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astrov

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Everything posted by astrov

  1. All dressed up and no place to go- I was planning on going up to Canmore from Jan. 2 thru the 7th. However, my anticipated partner bailed on me due to job concerns. If you want to make the drive up with me and partner up, that would be cool- they still have room for us in the Clubhouse in Canmore. I could leave before the 7th, too. It's only a 12 hour drive ... In the alternative, I'm free for local or other ice climbing from the 1- 8th. I could go to Banks Lake, or where-ever. So pm me. I have gear and car.
  2. Jamin, "you're gonna be the first man to climb the Murderhorn!"
  3. Here's a suggestion, implied: http://www.nsf.gov/discoveries/disc_summ.jsp?cntn_id=100201&org=NSF
  4. hey, I'll be out of school and otherwise just bumming around in Seattle area for this period of time. I would like to climb some ice. I am not experienced enough to be leading any hard stuff (WI 4/5) but I can certainly follow you up it ... I am willing to go to Banks lake, BC, maybe even alberta ... I have a car, ice gear, and snowshoes (2 pair). PM me - Ian
  5. actually, hmm ... I might save them to rap off. Convince me.
  6. Is the Valley of the Silent Men the East or West fork of Lena Creek? Either way, that sucks, because that's some beautiful forest in there ...
  7. I can go on Friday as well ... I am in portland. No class friday.
  8. I am interested in beacon rock on friday (tomorrow). I have a car and gear. I will send a pm.
  9. check out condom fishing in Wapato Lake
  10. just give me a break from studying ... we have many local options. I am flexible on time of day, too. I can belay you on whatever you want to lead (and clean) but I'm probably not climbing over 5.10 I have car and gear, sport and trad.
  11. okay, let's just keep it local if anyone wants - broughton bluff, chimney rocks ... lots of options according to http://ors.alpineclub.org/AAC/crags_gds.html I am new to climbing around portland but not new to climbing ...
  12. What does someone say to heading out from Pdx to Smith, leaving tonight at about 7 (when my last class ends), crashing at the free camp ground, climbing in the morning / aft., and coming back before night fall? I am interested in sport up to 5.10 and easier trad. alternatively a trip to beacon rock might be in order, which would come with the benefit that we could leave Friday morning. c'mon, let's climb ... pm me.
  13. yes, the third-to-last photo is marvelous ... looks like a beautiful trip, it's on the top of my list, but probably somewhat above my ability ...
  14. O.k., everybody. I am a law student at lewis and clark law school in Portland. I am working with the NEDC, our in house non-profit, (see NEDC.org), on submitting commentary to the Park Service et al. regarding this Olympic National Park plan. Filing commentary helps us establish standing if we decide to litigate later on an issue on which we believe the park service is violating the law. Additionally, commentary has stopped some illegal actions altogether via preliminary injunctions, for example, the logging of the Bull Run watershed. So, if you have concerns about this plan, or think it violates laws, or have some other specific critique, please share it with me and we might be able to work it into our submission. An attorney (or several) will review the commentary for relevance and accuracy before it is submitted. We are all doing this on a strictly volunteer basis, so it's all for the benefit of the park. If anyone decides to include your suggestion I can give you proper credit and cc: you the commentary when they decide to send it off. If you have spare time and enjoy researching, and a love of ONP (like I do), this is a great way for you to be heard and to influence the park in a positive way. thanks. Ian
  15. O.k. everybody. I am a law student at lewis and clark law school in Portland. I am working with the NEDC, our in house non-profit, (see NEDC.org), on submitting commentary to the Park Service et al. regarding this Olympic National Park plan. Filing commentary helps us establish standing if we decide to litigate later on an issue on which we believe the park service is violating the law. Additionally, commentary has stopped some illegal actions altogether via preliminary injunctions, for example, the logging of the Bull Run watershed. So, if you have concerns about this plan, or think it violates laws, or have some other specific critique, please share it with me and we might be able to work it into our submission. An attorney (or several) will review the commentary for relevance and accuracy before it is submitted. We are all doing this on a strictly volunteer basis, so it's all for the benefit of the park. If anyone decides to include your suggestion I can give you proper credit and cc: you the commentary when they decide to send it off. If you have spare time and enjoy researching, and a love of ONP (like I do), this is a great way for you to be heard and to influence the park in a positive way. thanks. Ian
  16. don't quit your gay job
  17. let's see ... give a cc'er some beer, or pay mountain madness 325 per day ... hey, while you're trying to save money, I can draft some legal documents for you. Maybe a last will and testament?
