powderhound

Thank You To those who were able to attend our June 11, 2015 open house in Stevenson and help to make it such a success. The feedback we received is a great start as we work towards improving the experience for all the climbers who use and love Beacon Rock. Thank you also for respecting the seasonal closure of the south face. Because of your cooperation four healthy peregrine falcon fledglings will soon be leaving the nest site and, based on this circumstance, the south face will open on July 15th. Next Steps State Parks will be appointing a Technical Rock Climbing Committee to assist us in better meeting the needs of climbers. The role of the of the committee will be threefold: · Advise State Park staff on matters related to climbing and climbing access (i.e. trails); · Act as an information distribution point for all who climb at Beacon Rock; · Promote transparency and work to provide accurate information to climbers regarding seasonal closures, closed routes and trail work opportunities. An application form and information on the climbing committee is attached. The application is a Microsoft Word document and can be filled out electronically and emailed to randy.kline@parks.wa.gov. Responses can be provided directly on the Word document or typed into an email. The deadline for application submittal is July 31, 2015 and State Parks anticipates that the first committee meeting will occur in late September. Also attached are the results from a climbing/bouldering questionnaire that was available at the open house. South face of Beacon Rock opens on July 15 As many of you are aware, Beacon Rock is a known peregrine falcon nesting area with a seasonal climbing restriction from February 1st until mid-July. Falcon monitoring occurs during the closure period. Based on the last State Parks/Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife monitoring session held on July 2nd the last of the juvenile peregrines will soon fledge from the nest and State Parks will be opening the south face to climbing on July 15th. Any questions regarding the climbing committee or the status of the closure can be directed to Randy Kline, Park Planner, at randy.kline@parks.wa.gov or (360) 902-8632. For more information, visit our planning website at http://j.mp/BeaconRock or the park website at http://www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock. Sincerely, Randy Kline, Park Planner

anyone coming from pdx? carpool?

Could be down to hit up the molack, how long you around? Bryan Schmitz

Nice work Dougie and John btw: F fixing you TR for the haters I think it is cool you are training Kyle.

Nice.

So I use a mini track on the harness with a backup. For those of you looking for a cheap backup, consider a tibloc. I use a half shoulder length sling with a oval on the tibloc attached to the belay loop. As long as you weight your rope it slides right up with me. Probably not good on your rope if you engage but it worked when I have tested it. for escape and rap I carry a grill and and ascender, it's weight but hey you ate training anyways, super quick.

Drove to the trailhead and walked all the way to jeff park in tenniess shoes a couple weeks ago. Found the snow not as nevey as I would have liked on the north face, but should have firmed up by now. Getting around the schrund looks interesting as I don't think there was ever enough snow this year to fill it in.

Snow ballard on top is what I think is most common to get off the summit pinnacle. Good luck out there.

baller

You have a picture with the route drawn in for scale? Would love to see it.

Steve says it pretty well on the SP post: "EVERYBODY STOP WASTING TIME AND EFFORT PLACING MILD STEEL BOLTS! Stainless Steel is the only responsible option if you want to do lasting, quality bolt work. Cheapness is no real excuse here, think about it. "

This disturbs me, if you can't afford to put in proper bolts, don't do it. This seems to be borderline negligent given all the easily available information out there about proper bolts and hangers. Once they go in the climber has now way of knowing what is actually in the rock. So glad I don't climb at ozone very often, this is scary to think about. I salute your rebolting efforts and ask that whomever put those bolts in or anyone that has knowledge of other routes that have these pieces of shit in them to come forward. Bryan Schmitz

dang

Sweet! Figured that would get climbed soon

Nice work. Was just thinking about this route with all the triple accents.

Saw a couple of climbers attempt the NF yesterday as I skied in the sun below them on the spur. They were moving way to slow and made the smart decision to turn around. However, the route looks to be in great shape. No need for flotation, and could wear running shoes all the way to the tilly jane.

Shweet! Looks like nice ice.

Skied Meadows laat night. Right before nightfall I think I got a glimpse of the black spider. Looked icy.

hot damn

What he said

bump for Tyler

Today is Tyler Adams birthday. Tyler took me to stiens for the first time. Later that weekend we also climbed the twin pillars for maybe the third or fourth ascent. I always think of him when I am there. Wish he had been there last weekend to share the times. Miss you my brother

Must have been because I was trying to do it from my phone. Note4. When I transferred to the computer it worked just fine.

Trip: Stiens Pillar - SW Face Date: 2/15/2015 Trip Report: Finally got back on this rig. Ivan and I bailed from the top of the third pitch when howling snow/sleet/hail storm rolled in. Ivan and I have been climbing a good bit together with consistent success, so we went for weekend six in a row. Off bout 6am from PDX, it was nothing but smiles for the next two days. We choose wisely, not another climber all weekend! Glad we didn't brave the Smith crowds, we would have not fared well. The weekend went off without a hitch. Heck we even got a personal escort out to the trailhead by the crook county sheriff saturday night after summiting the sw face. Good ole boy Geoff was sure happy the sheriff was packing when he was told about the wolfs and cougars. Did some cragging sunday out there and drove back to our ladies. Getting started on the first pitch. Base of the money part! If this pitch were at smith it would get climbed as much as that stupid karate crack. Right up there with some of the 5 Star 5.10 finger cracks out at Trout Creek. Clipping nice bolts and getting ready for the heady part. So this pitch was rebolted, but also retrobolted. The retrobolts have been pulled. There is a 25 foot section that has some C2+ gear. Geoff taking us up through the third pitch. Summit Sunset First pitch of Money, Sexy, Whiskey or is it Sexy Whiskey Money? We did a nice community service and let loose the tombstone on the second pitch. Top Out! Enjoying the sun! A note about the SW Face: This is the best multipitch free climb to a significant tower summit in Oregon that I have done (not saying much). However, I put this right up there with climbing the Honeymoon Chimney in the Castle Valley, my all time fav tower route. This route deserves to see more traffic. Gear Notes: Double to #1 Camelot. Single 2&3. Extra red and gray alien. Small wires for the 2nd pitch. Screamers are nice to have at a couple pieces.

Tensleep, WY City of Rocks, ID