corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Oh and as was pointed out by Mr. Markett in the other thread, it appears that I personally fucked you Beacon climbers...
So now I would like to personally apologize for doing this. As it sounds, according to Mr. Markett I did something to make the closure permanent at Beacon, so again my apologies!!!!
:wave: 
I did it all for the birds!!!!!!!!!
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Can I gets me the free gear if I post hear?
Come on Bill gotta cheaply whore your self out a little more!!!
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I made another video of flying around and looking at some crags in the Cascades. Some of the footage I posted before but some is new. Thought some people might enjoy...
[video:youtube]K5AOb_TFez0
You can see the a nice little view of the Turkey Monster at the bottom center of the screen @ 1:27
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Jeeze looks like they where really going at it! The city of Eugene contacted some good friends of mine to do an assessment of the area. They looked at it and told them what they thought as far as a pertinent closure, but that is as far as its gotten now with them. I'll try to post an update when I hear something more.
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Pete Guagliardo follows the first pitch on the South Rabbit Ear, while Brian Gilbert & Greg Orton rack up at the base. October 2011. Photo: Chris Winter Esq.
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I finally went and climbed at Moolack with MTep. The place is really very cool, but the routes get kinda dirty. A short 5 minute uphill stroll brings one to the base. The rock is super solid and the cracks protect really well. Surely different the most of the cascade crags in Oregon.
Mainly I'm posting this in hopes it will encourage others to go and check the place out and climb and keep the routes nice and clean. With a little more traffic this place would be a gem. If you like crack climbing then make this place a must visit!
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Hey Plaidman,
I flew over the Coethedral area today, the snow level was lookin pretty low so I'd bet you'll be able to drive all the way there. But don't hold me to it since I didn't know the exact roads to look at n stuff. Have fun! I can post a video of flying around there but not sure it will be too much help.
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Yes. That is Goose Egg. I should know, we climbed it on Tues and camped behind it for 5 days.
So did you camp at the CG on the side of the airstrip in the picture? I saw your pictures on FB which was kinda what got me thinking then I put it all together. So what would the access be like walking from the airstrip in the photo? Obviously looks like Goose Egg would be a piece of cake to walk to but is Kloochman or any of that cragging close by? Looks cool enough I just ordered the guide book so I assume that can answer any question.
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How bout fly in ice climbing in the winter???? Strobach is right there too:)
Once I have a Super Cub or Maule on skis, I will report back!!!
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STOKE!!!!!!!!
:rawk: 
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Can any one tell me what the formation in the picture below is? Is that the Goose Egg or whatever? Never been up there but looks like a killer destination for some fly-in climbing...
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Good question! I did just have hernia surgery a couple days ago, so I'm one step closer! Hell, maybe I'll try do a wall again this Fall or something... Though kinda more enchanted with Fisher Towers stuff than The Ditch right now... keeping finger crossed antibiotics will kill disease!!!!
Now back to Ivan's partner search....
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nah tyler, haven't even really scraped the surface, i feel - yet to do a real el cap route, and haven't touch half dome - your other ideas are cool of course, but still boil down to finding a partner who can rummage around for much of the time - the nice thing about the valley is the density of cool shit to do (assuming its not africa-hot), as well as having largely figured out all the logistical bullshit.
happy to wander up into canuckistan or elsewhere if'n anybody's hot for that.
wait wait wait... last time I checked the Trip was on El Cap. IMO I'd consider that way more of a route than The Nose! Someone said, once you've done one, you've basically done them all... But yeah I bet you would be a lot more prone to find a partner more willing to head up to Canada than head into an oven. Either way you go a month off will be hard to beat! Though you could still go to the East Coast with the wife and kids
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Why not try something new and not risk dying of heat exhaustion and trying to avoid the man? You done made it up half the walls in Yosemite already! Squamish has TONS of rad lookin aid routes, as does the Diamond, Buggaboos or any of those more summerish destinations, maybe Black Canyon? Mt Hooker looks rad but is like 20 miles back and probably hard! Go do Dolomite Tower on Barring!
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Lots of obscure hard sounding big walls! You moving soon or what?
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Nah the Roo aint that bad... Some really loose and rotten rock but with the help of BShmitz we replaced the bolts last year. A 20ft 5.7 solo leads into amphitheater on the north side and scramble to belay bolt in the Roo/Joey notch. Then Chimney up the the first bolt and traverse past 3 or 4 more bolts (5.7) and a crappy fixed pin to an anchor on a slab. An easy 5.3 pitch leads to the summit. I think there is a sling on top, sometimes there hasn't been tho, so if not just down climb to the anchor and rappel. 1 rope puts you back in the the alcove, 2 puts you on the ground. I think if you had a 70 you'd get all the way to the ground with one. A fun big old school tower. It's a shame that 99% of the rock on that tower is crap because if not it would be home to lots of cool routes... Oh well!
BSchmitz on belay duty in the notch.
Enjoying a nice lunch out in da Marsupials
I've aided a couple cool steep and thin cracks on the south face of the Roo, to provide access establish some hard sport routes with a friend. If your desperate for something to nail I could give ya the beta... You'd want prolly 20+ beaks though.
Beaking the Roo
Wilbur lookin for free potential.
Hmmm is this thing big enough to keep me off the deck?!?!
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Needle Rock
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From L to R: Chicken Rock, Hen Rock and Rooster Rock
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From L to R: Keith's Knob, The Bridge, Butterfly Dome & Butterfly Buttress, Bumblebee Buttress, The Bobcat and The Camels Head.
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Brian Gilbert on "The Penguin" 5.10-
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I took this picture a few years ago in the Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. What is this?
Oh hey pcg sorry for the slow response, that is the Twin Pillars in the Mill Creek Wilderness. There are some more pictures of climbing on that pile of crap on some of the previous pages in the thread.
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One more of Jeff Thomas on "Dreamboat Annie" 5.7+ on The Royal Arch with the Rabbit Ears and Panorama Point in the background.
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I just had hernia surgery and now I'm stuck on the couch getting high percocet and staring out the window at the sun... So as I sit here wishing I could be outside playing, lets see those Oregon Pinnacle pictures I now everyone has!!!
Jeff Thomas on "Dreamboat Annie" 5.7+ on The Royal Arch
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the traverse wasn't too bad. I think before this last storm it was bare rock because I was just scraping unconsolidated snow off the usual holds. only needed the ice tool a couple times. It just took a lot of focus to keep digging until a real hold presented itself. Tyler, it was last minute planned, but I kept thinking how it woulda been nice to have a flyover at the right time...
Bummer, yeah we where up soaking up sun on Rooster Rock. I flew by the next afternoon but no one was out climbing TFJ that day. Really nice job stepping it up dude, major stoke!
:tup: :tup: :tup: :tup:
beatard appreciation thread
in Columbia River Gorge
Posted
Yeah that's what I thought! I did about four years ago do Wrong Gull, SE Corner, Jill's Thrill, Young Warriors and P1 of Dodd's so I guess that is when I decided this place must be CLOSED!!!!