  18. thanks for re-posting, John ... I later learned how to access pics by user search in the gallery. We did go up last weekend- things looked very promising, although it was cloudy. (Killer approach, by the way.) While leading the second pitch, I knocked some serious choss down. Shouting confirmed that sjwages (belayer) was okay, so I continued up, comfortable with the fact that the olympics are a chossy range. I was pretty run out on easy terrain when I reached a somewhat off-width crack with a fragile looking alpine tree/shrub which I slung. I struggled up into the crack where I was able to stand comfortably, and placed a nut, finally. Then belayer shouted up- "Ian, we had better retreat ... the rope's cut in half!" There were only 10-15 (?) feet left of rope before he would have to pass the cut-through section through. Apparently one of the choss bombs I had sent hurtling down the mountain cut the rope in half. So I took the nut out and downclimbed. We backed off the two-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch ... which explains why there is a nice, bright new yellow sling, two rap rings, and one biner there. (Booty call!) We probably could have simul-climbed but we weren't sure exactly what we were in for, and didn't really discuss our options at the belay station before bailing on the rope with the cut section tied-out. Maybe we'll try again this weekend, I don't know. In any event, thanks for the re-post of the photos. Also looking forward to TR of Destroyer and Enigma.
  19. not sure if you're refering to us- but we were on that route last weekend and didn't see any smoke ... if you know where the cliffs are on a topo, look here and compare: (website with info. about fire) http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic/conditions/
  20. Thanks for reviving this thread, there has been some great discussion here. In parituclar I like what Norman_Clyde said (reminds me of that story in "The Pugilist at Rest" by Thom Jones featuring a badass ER doctor) and what stonehead offered about Promethean urges. I was writing in a journal at the time you all were discussing this online- at the time I didn't have internet access. So here is what I had been thinking. Kind of a variation on the Promethean theme. Discuss. Attach additional pages if necessary. (Don't worry, it's not about Lord Jim). 11-24-05 An air of heroism is necessary if one is to see oneself as a celestial being, fixed bright above the benighted, quotidian, pathetically egalitarian crowd. As Josef Conrad observes near the beginning of "Lord Jim", it is easy to bow to the law's common demands, but it is only the crucible of catastrophe that can expose weakness in a man hitherto unsuspected. In these grave, momentous climaxes, no legal system can direct him. He can rely only on the semblance of self-possession and mastery which he may have accumulated in fits and starts through life if his cool head is to prevail. Some seek these mettle-testing trials, but making any preparation for them seems to mute the brightness of the triumphant ring that follows when these challenges are invariably dispensed of forthwith. This is why mountaineering literature seems to be an exercise in authorial ambiguity; with all presented facts militating towards impressing the reader of the author's qualification, modesty, expertise, and general providence in selecting Mt. Death as his next summit, and at the same time strongly suggesting the insanity, brutality and impossibility of the task before him, given his present bad luck, illness, equipment shortage, etc. The goal of adventure (broad generalization) is that glorious catharsis that comes from cheating death, from ascending above the mere equalizing prohibitions of societal law, and instead tempting the laws of Fate itself; no, not just tempting, but letting them squeeze your family jewels in a vise, since at this high level of engagement, the prohibitions of Fate take on a personalized, specific nature, like "Don't climb Mt. Death given that you haven't had a sip of water in nearly two days, and have dropped one of your ice axes, have no oxygen, and a storm is setting in, and night is falling, &c." Furthermore, the flirtation with death becomes so intimate that the actual point at which probability cannot be thwarted any longer becomes immediate and tangible. A mountaineer can see that death awaits only a few steps higher, and can see the spot in the snow quite clearly where, if he were to dare, there would be no more endeavor. Mountaineers have turned back a hundred feet from the summit (and less!) after spending years approaching the place. The thrilling specificity of the prohibition is the enticement. If you, mountain climber, proceed any farther on this particular climb, on this day, given the conditions around you, you will die. This is not a general moral precept applicable to the slothful, indulgent many!
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