neswstar

Climb: - Prussic - West Ridge (3 girls and a virgin) Date of Climb: 8/18/2005 Trip Report: We took a virgin up with us 3 girls last weekend to climb his first alpine rock. And what a trip it was. Drove up and hiked it in Friday to the north end of Snow lakes. The girlfriends got there early and found us the perfect spot. The water felt great after the hot hike in. The bugs kept way below their reported level. Up early on Saturday, hitting trail at 5:30 to beat the heat. We took the short cut ( non-existing climbers trail) between the lakes to the saddle – fun scramble. Squeezed through the tightest of cracks and came out to see a family of 4 goats waiting for us to pee. Took a breather at the saddle, found balance rock and scrambled up to the base. So far the boy is hanging tough playing gentleman carrying rack and rope. (and winning his way into our hearts, or at least on the climb) We let the girlfriends go first, and sandwiched the boy by getting him to lead first. All went well, on pitch 3 he took care of the friction slab easily (I’m talking rock here) (and what is with all the protection left behind? ) and then he muscled through pitch 5 the lie back figure jam without seeing Elvis. (although I had a few visions of my own). (Girlfriend quote of the day - “5.6 my ass”) Gave me the butt squeezing 5.4 chimney (damn that was tight). I think the one on the right might be a bit easier. The girlfriends were waiting at the top with high fives, hugs and sandwiches. Met a couple of other friends on top and got some great photos. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/489150-thegirlfriends2.JPG The double rapped showed signs of getting stuck so we switched to single raps – no major issues finding slings, although next time would keep further left to avoid all the traversing we did. Took the long road back to base camp winding though all the lake country and stopping to soak and view the waterfalls. Hard not to want to breath it all in. Great dinner, early breakfast, brunch at Crystals in Leavenworth, fruit stand in Yakima and home by 5. GREAT WEEKEND ! Gear Notes: Both parties took way more gear than needed. There is lots of natural protection so it was nice to have 2 cordelettes and 4 or so BAS (big ass slings). Most of the gear used was mid size nuts and cams (pinkie of course). We brought and used a #3 BD cam but could have easily done with out. Found 2 stuck pieces on the friction slab (backed both up) along with the old piton. Rope drag was everything they said it would be.

It was strange seeing them hover so low and so often - and two, not just one. Quite the day though - what a beautiful view.

Has anyone been up Cruiser recently. I am assuming ice axe and crampons are still needed. what about pickets? Having never been there - is there a preferred place to camp around flap jack lake? Any other words of advice?

ditto - thank you for posting this notice - and thank you and any others for all the hard work!

We were over on the top of Broken top Saturday and watched 2 helicopers circling south sister just north of green lakes. any one know what that might have been about?

The pictures are awesome - thank you for sharing. Totally off subject - But what I'd like to know is - what do the crevasses look like on the Elliot. By the photo it looks like it might be time to go play with the tools. any thoughts?

We drove by Monday around 10 am - folks were skiing - plenty of tracks. Indeed road and parking were wide open.

Thank you all for your suggesssions. We ended up at lovers leap. Had a great weekend: free camping, easy approach, numerous climbs at my level, good wine....... Need to get back down and ecplore some more. thanks again

thinking about Reno/ Sacramento /Northern CA, over July 4th. Would like to do some lower level rock up to 5.7 maybe easy 5.8. Perfer multipitch alpine, not with a big VEG approach, but maybe a bivy. Any suggessions on what and where to look?? thanks

http://portland.craigslist.org/etc/77360699.html

Sign up NOW! MAZAMAS, Portland’s oldest and largest mountaineering and climbing organization, now offers Mountaineering First Aid (MFA). The next course begins Monday, January 31, 2005 (6:30-9:30 p.m.) at 909 NW 19th Avenue, Portland, OR. The Mazamas MFA course is a hands-on 30-hour Wilderness First Aid course taught by certified instructors consisting of 5 evening lecture-skill sessions and a weekend practicum at the Mazamas Lodge on Mount Hood. You will learn how to apply first aid skills in the wilderness setting, perform advanced patient assessment, improvise equipment and cope with wilderness-specific conditions as well as how to assess the situation with a calm and knowledgeable approach. This valuable course is offered to Mazamas members for $110 and $160 for non-members. Applications are accepted in the order received with priority given to Mazamas members. Contact the Mazamas office at (503) 227-2345 or www.mazamas.org for more information on membership or visit: http://mazamas.org/education/firstaid_info.php to sign up now. this is in or around 909 NW 19th, Portland

We were an anchor over from the accident on the first climb of the day. There were two routes going off the same set of bolts. And a whole clusterfuck of people hanging around and setting up. The bolts were a distance from the lip ( which may explain why she was not anchored with her safty and test first). Maybe she thought her friends had her covered - maybe she saw the other team's set up and thought it was hers. Weed or no weed, coffee or no coffee - there is a lesson, it's just a very sad way for us all to learn. I understand she has gone from crictal to dangerous - good wishes and thoughts for her recovery.

I'm testing out Energizier E2 Lithium batteries. Wondering if anyone has any experience with them at elevation - in headlamp, GPS, digital or beacon? How is the staying power? Does altitude make a difference? These guys are suppose to last 7 times longer (best on market) and be great preformers in high tech gear - anybody out there put this to the test already? Hope they work - it would be nice not to have to change them out as often - and save some $$ - better for the environment too.

check out Ouray the week of Chicks with Picks - they put on an awsome Friday night auction ( w/beer).

At mazama clubrooms NW Portland http://www.mazamas.org/activities/gear_sale.php

Don't suppose he's coming to Portland?

I love mine - But I've had to converted to eating out of plastic bags. It boils water super fast until the canister starts getting low. I kept thinking I was out of fuel - but it lasted another 2 days - just boiled slower. I like this enough I wish I had three - one for the pack, one for the back of the car, and one for the kitchen counter.

My old Nissan truck needs to much work to justify keeping. I loved the bed to sleep in and the 4wd, tough tires and nice chains. ( okay so maybe some people thought I was dike when my hair was really short - but so what). I now need to replace - but I'm on a budget - can not afford new ( need under $10k). Need good gas milage cause the mountains are too far away. Would also like to sleep in the back and have something that can handle ski season road conditions. Thinking about a Honda CR-V or a RAV4 but have not seen them yet. Any words of advice or suggesions?

Tieton - three rattlers in one day ( and that's not considered unsual). That's Enough to make me think twice about summer climbing there.

Any sneak previews to "wet" our appetite?

I love pinkie !!!

I need a reason to sharpen the crampons. Just wondering if there is any ice to play on. Has anyone been on the Nisqually recently?

I had a great time this weekend. Thank you Climb Max and all the other vendors, volunteers and sponsors that made it happen. Hope it will happen again next year - maybe this time with more marketing.

having a wife sounds kind of nice - not the testicles though - I bet they just get in the way. Is a sea bass something I could borrow?

One last thing - thank you everyone for the beta - it helped!