Spliffy

Why use Neutragena when Ivory is 99.9% pure? Idoit...

Chill the fuck out, agro dude, you're gonna blow a gasket. Have some lard or something.

...and Alpine climbing is EASY. You don't even have to practice doing it, just hit the gym a couple days a month, then warm up on the trail. Those hand tool things with the picks will stick to anything.

I climb post-modern A3. Which is way cooler than modern A3+, or A3+, or even new-wave A3+ and what ever the fuck else you aid "climbers" call it to make it sound cooler than the shit that's already been done. You come off like a real tool, maybe I'm wrong. It doesn't take much "expertise" to deliberately put yourself in harms way for no good reason.

Making plans to climb with someone, then ditching them at the last second because something better came up is FUCKING RETARDED.

Sliff: sorry I am so dense but I wanted to clarify... you are being sarcastic right? Nope. Here’s a tip junior: Telling others what is and isn’t acceptable climbing style is ignorant and asinine of you especially when you have no clue how much knowledge or experience they have. Yes sometimes it is obvious people made a mistake. We are human… it happens. However Colin can climb J Berg in the winter because he is a better climber than you. You would fucking die… he didn’t. Instead of telling people you have never met they would die if they try to do something perhaps instead you should say “I would die if I tried this because I am not qualified to attempt this.” Are you going to write a letter to Kelly Cordes and tell him he should have brought more than a single twenty-eight pound pack for climbing the Southwest Ridge of Great Trango Tower, over four days? How'd it go on the N. Norwegian Buttress?

Sliff: sorry I am so dense but I wanted to clarify... you are being sarcastic right? Nope.

Soloing an FA of and ice route, without any ice screws, and against the advice of a VERY experienced climber is FUCKING RETARDED. Climbing Johanesburg during a snowstorm is FUCKING RETARDED. Saying that you like to climb during blizzards to gain experience for the greater ranges is FUCKING RETARDED.

So I suppose a disclaimer should have been added to his TR. "Warning, Do not try this yourself. BP has perfected his flip-flop hiking skills with years of practice. Do not attempt to flip-flop your way up dragontail without certified professional instruction and years of practice". No, but a response like "You wore SANDALS?? Are you DENSE?" would have gotten the point across.

For example, I have read posts on this site about a winter ascent of a route near cascade pass and a first ascent in the coast range. Both times, plenty of congrats, great job, totally awesome. Never mind that the climbers in both cases seemed to ignore serious objective hazards, as well as the advice of very experienced climbers. Sure, they did the routes, but they needlessly risked their lives for no reason in both cases. To me, that's "Bad Style" and should be criticized as such.

Maybe I should have asked "How could you be so stupid?" in my original post, which was considerably less acerbic than the one above. Maybe if someone had said "Climbing DT in SANDALS is a dmub idea." in response to BobbyPeru, instead of , these folks might have got the hint that maybe it's a bad idea. There is too much "circle-jerking" going on around here.

I posted a response to a TR in the Alpine Lakes section, but it got deleted, because, it seems, IMHO, it was actually CRITICAL of the STYLE of a recent ascent of Serpentine Arete. I'm not about to give someone a pat on the back for: 1) Climbing SA in mid-September with SANDALS for the descent. 2) Having "no idea" how to get off the mountain. 3) Starting the climb at 9am, with four people, given the fact that the sun sets this time of year at 8:30pm. 4) Taking 12h on a route that is frequently done C2C. 5) Enduring a forced bivy, with sandals on. 6) Having to RAP on the descent to Ass-guard pass. 7) Still can't feel toes after five days. This is about some of the stupidest shit I've ever heard of. The value of the ascent, to me, is negated by the STYLE. Dragontail is a MOUNTAIN, not a roadside crag. MOUNTAINS are DANGEROUS, and should be treated at all times, and by everyone, as such. Better to have stayed home and read "Freedom of the Hills" than to head into the mountains with NO CLUE and risk serious but preventable injury for NO REASON. And to have this criticism DELETED by a moderator? Isn't this board here to IMPROVE the climbing community? Or should we instead continue to uncritically accept and endore this kind of STYLE? These guys, who I don't know, but assume are nice guys, got LUCKY.

I found Scott and his company to be quite pleasant and professional. We slept in, drove to the pass, bailed with the weather, and ended up behind Scott, et al. As I recollect, they were climbing the first few pitches so that his clients could safely practice jugging. Snooze, you loose, my loss. Sysiphus, as I understand it, was initially put up so that Scott could have an easy route to guide, away from other climbers at the pass, but turned out to be harder than expected. He also put up a "Guide's Route" on the way up the pass (memory fails me as to which outcrop it's on), another option for getting guides/clients away from the masses. If only MORE guides behaved in a similar professional, polite, and conscientious fashion.

Even youngsters can enjoy "Steel Net" climbing! Just drap the net over your local climbed-out choss heap, or even a just-beyond-the-wilderness-boundary choss heap, and "climb on"!! And no more tired old bolting debates! Just clip in where ever you feel like it!

I like the close-up of the sloper that's all cracked around the edges, like it could blow off any minute.

Bouldering is neither.

1) Too many know-it-alls. 2) This website.

"I don't use the word 'hero' much, but you...are the greatest hero...in American history."

You lead on the rope doubled up, then simul when it's all paid out. The leader carries a double rack. You can link pitches together like mad. 70-->50m rappels, and you don't need to bring any tat.

I'm thinking of switching from one 70m x 9.2mm to one 140m x 8.1mm for longer alpine routes. Climb with it doubled up, huge rap advantage. THought?

Shameless self-promotion. Why should anyone send YOU info for a "book" that "isn't going to be published"? It sounds like all you're trying to do is pad your own dossier and scoop lines.

The best way to avoid this type of accident is to not go rock climbing, but if you do, don't fall and hit the ground with your head.

I am SHOCKED!! Good try, though.

Nice job. Good to see you made it through, desite the presence of such a dark totem.