 3, preping to do a fuckin' hard rock move. I still can't believe he pulled through that shit: Gear Notes: Shoulda had a ladder. Approach Notes: Good trail now!

I am in the market for a new helmet. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about black diamond's half dome. I've heard only bad things about it. The reason I was looking at that vs. the others is that I get good deals through my job with bd.

I haven't been climbing ice for a long time, so I am still learning how all this stuff works. I noticed a lot of my screws are getting little divits in the threads from banging around. I can't immagine it being good for them. But is it just consdered normal wear?, does it effect em much in the long run?, should I be more carefull or is it unavoidable? Thanks.

We were the party ahead of you guys. Hey, did you happen to find a screw, we summited and discovered we were missing one.

NF was still in good condition on Sunday. (2/12)

Got our asses handed to us trying to hike up to Temple Ridge (Friday (2/10/06)). Hiked for 2 hours and 40 min up the Snow Creek trail until post holing up to the waste began. Turned around and came home. Hope some of you got some cool shit done, we got nothin'.

This weekened I'm going to make some cash, but I hope next weekend!

Rock, paper, scissors? PS. you still owe me pics from burgundy?

Snow forcast over the Stuart Range. Week of January 30th... Tuesday - 11 inches Wednesday - 9 inches Thursday - 5 inches Should we or ?

I can't tell if your serious or not, but I guarntee its not an FA. I suspect it has a name similar in character to Mensturating Whale Snatch or Jerk and Slurp, but I'll have to look it up another day, if you still care to here the name, that is.