neswstar

Okay - so anyone been up there recently? What's terrain like from the B parking lot to base? I'm new at the ski sled thing - should I be okay? Any other recommendations for something else steep to play on if we went for a few days? Anyone tell me what Prody is like in the winter? Thanks for the help....

Climb: Hood-Leuthold Date of Climb: 6/10/2006 Trip Report: Excellent night for a climb. Down right magical. The moon was so bright no need for head lamps. 6 of us headed out at midnight making great time to illumination saddle. Watched the moon turn deep orange before setting. Dropped onto the Reid - it was still dark. Dropped below the craveasses so we did not have to trust the bridges. Seems we were the only ones on that side - saw no one until the summit. The shute was a bit icy - some mixed moves (ha, ha) but the ice was not good enough to hold a screw. Used pickets - but I think mostly so our fearless leader could dump some weight. Very minimal rock/ice fall. Due I think, to perfect timing. Watched the mounatian shadow shrink as we made our way to the Queens chair. The rest was a slow cruise with nice firm snow and easy steps over the final travere. We watched one of the guide services drop down the old shute - so we decided to avoid the traffic through the gates and go the same way. It actually looked a lot easier than the cluster we witnessed around the shrund once we got down. Great day out!! Gear Notes: 6 pickets, 2 screws, mlu, 2nd tool, sun screen and lots of it, mike's chocolates Approach Notes: Nice firm snow the whole way - put our crampons on at the Silcox

So M how did it go?

It was a beautiful day and a great climb - 12 of us got up Castle. The trip up from the end of the parking lot at Narada was very easy. The slope was cold and steps were good. The group did great on the cruise up and had a good time checking out low 5th class rock - most of them for the first time. We saw lots of avy depris piles. Did not stay up for the planned Lane peak trip on Sunday. Just too warm. came home to find out they issued a special Avy warning report. Too warm to climb - Got's to be careful out there. Great trip and the beta really helped. thank you all !!

and Castle - is that doable?

Just called today - the road is open to Wicky Shelter which is roughly 6.5 miles from coldsprings, the S Side trail head. The ranger stated there are still 10 feet on the road and they do not anticpate it opening uneil 7/1/06. They have no plans to plow. Ranger station number 509-395-3400

Matt - thank you for the beta. I've only been in there a few times - never this early. I'm bring a group of new folks so I was thinking Pinnicle standard. However, I was thinking taking it from the pinnical plummer saddle would be easier. Is there a specific reason you recommend the caslte saddle instead? Also, is Castle doable this time of year? Also, do you know what the angle is there - how avy prone either might be? thank you for all the help - greatly appreciate!!

Anybody done this? How is route finding? Do you end up on the road most of the way? How much time do you think it will add to the day? Has anyone been up there recently on pinnicle, plummer, lane - or anything else? Thank you for the help!!

went up Saturday 5/6 the road is open to the lower trail head - no snow. However, Big Creek campground is not open (even though the website says it was to open 5/1). Also, be it rangers or ya ho's, ripped the signs we posted to direct friends to the next campground before night fall. So folks ended up all over the place - might want a clear back up plan. Great climb. no views or goats but still a good day out. The slide was a bit icy high up but no holes in it and it's good all the way to the bottom. - might want to bring padding or at least some old ripped pants.

I'm not one - but the ones I know and are to be respected - know their shit. Beyond "doing it", they study, read, and ask everyone they think is a bad ass - questions.

Anyone up there this past weekend? Road update? Avy conditions? Looking to head up that way next weekend - would really appreciate the beta.

I understnad there is more than one shute up the Reid - which shute did you guys take? - and on the Sandy HW - was there as much debris coming at you?

