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Everything posted by astrov

  1. Non-scientific, but I took a new set of G14 crampons out on Kautz Route on Tahoma a few weeks ago, and was surpised by how much dulling occurred even during the brief DC descent on ground pumice. This was with barely any walking on the DC itself - the crampons were left on just long enough to cross off the snow and take 'em off.
  2. Death of a machine

    cascadeclimbers.com print edition?
  3. Kautz conditions/Descent plans

    The Nisqually was a little sketchy right before the Fan, but nothing compared to the Upper Kautz. That's the dangerous part of the route IMHO at the moment, and you're still facing it if you go up Van Trump approach. Sounds like we should have turned back onto the Nisqually at the top of Wapowtey Cleaver, but that didn't look passable.
  4. pretty cool! This will be fun to play around with.
  5. Anybody down for ice cragging on either White River Glacier or Eliot this Sunday, 7/26/2015? (I could also go another weekend.)
  6. yellow bottle of oxygen?
  7. Kautz conditions/Descent plans

    went yesterday, 7/19. Ice was okay but not amazing; some dinner plates broke off and our crampons felt more secure than our tools. No boot track above second pitch. We traversed the upper kautz glacier back and forth several times trying to negotiate crevasses. (We ascended up the face to Point Success rather than cross over the Nisqually.) The crevasses are basically impassable - not safely passable. We were up there moderately late (say 10 a.m.) there was water running under the heavily sun cupped and penitented face. I punched a foot through in one spot. Ice tinkled into the creek in the glacier below. it was sketchy - we may have gone the wrong way, though. I've done a little research and it looks like the preferred route is to cross onto the Nisqually at the top of the Wapowty Cleaver. We did pop our heads over there, but that looks way too broken up to be a safe option either. Anybody hear about the group of five who did the route yesterday? They were about 1200' below us. I didn't see them come down DC, either. Two climbing rangers were climbing the route yesterday so they will probably have some impressions to share. Napped at 13.9K', Ben :-)
  8. did you check your private messages?
  9. New Feathered Friends Hooded Helios $250!

    he did mention the size. The size is wrong.
  10. shipping from where? Do you still have the G12s? thanks,
  11. Great! I've been curious about this route for the last year, and after reading your report, I really want to try it. Obligatory "any ice" question: Any ice in the Sickle? Supposedly the route features icefalls.
  12. corporate firewall blocking cc.com

    ARGH! why? just started two days ago. Have I been dipping too much into cc.com? I've been accessing the site for years at work and consider it a lifeline beyond the inanity and degradation of the office! Now corporate firewall considers it a "security risk". did something change?
  13. Sad indeed. the rumor is that Mr. Bufis unroped and separated from his team to return to fetch his stove. I can't vouch for that, and in any event condolences for all involved.
  14. Solid work! Given all the melting and evidence of rockfall, the route looks about as craggy as the lady I just saw at the convenience store buying four 16 ounce cans of Steel Reserve and a pack of Eagle 120s. And I say that not to diminish your achievement at all: only to reinforce that it's pretty rad!
  15. Tips for Improving Speed?

    Ohiolcer: What training to do you do currently?
  16. FS: climbing books

    I'll take Mt. Rainier Climbing Guide and Glacier Travel / Crevasse Rescue for $8, Alex. Also in Portland. BTW Ed Viesturs' book on K2 is enjoyable; I already have a copy though!.
  17. Close to Portlandish 5-23 weekend

    PM sent
  18. Free for local pickup in Portland: 2014, 1998-2009 (inclusive),1994 and 1996. Must take all. Shipping option: $5 + actual media mail costs.
  19. Keeping or returning my gri gri?

    there is an article on this site by Blake Herrington on the uses for a Grigri in the alpine. http://cascadeclimbers.com/alpine-belay-by-blake-herrington/
  20. Drones

    do not want
  21. [TR] Mt Hood - Yocum Ridge 3/7/2015

    Insane; nice work! I was the guy who bivied at the saddle near you and skied down yesterday morning. That was challenging skiing; I looked like that too I'm sure! Thanks for spreading stoke.
  22. Solid work Water! Are your photos on Google Drive?
  23. Cascade Volcanoes in One Season

    How many volcanoes are in the Cascades?
  24. Tacoma vs Seattle

    Tacoma: it's a dusty old gem on the South Puget Sound. 253 for life!