corvallisclimb

Holy shit! I never really read spray... but this was too good...

dunno - i like to be lost and so never seem to have a guidebook - thought that was the tombstone crack that abraxas went to at the end of p3? we rapped where there was a good anchor and everythign above was chossy easiness to the false summit, from which you look to do a rope-lenght of traversing, then some down and back up to the true top. i'll be back soon enough i bet, fucking beaconben is drawn to this thing like flies 2 shit! Sounds like you made the tombstone crack. Heard its something amazing. I've hiked up the backside and to the true summit a while ago but will be making it via Abraxas one of these days with some Germans. Couldn't find the top anchor but I have a feeling I was close. From the summit its an easy 4th class scramble off the back side down a short chimney to the west of the true summit. There is an old anchor up there to rap of the back side, but is not needed at all.

Hey Jim... Miss you a ton still!!!! Tyler

Flew by Beacon at about 2-3pm on Thursday. Looked for some plaid but not sure if we saw any... woulda snapped a pic but it was a little windy.

Its amazing how popular this place has become since its outing in the new book. Cool people are taking an interest in obscure areas, but wonder why the Zoo is seeing so much traffic? Are you guys approaching from the grasslands or from smith?

its very easy to link the first two pitches and avoid the one crappy belay stance. also depending on where your coming from its a long walk back to the base... consider going light and climbing through with all of your gear, or if your coming over misery ridge, leave some stuff near the top out, the easiest way i could describe this would be to go over misery ridge and go down the first short switchbacks then the first long one heading north down hill cuts below fairy tale tower keep heading that way and pick up the climbers trail that will put you atop the small ridge the kiss the lepers forms. stash your stuff somewhere up there then go back the way you came, pick up the misery ridge trail back down then head over to the base of the route. im lazy and i hate wasting time hiking and crap, so with that attitude theres my 2 cents

Well JR and Bill Ramsey originally went out there in like 83ish... just saying

edit: the reason you have the feet on top for the frog system is because you usually set it up with a mechanical advantage to haul up the body part... i mean you could do it but you would just be mimicking the frog just using two jugs instead of one and a gri gri, if that makes sense? the texas style(ithink?) is just a simplified version of the normal way to jug with one aider so you gotta put both feet in that.

Come kick it with me at my house. Bring your tools we can go dry tooling, maybe hit Menagerie or something if ya got a full day and its nice.

Dude, you are quite wrong and never watched it go down if you say that.

Uhhh all Hans does is jug behind Yuji or Honnold. He's just really good at cleaning. Shipoopi and Hans climbed three El Cap routes in a day in the 90's, while its cool Tommy freed two routes, three is far more impressive even if you are aiding. Just saying.

Hell ya, rock it Kurt!!! :tup:

Way to go Captian Fric!!!!!! Now move back to Oregon and come hang out with your friends!!! :tup: :brew: Solo summit solar hits!!!!

I know all that stuff was climbed by some prolific local climber, beyond that I know nothing. Either way your bound to find an adventure!

Trolling around Staender ridge is a great way to spend the day and knock off a bunch of summits with tons of cool 5.7 and under trad routes. Some good stuff up there with even better views and all aspects so its easy to chase the sun/shade. Another plus you won't be in any ones way while you take your time to figure your shit out!

ill buy the black power cam if you dont sell the whole set

I was waiting for this thread to appear! I've only replaced two bolts in Washington I think. Index Quarry - Orc Wall 2 anchor bolts atop P2 W/ Jake Hector 2007

I'm using chrome on a brand new desktop and can not get any of this to work? suggestions?

Sorry I missed free reign in placing USFS bolts! Next time! See ya soon Greg!

Alex, that's down in the Lower Gorge Cheers Tyler

Ya Ian would be cool to see breaking strengths. I'll get some hangers pull tested next time I have a chance. Would be more interesting to see the breaking strengths of the bolts though, but since the weakest ones break before pulling them out of the rock it would be impossible to test the strengths of 30 year old bolts. I find it to be amazing what looks like crap can be totally solid and what looks solid can be total crap. What ever you do don't trust old stud bolts. These are nothing but crap. How do you break a solid rod of metal? You score it! Stud bolts are just that! The past couple weeks I've been replacing some of Jim Anglin's stud bolts on some of his routes from the early 80's in the Menagerie. He placed two different kinds, I believe a zinc plated, then regular old solid steel. The ones that are zinc plated look totally new by looks but no joke I snapped %90 of them with one light blow of the hammer. The solid steel ones that looked totally rusty and like crap I could not even sheer two of them and have to come back with a chisel and hacksaw. In my personal opinion stud bolts are total crap. Cheap yes, crap yes. Even the new ones I think are crap, my friend bought a box of 50 1/2" stainless studs to use at Smith. We used them on some routes on the Smith Rock Group and Red Wall. Due to being stainless you have to use some sort of lock-tite or something to keep the nut from loosening. We didn't, and now probably 45 of those 50 all have loose nuts and I've heard one of the routes is now missing a hanger or two. Requiring me to go back up and fix all that crap since Mr. Mark D is not around to help. I've sheared the few newer 3/8" stainless studs I've removed too with out much effort. Now this is just my opinion because I'm sure there are plenty of people that will tell me RAWLs are crap. To each his own!

Yeah, holy crap way to post something interesting in the Oregon fourm! This place seems pretty dead as of late. Awesome writing and pictures! :tup:

Nice guys! Bang some pins on the perch Bryan?