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jmace

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Posts posted by jmace

  1. I climb with a fellow who I am sure is high up there in the OCD department. His placements are perfect, the biners are always just right, I never have to re-rack or coil the rope,the gear is always brand new, nuts are delicately placed never requiring a nut tool or bending the wires, and he always drives as my car is too messy.

     

    I find it quite amusing, and if I could muster the patience to clean, dry, protect and place my approach shoes back in the box I bought them from...I bet my gear would be just as awesome. But I keep em the back of the truck hahaha

     

     

  2. Jake, its all good. There are even outfits that will ship your suitcases from wherever you take off to wherever you finish...so no need to do a loop. Go from one end to the other...

     

    Personally I loved the Brenta Dolomites, little less busy very dramatic. No need for cars either, but the schedule changes in September so sometimes things are a little less frequent.

     

    MVS is the dude for that stuff, but after 4 multi week/month trips I have some experience as well.

     

    Start your research and post your questions here, I will add this to my watched thread.

     

    The dolomites are made for what you are after, and there is no reason why you couldnt have private rooms for your entire trip.

     

    Cheers

  3. 1) No one really makes vacations to Lillooet for ice anymore, its more like the closest place to get the fix. Back in the day we would spend xmas and every weekend hunting for ice, there was even an ice fest....now its just too warm.

     

    2) It was +13c yesterday, it +10 now...the forecast for the week is for well above 0c

     

    http://weather.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-28_metric_e.html

     

    3) The long range forecast is for more mild weather and rising freezing levels, which seems to be the theme for this winter

     

    4) This is the 4th winter in a row where I have had to go to the Rockies

     

    Otherwise your chances for ice are Marble, Rambles and maybe Manning Park...but thats about it, hope for a freeze but here we are mid jan...we got about a month left of the season and nothing has formed...unlikely

     

    Otherwise dust off the rock shoes, was superb friction weekend prior and this weekend and next week look great for the bluffs.

     

    Or do what we all do, make the drive to the rockies

  4. Ground water....hasnt rained since June...

     

    Alpine this weekend....tough around these parts, forecast for 1500m is into the double digits (celsius)

     

    Before G pipes in with his radiational cooling....thats about to be shut down as well

     

    goes_wcan_1070_100.jpg

     

    To climb in November you need an arctic outbreak and all we got was a little breeze

     

     

  5. Them republicans aint the president or interfering with my life. So, basically, no, I wasn't interested.

     

    In the same skit you posted he throws down the rule book for what has to be in a car for it to be legal for you to drive. This is the same thing.

     

    I am quite amazed at the reluctance of a significant portion of your country that doesnt want to join the rest of the civilized world with respect to health care.

     

    Almost as interesting as watching Rob Ford

  6. You werent interested in posting the rest of the video where he outlines the lies and deceit the republicans have been doling out for decades? They are so far above and beyond what Obama said that its not even close for comparison.

     

    Why dont you post it because my Canadian one wont show up here.

     

     

  7. fuck, what a life!

     

    Ya but its over, he is moving on at a leisurely pace now...aka retirement, I think now you take up scuba diving and other low impact sports, which means surrounded by fat texans an old people.

     

    I think you can catch this disease by buying a minivan, so in that sense dont do it!!

     

    I think the idea with a tick list is to have it keep growing, shit I would have stopped having sex along time ago if it didnt :blush:

     

    Anyways, sorry to hear your career is over, looks like it was a good summer

  8. I climbed J Crack last summer, then walked over to Nursery Pass, along the ridge from Grainger and bivied there for a night to climb Clarke, but the weather moved in so we walked back to truck down Nursery Pass.

     

    Nursey Pass trail is no longer, but the Grainger trail is good. You just walk along the statlu lake trail, across the newly built bridge then instead of going to the lake you go right on good roads. Personally, I thought it was in good condition. The route itself was solid and clean and we walked down the South ridge back to camp.

     

    I think its a worthy weekender, but I would bivy below the ramp, its a bit of a thrash to get up to the snow with full packs, plus there is running water.

     

    Good on ya for getting out, next time for sure :)

     

    7746549842_36c285a93c_b.jpg

  9. In Thailand many of the routes share 4 or 5 bolts at the start and the locals consider it totally fair game to wait till you're 3 or more bolts past the split and then climb up and unclip your rope / draws and clip their rope in.

     

    Seems fair, how many bolts do you need anyways, as for Europe...all I have ever seen was efficient sharing of routes, which some folks in NA could learn, as Bob mentioned. Whats surprising is that they didnt climb through, must be pretty chill folks to just sit and wait.

  10. New area above Lumberland - a few weekends ago I ran into a Squamish local who goes by the name 'heavy' and he mentioned some new kid-friendly routes have been cleaned here. Anyone know of this crag and where I could get a topo for it?

     

    Bolted to a tree at lumberland, if I walk by this weekend I will snap a shot for you. otherwise just PM hevy on squamishclimbing.com

     

    I saw the topo on the tree at the far right of the crag up the trail a bit, its obvious.

     

    Respiration Rock - where can I get a topo for this?

     

    Not sure, but you wont need one, short easy routes you can walk up and set a TR, like really short. Some easy ones at Funarama as well.

     

    Whatever happened to the supposed kids area between Penny Lane and Neat and Cool that never seemed to materialize?

     

    Yup its there, maybe a topo at the visitor sign right next to it, not sure though.

     

    otherwise just PM hevy on squamishclimbing.com

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