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astrov

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Posts posted by astrov


  1. The Nisqually was a little sketchy right before the Fan, but nothing compared to the Upper Kautz. That's the dangerous part of the route IMHO at the moment, and you're still facing it if you go up Van Trump approach. Sounds like we should have turned back onto the Nisqually at the top of Wapowtey Cleaver, but that didn't look passable.


  2. went yesterday, 7/19.

     

    Ice was okay but not amazing; some dinner plates broke off and our crampons felt more secure than our tools.

     

    No boot track above second pitch. We traversed the upper kautz glacier back and forth several times trying to negotiate crevasses. (We ascended up the face to Point Success rather than cross over the Nisqually.) The crevasses are basically impassable - not safely passable. We were up there moderately late (say 10 a.m.) there was water running under the heavily sun cupped and penitented face. I punched a foot through in one spot. Ice tinkled into the creek in the glacier below. it was sketchy - we may have gone the wrong way, though. I've done a little research and it looks like the preferred route is to cross onto the Nisqually at the top of the Wapowty Cleaver. We did pop our heads over there, but that looks way too broken up to be a safe option either.

     

    Anybody hear about the group of five who did the route yesterday? They were about 1200' below us. I didn't see them come down DC, either.

     

    Two climbing rangers were climbing the route yesterday so they will probably have some impressions to share.

     

    Napped at 13.9K', Ben :-)


  3. ARGH! why? just started two days ago. Have I been dipping too much into cc.com? I've been accessing the site for years at work and consider it a lifeline beyond the inanity and degradation of the office! Now corporate firewall considers it a "security risk". did something change?


  4. Solid work!

     

    Given all the melting and evidence of rockfall, the route looks about as craggy as the lady I just saw at the convenience store buying four 16 ounce cans of Steel Reserve and a pack of Eagle 120s.

     

    And I say that not to diminish your achievement at all: only to reinforce that it's pretty rad! :tup:


  5. Tacoma: Less property crime, less violent crime, more affordable housing, less traffic, more diversity, lower taxes, fewer riots (none, in fact), less effete, and, of course, a mountain namesake.

     

    Seattle: The Seahawks. And that new tunnel.

     

     

    :tup: Tacoma: it's a dusty old gem on the South Puget Sound. 253 for life!

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