We saw you guys at the Palmer - your speed was impressive. By the time we got to the saddle - you were already on Yocum. We did Leuthod. I think the wind really helped consolidate the snow - not too much ice/snow rained on us. We were a bit surpised by the avalanche depris we crossed off of Reid headwall. guess it's been warmer than suspected up there. We roped up over the Reid and thru the shute. Proably didn't need it in the shute - more a mental aid. (didn't set pro or use the second tool but brought it all). We made it to the top of Queens by sunrise - nice to have the wind die down. Thanks for the bucket steps over the ridge!! - Maybe next time we can follow then all the way up the headwall. Okay wishful thinking. - nice TR

These must be offered for free - any takers?

http://www.mountainshop.net/

Okay I was mistaken it's step 2 that doesn't happen for me. I can open the picture but when I right click it give me a tool bar with 4 choices, none of them are "Copy Image Location". When I left click instead I also get a menu but again not with the choice I'm looking for. WTF This has been really frustrating. I want to be king - I'm sick of not knowing! BTW - there is a another picture out there of needles pass with better res.

Corvallisclimb - could you send to me as well - thank you!

Something came up and I can't go. Paided $30 for the permit and another $10 to get these specific dates - over 6 months ago. 3 nights 4 days - 2 people. Can access variety of routes including mountaineer route and east buttress. Can transfer to another party at no additional fee. Looking to be made whole - willing to take trade (if it's good). Can any body help me out?

thank you for the detailed directions. Seems I am unable to do step 4 on my computer " save image location" so I am still at a loss as to how to add photos.

okay - so how did you do that?

okay - Olyclimber even emailed me directions - but I seem to have the nontechie thing getting in my way. What I really need is someone to hold my hand. I can not, for the life of me figure this out. Yes, I have a few great photos - needles pass, the saddle, the travers. If anyone out there wants to walk me through it - please email me a phone number. For now - I'm getting back to work. thanks

Climb: Cruiser-the 5.0 route Date of Climb: 8/20/2005 Trip Report: Went to climb Cruiser as an official Mazama climb. I was neither the leader nor the assistant - just one of ten team party members. We went in from Flap jacks lakes - nice and easy, leaving at 11am in camp for dinner. Got up at dawn Saturday and made our way to Gladds Divide. Since we had no current beta about the snow in the needle we all brought crampons and axes. they were not needed. We stayed pretty huddled, up needles and still I got grazed by rock fall on my helmet and ankle. The traverse was interesting - and I guess I just did not expect that much up and down. The whole party made it to the summit (squeezing in). I put new webbing on the anchors at the top cause what was there was slung using the death triangle. For the comfort of the party, we rapped numerous pitches. We had to rap through the Needles one at a time, on a double rope and still down climb. After the third party member got sketched, we attached the third rope and made the rap long enough to clear the nasty stuff. Quite the show of rock fall from the side lines. On average it took us 15 mins a piece to do the last rap/down climb. We traversed the rest of the way to trail with no one getting hurt. We were very glad not to have any other parties on route to have to worry about. Next day we made it out with time enough for Huckleberry pancakes at Jim and Laura's - thank you. Next time - I'll go in from Mildred, or go early enough to hit snow. Great views of Olympus, Seattle and Rainier. Gear Notes: 3 ropes - and with ten of us - glad to had them all pinkie and red tri cam, Misc nuts, cams webbing, rap rings Did not need crampons or ice axe. Approach Notes: Bugs didn't bother us much, lakes were very swimable, huckberries were prime and plentifully

Okay - my very first real TR and I blew it. Sorry. There were suppose to be pictures and everything. I thought I would get to veiw before the post - but no, it just went out to the world unedited. Please forgive.

One of their employees called me this morning on a follow up order and I asked about the sign. Seems they are looking to expand their space due to increase in their mail order business and mad rock distribution. (Pagan Gear) http://www.pagangear.com/ I would hate to lose these guys - they are hands down my favorite climb store in Portland. Just wish they might do a better job of communicating ( closed for 2 weekend day nights this spring, big sale, no smith rock climb fair, big for lease sign). where is the "we're expanding" sign? BTW, great new employees, very friendly and knowledgeable. But, I'll miss Darren (Mr techno gear freak who always knows what I need to buy next - hope mad rock loves you).

Couldn't figure out why - i reach down and slipped it right out. Looks well loved - would you like it back? ( just name the pitch)